Hand plane & Walnut question

[David Weaver]

Actually, I see what you're talking about. I didn't notice it at first. Those are embedded in the post for some reason.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

To add something at least somewhat related to thread, I love that box, Jonathan - it's purty as all get-out! A very sharp and very finely set plane with a chip breaker could do that job, but the changing grain directions can be a bit of a hassle, in my experience. The chip breaker can help avoid tear-out, but since you're working across the grain rather than with or against it, in my experience, even if you get a decently smooth surface, you get some uneven lustre however you approach it with a plane - I wouldn't mind using a plane to level the surface if need be (although I'd try to get close) but I'd probably tackle final pre-finish steps with either a sander or a card scraper. But with grain going perpendicular like that, I imagine even if I went with a card scraper, I might end up hitting it with very fine grit paper to get an even sheen across the whole thing with certain finishes.

[David Weaver]

I would actually ask a question about those links in the tech support forum on here. IIRC, Keith mentioned that there was some part of vbulletin that allowed (and generated) that type of linking. It may be SMC itself creating those links.

[Judson Green]

Oh ok! Thanks. I'll try it on one of my older planes and see if it makes a difference. If it does, I'll do it on my new one.

I've found that the old ones don't need it as they've already been "broken in" for lack of a better term. Though I did have a vintage 4 that seemed to leave a mark due to a burr or something in the mouth area.

Also I kinda is the front edge of the adjustable/moveable front sole and the leading non adjusting area that sort of turns into prongs if the mouth is closed up.

http://youtu.be/zQyjLV92224

Around minute 4. You don't need to worry about flatting your plane it the other stuff.

But maybe just use as is, you'll get a feel for it later.

[Jonathan Gennaro]

Ok I have one more question, but didn't want to have to make another thread for it. I have one more older planer that my dad gave me out of his garage. Its pretty beat up, but I can't figure out who made it or how old it is.. Is this plane worthy of restoring?

photo 1(1).JPG photo 2(1).JPG

[Judson Green]

For sure! Clean it up, sharpen and use it!

[Jonathan Gennaro]

For sure! Clean it up, sharpen and use it!

Any idea what brand it is?

[Judson Green]

Nope. Ya might wanna start another thread, it would get noticed and probably identified right away.

[Jim Koepke]

Any idea what brand it is?

Nope. Ya might wanna start another thread, it would get noticed and probably identified right away.

No idea on the brand here either.

It does look to be one of the less desirable models made of stamped steel.

jtk

[Winton Applegate]

There are levels of sharp.
There are levels of what a plane can do.

Takes time and practice to do the most with the least.
You are getting great advice and about anything David W. tells you is going to work and work fast and well. Especially for bevel down with a chip breaker.
I can’t really add to or argue with that.
I could argue with the whole chip breaker in total but I will be good and just be a cheerful clown.

Welcome to SawMill Creek. Near as I have found you can not do better as far as REAL advice.
Thanks for posting photos ! Nice work and I enjoyed seeing what you are working on.

Can I plane this lid on the very nice box?

Oh sure plane in toward the center from the sides.
Use a SHARP blade (see bellow SHARP as opposed to sharp or “sharp”)(stay away from schawrp).


schawrp : that is how the blade comes from the factory.
off a sander so scratches and kind of wire edged that is folded over some. On a microscopic level; you may or may not be able to see this with the un aided eye.

• the back not particularly flat though much, much, much flatter than say ten years ago.
• compared to your power planer blades it feels sharp . . . IF . . .for no other reason than the angle of the edge is skinnier.

“sharp” : that is after a newbie (or a cantankerous person who likes to talk more than listen) goes after the blade with all the power grinders and stones in the world OR the reverse just one stone and

• no jig . . . doesn’t matter . . . then strops the heck out of it on a soft leather strop with lots of some kind of magic dust on it.
• Oh it is blindingly sharp for sure. It cuts arm hair pretty much. Has that nice satisfying pull on the hair that is all so familiar.
• Problem is the edge isn’t smooth it is a polished saw tooth and the FACETS are all rounded over like a microscopic version of a cold chisel.
• Cuts wood well ? NAH DUDE, nah . . .

sharp : That is

• when you put the blade in a jig,
• go at it with a few stones ending with at least a 6000 and
• the blade geometry is generic say bedded at 45°, sharpening angle 30°, bevel down and
• cuts arm hair and MORE IMPORTANTLY end grain with the blade out of the plane and flat back on the wood.

• When taken through arm hair (which is pretty much meaningless when it comes to testing a plane blade's sharpness; I hope you are beginning to realize) a sharp edge is going to cut arm hair with no real pull feeling the hair just falls.

SHARP :

• The above stones and jig to 8000 at least. A nice quality 8000 stone not the cheepy off brand on sale close out. I have a bit lesser quality (and price), 10,000 that does not do as good a job as one of my nice quality 8000s.
• Keep the blade the hell away from the strops, at least soft strops. Strops are for carving chisels in my experience.
• The angle of the facet matches the wood hardness and grain characteristics.
• Read, plane, read, plane, buy more and different wood of all types, read, plane, read, plane.
• Repeat.
• The type of plane matches the wood, grain type and orientation.
• The plane is PROPERLY MADE and FETTLED if needed.
• Practice a lot
• Think a lot
• Feel and be sensitive to the steel type and what is happening at the edge. Both during sharpening and working the wood.
• Often at this stage less is more. (on the stones) Less pressure and fewer strokes and shorter strokes

Once you get the hang of using these you will get an edge that when brought to your arm hair . . . the hair will pull them selves out of your arm in fear and abandon ship (or abandon arm as it were) over the side before the blade ever arrives.

When the edge is tried on the wide face of one of your finger nails, with no effort and just the weight of the blade it sinks into the nail a tiny bit with a sickening ease.

For planing all these different sitchiations
you can just simplify things and chuck the bevel down and all those other steeper bedded planes etc., and get one O' these.
or its equivalent and lots of blades of various angles. You can vary the angles your self just buy the shallow angled ones and secondary bevel them.

ooops I was going to be good.
sorry, sorry . . .

That’s SHARP.
The advantage of all that ? No tear out, ever as far as I have found but I haven't spent any time with bird's eye maple, watch out of that one I hear.
AND
you can orient your boards for glued up panels with or against the grain for best appearance (to make the panel look as if it were a single board to help make the glue joints disappear ) rather than be at the mercy of planing with the grain.

And it's fun.

Well for me. People for the most part hate sharpening and just want to get back to woodworking.
Again David's advice is tops in that department.

PS: I almost forgot
SHARP

• is when (looking through a high magnification visor) you can shave curls off a single hair. Again basically meaningless but I find it more informative than just cutting off whole hairs and it tells me when the edge is dubbed or rounded and or I have not taken off the wire edge (won't cut curls if I flip the blade over).

I just love using this bullet thing.


PPS: on first blush it may seem I am undermining David's no jig, few stones and hard (firm) strop methods. I am not. There is an ultimate subtlety and minimum of fuss there that is truly great. If you can master it.