Start capacitor question/symptoms

[Rick Moyer]

Thinking this is my problem but not sure.

Scenario: I don't do much woodworking in the summer, but had a visitor the other day and was showing him my shop. He asked about the cyclone (Grizzly G0440) and I was going to demonstrate, but it wouldn't start (worked the last time I used it). When I tried to start it, it would seemingly try to engage but mostly just clicked. I then noticed the bin was over full and suspected I had sawdust up into the cylinder and maybe fan, thereby blocking the fan from spinning. This was not the case however as only the tube into the drum was partially full. I emptied the drum, cleaned up and tried again, but same thing. What happens is, if I keep pushing the start button I can hear the fan turning slowly but the motor doesn't seem to come to life.

Is there anything it might be other than a start cap, or do you think I should just get a new cap and replace it?
Will call Grizzly when I get a chance tomorrow or next week, just thought someone here would know.

[scott spencer]

The cap is the first place I'd look, but the centrifugal switch could also be stuck.

[John R Green]

Same symptoms with planer last week.
New staring capacitor ( $13 ) fixed it

[Steve Baumgartner]

Depends on the kind of controls. Does it have a magnetic control box or just an on-off switch? If the latter, it sure sounds like the cap or centrifugal switch. But if the former, the starter may have gone flakey.

[Rick Moyer]

The cap is the first place I'd look, but the centrifugal switch could also be stuck.

This is several months later and not fixed yet, but I don't do any woodworking in the summer so it hasn't been a priority. Anyway, I replaced the start capacitor with new, still not it, so I replaced the contactor (which I mistakenly thought was the centrifugal switch) as it was sparking a bit, but still no go. {Side note: Glenn Bradley, I think you said your contactor was sparking before.}
So, if I am correct, I need to access the centrifugal switch at the motor. Is this in the square box on the side, or do I remove the motor end cover to get to it? I believe that will solve my issue.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Rick,

The centrifugal switch is located in the motor. Typically you can access it by removing an end cover on the motor. They look like a set of points used in older automobile ignition systems. If you have ever worked on older car engines, you can burnish the contacts on the centrifugal switch just like you could burnish the contacts on a set of ignition points.

The centrifugal switch closes when the saw and it's motor is turned off. In the closed position, the start capacitor is placed in the circuit. When power is applied and the motor starts to spin up to speed, typically once it reaches 75% of normal operating speed, the switch opens removing the starting capacitor from the motor circuit. Sawdust can prevent it from opening, burned/pitted contacts can prevent it from opening and sawdust can prevent it from closing.

Good luck!

[Rick Moyer]

Thanks Ken. It's not a saw but a cyclone, but same principle applies. I didn't have a chance to look there yet, but I have one coming just in case it needs replaced as they are relatively cheap.

[David Masters]

I had a similar problem with a Grizzly jointer where I had to replace the centrifugal switch. Grizzly sent me a document (ref_Centrifugal Switch R&R.pdf) that provides instructions for replacement/adjustment of the switch. Call Grizzly and request a copy. If they can't find the document, PM me and I'll send you a copy.

[Charles Lent]

When you work on the centrifugal switch you should also make sure that the flyweights and the plastic collar on the motor shaft can move easily. Frequently during inactivity the motor shaft can develop surface rust that prevents this collar from moving so it doesn't activate the centrifugal switch contacts. Make sure the contacts are clean, but also make sure that the flyweights and collar can move freely.

Charley

[Rick Moyer]

Thanks Charles. I will do. I had it open this morning to see what I could see but nothing appears too bad. The new switch should be here Saturday so we'll see.
Just so I'm clear, the contact points should be normally closed, then opened by the motor spinning at sufficient speed to pull the points away from each other, right? When I first opened up the motor housing I believe the points were open, but after taking out the switch and re-installing it they were closed. Still didn't respond as it should. Yes I did mark the switch placement before removing it so I DID put it in the exact same place it was. Hopefully the new switch will be the fix.

[Charles Lent]

Yes, the switch should be closed when the motor is stopped. If the collar sticks it can keep the switch contacts from closing as the motor is turned off. Then the motor won't start the next time because the starting capacitor and start winding is not in the circuit. Every time the motor is turned off and it slows to a stop you should be able to hear the switch close as the motor slows to around 200 rpm. If you don't hear the click, the motor won't start the next time you try it. I clean the shaft where the collar slides with fine emery cloth and then wipe some light oil on the surface of it with my finger. You don't need much. WD-40 will work too, but don't spray it on the shaft. Use your finger to apply it. Do this and make sure the switch contact is clean, then re-assemble the motor and try it a few times. I think your problem will be gone. If not, I would also replace the starting capacitor.

Charley

[Rick Moyer]

Stupidly I thought a new centrifugal switch contained the contact plate too. (it doesn't). So I suspect my problem is the contact plate, because the new centrifugal switch doesn't resolve the problem. Contact plate(s) on the way. the contacts seem to be worn kinda badly.

[Rick Moyer]

Great, I just got an e-mail from Grizzy saying this part (contact plate) is out of stock until around December 15th. No cyclone until then I guess. Gonna make short notice for any Christmas presents I planned. With my allergies I probably won't be doing any woodworking without the cyclone functioning.

[Rick Moyer]

Well I called Grizzly tech again, and after further testing it appears that my circuit board is the issue. I am able to get the cyclone to proper operation by holding in the "H" shaped switch on the controller, which means the power is not coming thru the circuit board to the controller. I should have been more diligent in testing before I ordered some things but I got impatient. At least the circuit board is supposedly in stock so I should be back running in a week or less.
Quick shout out to "Bruce" at Grizzly Muncy who was very helpful in diagnosing the problem. Thanks Bruce if you happen to see this!

[Rick Moyer]

New circuit board solved the problem! $130 later, as the board is no longer sold separately. I had to buy the whole switch box.
Thanks for those who offered their help.