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Thread: Kitchen cabinets

  1. #16
    I'm in the middle of making kitchen cabinets and using 1/2" ply, but it's not PF. Anywhere that the cabinets will be screwed into studs, I've got a second layer of ply. All of my joinery is glued dado joints (which makes for a tough time with glue-up).

    I went with 1/2" because I don't want overly heavy cabinet cases. Mine are face frame type with 1 1/4" overlay doors, so there's no issue with mounting hinges (FFs are full length dado onto the cabinets, too).

    If I was worried about it with 1/2", I'd just design the cabinets so I could have double thickness in mounting areas and do something to make sure the shelves won't sag.

    If I were trying to make them fast instead, I'd probably just use 3/4" material and screws (I'm not trying to make them quickly).

  2. #17
    It is likely the cost savings (not the weight) that drives production companies to use 1/2".

    For the one-time builder like you and me, that cost difference (esp in a small kitchen) will be insignificant compared to the cost of the doors.

    I think using 3/4" makes attachment to the walls simpler and gives you more peace of mind for storing heavy plates on the uppers.

    How are you planning to attach faceframes? I like the additional 1/4" purchase for pins or pocket screws.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA
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    1,311
    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    I'm curious why you feel FF cabs cannot be hung one at a time? I do it all the time.
    FF boxes can be hung separately and still looks good if a single face frame covers all the boxes.

    Steve

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    2,340
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Peterson View Post
    FF boxes can be hung separately and still looks good if a single face frame covers all the boxes.

    Steve

    If properly constructed, individually hung FF boxes look great. There's a limit how on much weight the installer(s) can hoist and on long runs it may be necessary to break the install into 2 or more separate units. I don't favor hanging multiple boxes and then attaching a single FF later....there are simply too many variables in play to expect a good alignment (precise reveals) IMO. In addition, I attach my FF's using tongue and groove joinery, which is useful in squaring up any minor warping in the boxes, pulling them perfectly square. This method would not work for me where multiple boxes are hung and a single FF added later. When joining individual FF boxes, I'll typically use a sufficient door overlay on one of the cabinets to cover the seam. And I always pull adjacent FF's together tight with trim head screws, located behind the hinge hardware where possible.

    Then again maybe I'm just a hack, but I've never had a complaint about FF seams.

    If I were building 1/2" cabs I'd think about 1/8" deep dados glued/screwed for the boxes, and 1/4" FF dados to ensure everything is squared up. I'd use a 1/4" back dadoed 1/2" recessed from the back then attach 1/2" hardwood nailers into the recess, top and bottom, glued and screwed.
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  5. #20
    I am finishing up a full kitchen cabinet build - all my cases are 3/4" including the backs. I like the extra strength of the thicker ply and with 3" fastcap screws to hang them from the studs they are burly. I have a corner cabinet upper and to install the door hinge I had to sit in the cabinet to drive the screws - even my 200# didn't deflect it at all. My design is full overlay - frameless and all cases are assembled with just domino's and glue.

  6. #21
    Lots of good ideas to consider. thanks everyone. We may use a hybrid of the various suggestions. This will be our winter project this year.
    Hello, My name is John and I am a toolaholic

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