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Thread: DEWALT DWP611PK for use with a shelf pin jig?

  1. #1
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    DEWALT DWP611PK for use with a shelf pin jig?

    Before I put together a jig for it, is the DEWALT DWP611PK a good choice for making shelf pin holes?
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  2. #2
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    With the plunge base and a spiral bit, yes!


  3. #3
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    Very good choice. It is a nice, light router to be plunging a lot of small holes with. And has a pretty effective DC adaptor.

    I built a such a jig for my PC 895. Not a huge router, but after a couple hundred holes it seems like it is made out of lead. I've got a DW611PK and I'll be adapting the jig to the DW next time I need to do a set of cabinets.

  4. #4
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    Cool!
    That's just what I'd hoped.
    My only other plunge base is for my Freud 1700 & I think that's too much router for the task.

    I was concerned the little trim router wouldn't be enough.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  5. #5
    The 611 is really not a trim router, it is a 1 1/4 compact router and it has some good power.

    The plunge base is set up for a bushing so it will make a good shelf hole driller.

    This is a little shelf hole jig I made and it works just great with the 611.

    91796523.bzQO6TWT.P1133625.jpg

  6. #6
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    Bill,
    Would the 611 be enough in your opinion for doing half blind dovetails w/the Harbor Freight DT jig?

    I also have an older Craftsman 1.75HP as well as a PC 690 I could use so it's no big deal if the 611 would be pushing things.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post
    Would the 611 be enough in your opinion for doing half blind dovetails w/the Harbor Freight DT jig?
    From what I've heard about that jig (and the other cheap DT jigs)...anything is enough because you'll try it once or twice and throw the @#$% thing against the wall. Apparently they are quite fussy to set up.


  8. #8
    The only caveat I have is that half blind DT's have to be routed in a single pass. On thicker or harder stock, this will exert a good deal of torque on a 1/4" shank bit. You can alleviate this by making an initial pass with a straight bit, and then following with the dt bit. But that's a pain.

    On 1/2" drawer sides in something like plywood or poplar, I don't think it's an issue.

  9. #9
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    I like the chamfers on that jig, Bill. Good thinking.

    Rick P

  10. #10
    I bought an 8mm collet for my 611 so I could use a standard RH boring bit to do 5mm holes. Elaire Corp.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    I like the chamfers on that jig, Bill. Good thinking.

    Rick P
    Thanks, it makes things go a lot faster.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Neely View Post
    I bought an 8mm collet for my 611 so I could use a standard RH boring bit to do 5mm holes. Elaire Corp.
    Tell me more. Why is an 8 mm-shank boring bit better than a 5 mm spiral carbide bit for a straight plunge cut? Is the tip of the boring bit ground differently?

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    Tell me more. Why is an 8 mm-shank boring bit better than a 5 mm spiral carbide bit for a straight plunge cut? Is the tip of the boring bit ground differently?
    It's a spur point bit used in 32mm boring machines, it does cut very cleanly and the cost isn't high for either piece.

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