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Thread: Pics of New Tote for Disston #7 Handsaw

  1. #1
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    Pics of New Tote for Disston #7 Handsaw

    I finally got around to sorting through the rusty old saws hanging in the rafters to restore a couple. I found a Disston #7, 8 PPI, with a great plate , but only partial tote too far gone to repair. Here's some pictures of making a replacement. After soliciting opinions for my fellow Neanders here in the cave, I decided to build a replacement out of some African mahogany and hang onto my precious stash of air dried apple.

    I've made a few totes over the years, most of which turned out really horrible. I'm not artistic in the least (more of a technician woodworker), and shaping wood in three dimensions is definitely using a side of my brain that doesn't get much exercise. I've gotten a bit better over time, and wanted to share a few things that work for me:

    I used to cut my totes out on the bandsaw, but find I can get a more crisply defined profile with coping saw. This is especially helpful for the crisp, fine details like the lambs tongue on this #7.



    Since I have no "artistic vision", having a model to copy is an absolute must.

    DSC_0002.jpgDSC_0003.jpg

    I like to saw out tote blanks that are thicker than the finished 7/8" thickness I'm shooting for. This lets me shape the profile from one side and then saw off the chip out on the far side, before final shaping/profiling. As a bonus, your cutoff leaves a nice template for making what everybody needs – more saw totes!
    DSC_0007.jpg

    Here's the profile roughly done with guidelines penciled in for shaping the curved surfaces. The tools that are most helpful for me in shaping are TFWW saw makers rasp and 1/2 round Aireau (I'm sure I spelled that wrong), and some old half round Nicholson files I inherited from my uncle. Truthfully, I could do 90% of the work with the fine grit half round rasp. Cuts fast and leaves a surface that cleans up quickly with files and sandpaper.
    DSC_0011.jpgDSC_0012.jpg

    I drilled holes for the saw nuts before sawing the kerf for the plate to get less chip out. I've done these before with a hand drill, but a drill press is almost essential for me to get these halfway decent.
    DSC_0019.jpg

    Here's the original tote, the model and the new tote with holes drilled before shaping.
    DSC_0015.jpg



    It's easier for me to shape the rounded surfaces with the tote clamped to the benchtop filing vertically, rather than in a vice.
    DSC_0017.jpg

  2. #2
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    I start the lambs tongue with a "V" shaped carving tool, then use a knife to widen the shoulders of the groove. A knife-edge Japanese saw file comes in handy for me to clean out the tight spots.
    DSC_0020.jpgDSC_0023.jpg


    My favorite LV layout tool to draw the centered layout lines for the slot for the saw plate.
    DSC_0025.jpg


    I use a backsaw, sawing in from both sides to make the initial cut, and then the saw plate itself to get the final width and depth. I really used to sweat getting this slot in line with the tote, but find it's kind of like sawing dovetails - better to stand back and trust your alignment and saw straight through, rather than going stroke by stroke.
    DSC_0030.jpgDSC_0032.jpg


    Here's the tote with shaping complete and square mortises chopped out for the saw nuts on the show side, ready for finishing.
    DSC_0038.jpg

    The standard finish that works for me is Watco oil/ varnish, followed by Amber shellac and paste wax.
    DSC_0042.jpg

    Finally here's the finished saw next to my granddad's #7. If there's a fire, I'm definitely grabbing granddad's saw first!
    DSC_0045.jpg

    Thanks for looking,
    Mike

  3. #3
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    Great job!

  4. #4
    Very nice job as usual, Mike. I have a 7 with the lamb's tongue and really love it.
    Have you thought about getting one of those Liogier handle-maker's rasps? I've been thinking about it myself, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.

  5. #5
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    Hi Mike,

    Beautiful job! The way that turned out, I would suggest that the next time you make one of those totes you might consider using a little of the apple. It's hard to see a better use than to restore one of those beautiful old Disston handsaws.

    Put your initials on the saw, and make sure a grandson or other family member inherits it.

    Stew

  6. #6
    You did a wonderful job. How long do you let the watco dry before applying the shellac?

  7. #7
    Mike,

    great job. I just posted my handsaw restoration of a saw my grandpa had. Your handle is more complex and looks like a fun design. Great way to give a new life to that saw.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Voigt View Post
    Very nice job as usual, Mike. I have a 7 with the lamb's tongue and really love it.
    Have you thought about getting one of those Liogier handle-maker's rasps? I've been thinking about it myself, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
    Steve, I'm really enjoying your coffin smoother build! Beautiful work - I really appreciate your close up pics and excellent, clear descriptions of the build process. Between you and David, I think I've learned enough to give a a one -piece plane a try-maybe. Please keep the posts coming!

    I have a "saw makers" rasp from TFWW, and it does make shaping the curves, especially inside the cut out, much easier. For me a tool I don't regret buying (something I can't always say about some of me more impulsive decisions).
    Cheers, Mike

  9. #9
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    Great job Mike.

    I usually do not use a filming finish on my saw totes as I am always tweaking them a bit to improve the fit. When it gets to the point of not feeling anything in my hand it is done and then I might finish it. Usually I just give them a wax & oil coat after adjustment and that is what they end up having.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #10
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    I'm using a "saw makers" rasp to carve the curves in the top of a crown rail for a rocking chair.
    I like the radius the rasp leaves. It really is a nice tool.

  11. #11
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    Beautiful job Mike!

    I also have the curved handle makers rasp from TFWW, it has made making totes much more fun and simple, well worth it IMO.

  12. #12
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    Nice work. I love the lines of the old #7s with lambs tongue. That's one of the things I have trouble walking away from when I find one in a stack of $2 saws at a flea market.
    ‎"A man must love a thing very much if he not only practices it without any hope of fame or money, but even practices it without any hope of doing it well." —G. K. Chesterton

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cody Kemble View Post
    You did a wonderful job. How long do you let the watco dry before applying the shellac?
    Hi Cody, I let the Watco oil/varnish dry overnight. This African mahogany is fairly soft and absorbent so reapply the Watco (or BOLO) couple times. Or better soak in a Ziploc plastic bag and then reuse the finish).

    Cory, very nice job with your Grandfather's saw restoration! Thanks for sharing.

    Mike

  14. #14
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    The saw handle looks beautiful.

  15. #15
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    I agree with the numerous comments above. It really does look great. WHat I'm curious about is that the tote doesn't match the template you started with and the handle doesn't match your granddads either. It seems you made some decisions to change the design a bit, changing for example the relative angle of the handle to the saw plate - ie ganddads looks to be oriented a bit more vertical and actually looks a bit odd by comparison. I am curious if your less vertical angle was intentional or just the end result? No matter - I'm sure it will work well.

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