Straight Line Ripping With A Skilsaw

[John McClanahan]

I found this on You Tube. Looks like a novel way to get a straight rip cut with a simple power tool. What do you think?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkBsNvEHV30


John

[Greg Peterson]

Interesting. Great setup for a shipwright. And like he said, the bench is designed to do one thing; save time. I suppose you could scale it down to furniture makers dimensions, but it would still take up a lot of room in a hobbyist shop. This bench works because the scale of the work requires a different approach. Even an Oliver jointer would be hard pressed to be as quick, easy and effective as this bench.

I like it, and definitely is different way to approach the task.

[scott spencer]

Pretty neat....and simple.

[Andrew Kertesz]

That was interesting... I was surprised at his feed rate, looked like it was pretty fast to me. Anybody recognize that blade?

[Bill Huber]

That was interesting... I was surprised at his feed rate, looked like it was pretty fast to me. Anybody recognize that blade?

It looks like a Dewalt, has that yellow edge on is.

[Peter Kelly]

Eastern White Cedar so he can go pretty quickly.

[Al Launier]

I was also surprised at how fast he made the cut & was further surprised that the board, especially the shorter ones, din't need to be clamped. No apparent shift of the boards at all. Very efficient setup indeed!

[Mark W Pugh]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

[Greg Peterson]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

Jointer is the tool of choice for creating a straight, square edge.

[Mark W Pugh]

Jointer is the tool of choice for creating a straight, square edge.

No jointer here. Other ideas?

[Clint Baxter]

A track saw is an effective way to straighten an edge. I used my TS-75 to straightline rip 8/4 maple boards for my bench top. I do have a long rail that allows me to do 8' boards.

Clint

[Shawn Pixley]

No tailed jointer here. First method - I have an aluminum guide the is over 8' between the two sections. I clamp it to the lumber and rip with my worm drive on sawhorses. Joint with #7 plane after.

Second method - I built a jig for my tablesaw. Run it through. Joint with #7. Typically this will be on stock 6' or less. Depending upon the project, I break down stock before straight line rip.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on an edge guide and saw with a fixture to hold it on the track.

This layout is excellent for really heavy boards that won't shift, and seems designed for that task only.
I use the Eurekazone EZSmart guide with my ancient Porter cable circular saw.

It's rare that I cut anything so thick as shown in the video.

Recently, I've had excellent results with a portable jigsaw running the Bosch blades.

http://www.boschtools.com/Products/A...d=T101BF#specs
Jigsaw blades will deflect in ways that circular saw blades won't, if fed too quickly
but the finish quality on both sides is excellent.

[Lee Schierer]

So, how do you guys make the first straight edge on your lumber? I don't have room for another machine, so what is the easiest and cheapest way to do it?

I use a 6' long, 1" aluminum tube against my ts fence and the board against the tube. I shim between the tube and the board. The shims equalize the pressure on the tube as I make a rip cut on the free edge.

[Mark W Pugh]

I use a 6' long, 1" aluminum tube against my ts fence and the board against the tube. I shim between the tube and the board. The shims equalize the pressure on the tube as I make a rip cut on the free edge.

Any pictures? I'm not understanding how this works. Thanks.