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Thread: Pole Barn 40X64X16

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    8/18 is my build date
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Congratulations Mike! Sounds like a great shop build! Enjoy the process.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,622
    Pretty country to build a shop in. The corn looks great.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    Going to be a record year for corn all over IL and prob IN and Iowa as well.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Haubstadt (Evansville), Indiana
    Posts
    1,294
    Mike

    Beautiful spot. It is great to finally get the workshop built.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    S&L builders start tomorrow on the building if all goes as planned. Wish me luck.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    Last edited by Mike Heidrick; 08-14-2014 at 6:05 PM.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Mike, congrats on your new shop! It ought to be great when you're finished. A few comments and suggestions.

    First, I concur with Larry's comments re the Pex. I ran mine on staggered spacing (closer loops to the outside) and have been very pleased with it. Be sure that you have a good, unbroken vapor barrier underneath the shop too.

    Second, I have what appears to be the same MH light fixtures in my shop, and like them a lot. Your's are low bay fixtures, which is exactly what you want as they throw light both down as well as to the side. Mine are installed at 15'6" above the floor, and I have twelve fixtures inside of a 50' x 60' room (and it is very well lit!). In areas where I do handwork, I have T8 flourescent fixtures suspended about 4' below the ceiling.

    Third, have you considered running conduit underneath the floor? One thing that I did in my shop that have been a real lifesaver is that every wall section is fed by a 3" conduit coming up from below. The conduits run from every wall and come up into a common chase mounted below my load centers. By running conduit under the slab I saved a lot on wiring as opposed to dropping down from above (shorter runs), and it allows me to have a built in chase to pull additional wiring anywhere that I need it within the shop.

    Re how they will get the concrete on top of the pex, they will either ring the slab with concrete trucks with extended chutes or they will use a concrete pump. Be sure that they pull the pex up into the slab so that it is totally encased with concrete instead of underneath the slab. In my instance, for my 6" slab I used 2" slab bolsters to hold the rebar, and tied the pex underneath the rebar so that I have 4" of clearance from the top of the pex to the top of my slab. That way I can sink an anchor 3-1/2" w/o worrying about drilling into tubing.

    Be sure to sleeve your pex where it comes out of the slab, else it may break at the slab in the future.

    Best of success to you on your new shop!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    Scott you PM is full.

    Crew worked till 7pm last night and got the double top 2X12s installed.

    I bought two rolls of 20'X100' 10mill poly. My plan is to lay that down on the pea gravel and tyvek tape it together and maybe over lay another sheet across the middle seam and tape it. Then put 1.5" XPS extruded poly styrene (foamular) on that, then the mesh concrete panels and then twist tie the pex in staggerd loops on the panels. I will have the pex sleeved as well.

    Does that sound about right. I am totally trusting what I have read from others.

    I bought a 2001 140,000 natural gas fired water boiler (80% efficient) off CL and am considering using an extra water heater (I convinced the guy it was part of the setup he was selling - he was taking it out of a house that would be demolished) I have as a holding tank too. The boiler has a taco circ pump, expansion tank, relief valve and pressure and temp gauge on it and an auto flue setup for the vent. Thats what I plan to heat with. I need to get a thermostat and will have a piece of pex in the floor for an in floor temp sensor.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heidrick View Post
    Scott you PM is full.

    Crew worked till 7pm last night and got the double top 2X12s installed.

    I bought two rolls of 20'X100' 10mill poly. My plan is to lay that down on the pea gravel and tyvek tape it together and maybe over lay another sheet across the middle seam and tape it. Then put 1.5" XPS extruded poly styrene (foamular) on that, then the mesh concrete panels and then twist tie the pex in staggerd loops on the panels. I will have the pex sleeved as well.

    Does that sound about right. I am totally trusting what I have read from others.

    I bought a 2001 140,000 natural gas fired water boiler (80% efficient) off CL and am considering using an extra water heater (I convinced the guy it was part of the setup he was selling - he was taking it out of a house that would be demolished) I have as a holding tank too. The boiler has a taco circ pump, expansion tank, relief valve and pressure and temp gauge on it and an auto flue setup for the vent. Thats what I plan to heat with. I need to get a thermostat and will have a piece of pex in the floor for an in floor temp sensor.
    Mike, I've emptied my PM box - sorry bout that!

    Sounds like you're headed down the right path. My only comment is to suggest that you use slab bolsters under your wire. Many installers simply lift up on the wire during installation, but the problem with that is that you have inconsistent wire spacing in the slab. I have seem a lot of slabs after they were demolished and noted that on many the wire was at the bottom of the slab - in effect useless from a reinforcing perspective.

    In my instance, I used a 1-1/2" slab bolster with the pex tied to the bottom of the reinforcing wire (instead of the top), so that I did not have to worry about drilling an anchor into a pex line down the road.

    Sounds like you got a good deal on that boiler package! The extra water heater won't hurt; if nothing else it provides you with more thermal mass of stored water. You will want to consider adding an air eliminator to your system as well.

    I would suggest that you place your thermostat sensor a ways away from where the pex tubes exit your slab. In my instance, that is the warmest portion of the entire slab due to the high volume of tubes congregating in one location.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    IMG_233948789611711.jpg


    Today's progress. Where do you buy slab bolsters? Also how much do you use per panel?
    Last edited by Mike Heidrick; 08-15-2014 at 11:55 PM.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Slab bolsters can be purchased at a concrete supply store. Usually places that sell rebar will also have bolsters. Spacing is determined by the size of the voids in your mesh/rebar mat - usually no greater than 4'. There are charts in the Code books that provide guidance based upon your type and size of reinforcement. You can also but them online and have them shipped in.

    I prefer the SBU type for distributing the load and not punching into the insulation.
    Last edited by Scott T Smith; 08-16-2014 at 6:39 AM.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    Today we got vented overhangs, a roof and bubble wrap under it, the porch started, windows framed, and pedestrian doors framed. I got a free (freeebie in that cool voice) window upgrade because they forgot them on the semi last Thursday and Menards only had 4 windows in the 36X60 low E argon insulated. Also the porch trusses were for a 12X24 porch so we are getting a 12' porch ceiling depth as a freebie too. Will add to concrete now though. Also raising the porch a bit to account for space needed for the larger windows.

    Here was 5:30pm on day 3 - They worked till 7pm again tonight.

    I also just came in. Johnny and I got the gas line and two cat6 lines to existing shop in conduit and 90% buried.

    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,622
    That's looking great! You must be getting pumped!
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Yorkville,IL
    Posts
    265
    Where are the pictures?Is it all done?
    Jaromir

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