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Thread: I need a little help PLEASE!!!!

  1. #1

    I need a little help PLEASE!!!!

    I have been trying to cut coasters out of cork with a backing I got from lasersketch. I can engrave it perfectly but I can't cut through the 1/8" thick backing. Lasersketch said the use a 50w laser at 100% power and 5% speed with no problem. I try to cut it, no matter what power and EXTREMELY SLOW SPEED and all it does is pulverize the cork. They have no suggestions and neither do the tech guys from the laser dealer! Any ideas??

    I'm a newbie but I'm getting the hang of everything pretty well but this has me very frustrated.

    Engravelab V9
    CorelDraw Graphics Suite X7
    Boss 1630 60watt laser

  2. #2
    What kind of backing? I would think you should be able to cut through at 15 or whatever you cut 1/8" acrylic at, possibly a bit faster. In fact, can you cut some other 1/8" material still? Should rule out an optic problem or something.
    170 watt pulsed CO2 laser from Vytek, 48x96" table
    90 watt XY galvo from Vytek
    32" hydraulic paper cutter
    30" Potdevin heated glue applicator with matching presser.

  3. #3
    It's a pretty rigid plastic backing. Not as rigid as acrylic though. If you can think of those plastic mats people put on carpet under office chairs so they can roll easily. That's the best comparison I can make. If I try to cut from the cork side, I can get through the cork without too much damage but not even touch the backing. If I cut from the backing side first I can get through it but the cork is so charred that you can't handle it without getting your hands black, plus it doesn't get all the way through the cork anyway. I have tried incredibly slow speeds with varying levels of power and multiple passes. I'm to the point of trashing the ruined sheet, sending the other one back and getting a refund and just going with regular cork with no backing. It's really upsetting since laser sketch says they have no problem with their 50w laser getting through on one pass.

  4. #4
    I just thought of something. If I manually focus just a tiny bit CLOSER to the piece, and lower the power, could that possibly get a deeper cut without scorching the cork????

  5. #5
    Have you tried a low frequency? That's the only thing I can think. Are you using air assist? I believe in using air assist all the time, and high pressure air assist has been a benefit on difficult materials. You could also try multiple passes. First pass to get through the plastic and second pass to cut the cork. Doesn't happen often, but I've had a few materials that looked better with multiple lighter passes. But I agree, if they say it should cut, then it should. There is always the chance that something changed in manufacture, but they would likely have heard from others.
    170 watt pulsed CO2 laser from Vytek, 48x96" table
    90 watt XY galvo from Vytek
    32" hydraulic paper cutter
    30" Potdevin heated glue applicator with matching presser.

  6. #6
    My thinking is, that since you can mark the cork in such a low setting, there is no way to cut it without schorching the edges really badly. I mean you need just about 15 power 100 speed to make a deep black engraving.
    Henri Sallinen
    Cardboard designer with a Epilog Helix 24 60w + Gunnar Matboard Cutter + Heidelberg Windmill letterpress

  7. #7
    you are scorching the cork because too much power and too slow. try to make 2 or 3 passes with lower power/higher speed combination.

  8. #8
    I ran into the same problem not too long ago, although I did not get the cork from Lasersketch. I wound up having to do multiple passes at high power, and yes, I did burn the edges of the cork. Burnt cork stinks! Wound up lightly sanding the edges and left the pieces in a bag with cat liter over night. That pretty much got rid of the smell
    Live Oak Forge
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    Multiple and various other implements of destruction

  9. #9
    These cork and wood coasters were made with a 40W laser. I would recommend a fast speed and just enough power to break through in a single pass. Multiple passes will create flame-ups and char the surface. Use air assist too.

    IMG_1926.jpgIMG_1943.jpgIMG_1930.jpg

  10. #10
    Make your first cut focused on the surface at a speed/power that doesn't char, then try shifting your focus deeper into the piece so that your cutting power is working on the backing itself.
    Bruce Clumpner
    Brandon Services Laser Engraving
    Academy Commemoratives - Personalized Memorabilia for the U.S. Service Academies
    Irvine, CA
    -
    Epilog 75-watt Helix, 40-watt 18-Mini
    Started with Corel Draw V1 now feeling the pain of CorelDraw x7
    CS4 photoshop
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  11. #11
    Matt- the backing on your coasters is 3-ply, and the edges of the white are darkened, which tells me the backing isn't acrylic...?
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  12. #12
    Yea, Matt's example is almost certainly on 1/8" baltic birch painted white. I would guess it was done as two parts and assembled later.

    Cutting the cork by itself shouldn't be a problem. That may be the way to go. Sometimes it's easier to take the path that works rather than obsess over why something doesn't work when it should. (Though I generally do the latter myself.)
    170 watt pulsed CO2 laser from Vytek, 48x96" table
    90 watt XY galvo from Vytek
    32" hydraulic paper cutter
    30" Potdevin heated glue applicator with matching presser.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    Matt- the backing on your coasters is 3-ply, and the edges of the white are darkened, which tells me the backing isn't acrylic...?
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Reilly View Post
    Yea, Matt's example is almost certainly on 1/8" baltic birch painted white. I would guess it was done as two parts and assembled later.

    Cutting the cork by itself shouldn't be a problem. That may be the way to go. Sometimes it's easier to take the path that works rather than obsess over why something doesn't work when it should. (Though I generally do the latter myself.)
    The wood material is Baltic Birch that is cut and lightly sanded. The reverse side has a small logo and website which is engraved first. I do not apply a finish or paint them. I've also used bamboo.

    The cork is the same process. It's a raster/vector and then glued to the wood substrate. A set takes about 15-20 minutes to make.

    There is no backing, but since I'm attaching the cork to wood, I don't think it needs it. I would recommend attaching a thin fleece backing, similar to what is used on some veneers, for more robust applications like a koozie or wrap.

  14. #14
    These are actually REALLY nice!! I like to look of the wood backing! You just gave me a great idea!

  15. #15
    Thanks everyone! I've tried low power, multiple passes, cutting from the back first. The only thing I haven't tried yet is getting a little closer to the cork or the back and trying to cut that way. I may try a few more times this evening since one panel I bought is totally wrecked anyway, I can still try a few things. I think the other panel is going back and I'll same my sanity and 2 dual layer coasters, they look sharp!! And since I can buy rolls of cork with self adhesive backing I may be able to eliminate the glue part! You guys rock!!!

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