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Thread: Pole Barn 40X64X16

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009

    Pole Barn 40X64X16

    Signed a contract yesterday with S&L Builders out of Indiana for a 40X64X16 Pole Barn with a 10X24 porch. Build date August 18, 2014.

    Plan to install Pex for raidant floor heat. Concrete slab 5" thick. Also doing 1.5" closed cell foam under the pad.

    Built on Laminated posts in ground. Will have two 14X14 doors, 3 ped doors, 4 double hung windows, wainscoting, 12" overhangs all around, and double bubble on walls and ceiling and closure strips on walls. Should outlast me.

    Time for some grading/site prep.

    Pretty excited.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
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    661
    Sounds great! The 16' height will be excellent if you want to park an RV or camper.

    Planning to finish with insulation and drywall? That bubble insulation stuff won't do much for you in the middle of winter or the middle of summer. Been there, done that... ;-)

    Insulated garage doors too? Worth the extra expense now if you ever plan to finish the interior and heat it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Bloomington, IL
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    Yes insulated garage doors day one and insulation and finish inside as I can afford it but before too much is moved in.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Anchorage, Alaska, USA
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    34
    I'd suggest using some foam around the perimeter of the slab so you have an unbroken thermal break between the slab and exterior. Put down the foam, cover with vapor barrier, surround with foam. I think you'll be glad you did. I used 4" of foam under my slab and R36 ICFs with an additional 4" of foam on the exterior of my foundation wall (surrounding the slab. I live in a colder climate but my shop is less than half as big as yours will be. I used R42 SIPS for walls and R68 SIPS for ceiling insulation. With 16' height you'll need something to keep the heat in too.

    We're all envious of the room you'll have!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Chappell Hill, Texas
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    4,741
    Congrats!! Will it be all woodworking or other activities too?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    SE Montana
    Posts
    72
    Just a quick thought/observation. I was told by three different contactors when I did my shop, that I needed at least 6 inches to put pex in for radiant heat and 7-8 inches if I was going to drive on it. I would hate to see your floor be messed up from the start. I am in South Eastern MT so I wouldn't think our weather is much different (to cause the difference)

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
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    I'm in southern Indiana and I am just finishing my pole barn heating system. 5" concrete floor for pex was what I used and none of the pex installers recommended more. If you moved dirt you need to make sure it is well compacted before pouring the concrete. I did a 2 foot deep x 12 inches wide footer and put in 2" styrofoam as a break. My installer highly recommended a specific thermal blanket that I let him use (May not have been best choice on my part). Of course the concrete will need to be pumped in and I made them hand trowel the expansion slots. Didn't want a chance of nipping the pex with a concrete saw. I did put the bubble insulation in the ceiling one layer. I am installing R13 fiberglass over that. I put R19 in the walls, but filled all of the correlated holes with the can foam. I have 7/16 OSB on the walls. I am doing a drop ceiling (12 foot). I got the panels free from a demolition company redoing a old Borders building. My previous shop I had the outlets installed in the walls (no foam in the correlations) and there was always cold air blowing in through these. I am having my outlets external (wires only behind walls and external conduit when necessary).
    If I was to build again I would install 2" foam instead of the insulation blanket, I would spray foam the walls and ceiling 2" and then blow insulation for the remainder.
    My previous shop was overhead propane heated. I could heat it up quickly, but had cold feet as there was no insulation in the foundation ( I didn't build that one). My biggest problem was air leaks and not insulation value ( electrical outlets, switches, doors, etc.). Of course better insulation value is always a positive and wish I had more. I am just now getting everything hooked up, so it will be this winter to see how this works.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Burch View Post
    Congrats!! Will it be all woodworking or other activities too?
    I have metalworking tools and woodworking tools and CNC versions of both. Its all shop. Think my own personal MakerSpace/TechShop.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Boston
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    1,740
    Consider a separate metal shop. Wood and metal don't mix well.
    Don

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210
    Congrats on your new soon to be shop! Sounds awesome and I would be excited too.
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
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    3,062
    Sweeeet! Green with envy! Congrats!!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
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    On Monday I took down my existing meterbase and overhead weatherhead and conduit and lines to main house panel. I then installed a 400amp meterbase and two200amp disconnects immediately off of it. Then routed new wire into main pane in house. Also installed a second ground rod and new ground wires. The second disconnect will be where I connect the new pole barn too after it is built.

    Also got some good deals on romex, L6-30 recepticals, Liftmaster jackshaft garage door openers, and some HID commercial bay lights. Also ordered the URD services entrance wire that will be in a trench to the new shop.

    Looking to get site prep done next week.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Jarvie View Post
    Consider a separate metal shop. Wood and metal don't mix well.
    It is sized like 3 shops so it will be just fine Going to physically seperate them with space.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
    Posts
    661
    You'll love the Liftmaster jack screw openers - ridiculously simple to install, quiet and reliable. I've got one on the 16x10 overhead door to my shop and can't imagine using anything else.

  15. #15
    Mike, do you plan to post pics of the build? We'll be watching!

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