Straight Line Ripping With A Skilsaw

[Kent A Bathurst]

Depending on what the board looks like, and what I am trying to end up with:

1. Edge is reasonably in-line - jointer. Especially efficient for shorter pieces of stock, where I have rough-cut [ie - oversize cut] component parts. A pain on long boards.

2. Big variation from narrow to wide end - this happens often when I buy a flitch. The butt end gets a lot wider than the narrow end. I draw a quick line, and run it through the BS.

3. I am cutting for grain orientation on components, and I won't be following the general shape of the board. I am getting components out of the board at a angle. Sketch parts, and go to BS and something for crosscut [hand saw; bayonet; circle saw.

4. Multiple boards that are of the same general thickness; parts will run with the board's shape; too much edge variation for jointer: I have a sliding jig with destaco clamps that I run through the TS. Clamp positioning is adjustable - just that it's a pain to adjust for big variations in thickness.

[Roy Harding]

Sliding table saw. Clamp it to slider, run it through blade, done.

This only works on pieces up to 7' as that the is extent of my slider.

Edited to add: I just re-read the original question - before I had the slider, I used an aluminum straight edge with my Skil saw, setting the lumber either on scrap planks, or styrofoam sheets on the floor.

[Lee Schierer]

Any pictures? I'm not understanding how this works. Thanks.

Here's a sketch that hopefully will help. Note the shim in front of the tab on the aluminum tube to keep the board from rotating during the cut.
ripping.jpg
You position the board to get the uneven edge against the aluminum tube which rides on the fence providing a straight edge. The blade rips the other edge parallel to the fence. Once the cut is complete you have a board with one straight edge. Flip it over and remove the aluminum tube, readjust the fence and rip the other side and the board has two straight edges.

This is the same principle as a shooting board or sliding table without the surface under the piece being cut.

[Ken Andersen]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

I keep a 6 inch (or so) wide strip of 1/2 inch plywood with a factory edge handy for this purpose. To cut a straight edge on a board, tack the plywood to the top of the board with the factory edge overhanging the opposite side of the board and parallel to the desired cut. Set your saw fence suitably and run the factory edge against the fence.

I use either finishing nails or small screws for tacking, placing these in the waste at each end of the board.

[John McClanahan]

What caught my interest is how simple this could be built. 3 straight 2x4s and some 2x2s is all thats needed. The 2x4 used as the edge guide could be jointed on one edge. Sitting it on sawhorses or even on the ground. After use it can be stored on end.

For a weekend warrior like me, this rip guide could make rough sawn lumber easier to get started milling.

John

[Kent A Bathurst]

Sliding table saw..

OK, Roy - you officially suck.

Don't we all wish we had that option? I sure as heck do.....................

[Kevin Bourque]

I build a temporary set up using saw horses and metal studs. Pretty much what this guy did only nothing is permanent. The metal studs are perfectly straight and not affected at all by moisture. Plus they store away easily.

[Michael Weber]

I keep a 6 inch (or so) wide strip of 1/2 inch plywood with a factory edge handy for this purpose. To cut a straight edge on a board, tack the plywood to the top of the board with the factory edge overhanging the opposite side of the board and parallel to the desired cut. Set your saw fence suitably and run the factory edge against the fence.

I use either finishing nails or small screws for tacking, placing these in the waste at each end of the board.

This ^^^^^^^^^^^