The Chair - Towards the Round

[Derek Cohen]

It's been about 4 months since I last worked on The Chair. Life happens. All good - just very busy.


So I was back in the shop this weekend, and here is a record of the work done. Lots of pictures and just enough description so you don't fall asleep


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...sTheRound.html


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Adam Cruea]

Looks good thus far, Mr. Derek!

Those finger joints look to be a PITA to match up and make. Not sure I'd have the patience for something like that.

BTW, nice spoke shave.

[Frederick Skelly]

Coming along great Derek. Thanks for the detailed step-by-step pics. That gave me some insights on methods of work that I think I can apply elsewhere to improve my joinery.

Looking forward to your next installment,
Fred

[David Weaver]

Difficult!

I hope this chair ends up getting a lot of butt miles when all is said and done.

[Derek Cohen]

Looks good thus far, Mr. Derek!

Those finger joints look to be a PITA to match up and make. Not sure I'd have the patience for something like that.

BTW, nice spoke shave.

Hi Adam

I must admit that I was mentally exhausted after the first arm, and decided to take a few weeks off (and then other events intervened). I am not surprised that no one else has tried this. They are wiser than I.

The spokeshaves used were HNT Gordon (flat and round), and LN Boggs (flat and round). I could take a deeper cut with the Boggs, while the Gordon (with its higher cutting angle) left a finer finish where the grain reversed. The Boggs are wonderful in the hand.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pat Barry]

I must admit that I was mentally exhausted after the first arm, and decided to take a few weeks off (and then other events intervened). I am not surprised that no one else has tried this.

Hi Derek, I wondered how difficult this task was going to be and after seeing the efforts you had to put forth and the attention to detail you needed to create these joints I am convinced that you are certainly a joinery master. I am sure that the painstaking approach you followed was the key to your success. Congratulations!

None the less, I do expect that you may have had a tiny gap or two to deal with, did you decide to backfill those with epoxy / sawdust or just leave them? Either way its purely a cosmetic detail and won't detract from the ultimate functionality or appearance and you will probably be the only one to even notice that unless you point it out to them.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Pat

Funny you should mention this

When it comes time to glue the parts together I thought that I would use West Systems epoxy (because it is gap filling) and mix in a little colour to disguise any gaps that may be present in the finger joins. I have saved up sawdust from sanding the legs, however I think that this will turn out darker than the surrounding wood. Any thoughts and suggestions?


Regards from Perth


Derek

[Adam Cruea]

The spokeshaves used were HNT Gordon (flat and round), and LN Boggs (flat and round). I could take a deeper cut with the Boggs, while the Gordon (with its higher cutting angle) left a finer finish where the grain reversed. The Boggs are wonderful in the hand.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I hear that. I played with the spokeshaves while at LN's showroom. They're wonderful tools, very easy to use and set-up, and a simple delight to shape with. So much so, that I bought one of the curved spokeshaves on a whim.

[Brian Holcombe]

Derek, looking good! My sawdust and glue mixtures always turn out darker than the base wood. I usually crush up end grain shavings and use those.

[Pat Barry]

Derek, looking good! My sawdust and glue mixtures always turn out darker than the base wood. I usually crush up end grain shavings and use those.

Interesting - why would you use the end grain shavings?

[Brian Holcombe]

They fall apart into a heavy dust with ease and are easier to collect without impurities than sanding dust.