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Thread: Gramercy Holdfast Help

  1. #31
    Ditto to what Derek said.

    Some cork would work well too.

  2. #32
    Since the Grammercys are just steel rod, they should be uniform diameter (whatever the ad copy states they are) and smooth. The LN holdfasts are cast ductile iron with a very sand-mold textured surface. I'm guessing that material difference is a key to why they hold so much better. I think leather pads make a big difference in how they hold too.

  3. #33
    I had the same problem with my Grammercy hold fasts. I have two benches: both are about 2 1/4" thick.

    I found the problem is my dog holes. My hold fasts require a tight tolerance on the holes.

    I redrilled a bunch of holes in my bench with a proper bit and guide and now the holdfasts work better.

    I would think eventually the holes get elongated, but for now they're working ok.

  4. #34
    I probably have 5 pairs of the Gramercy holdfsts and they all work fine in all of my 8 or 10 benches i have. 3/4 inch holes 1 1/2 to 3 inch thick construction lumber , 2 1/2 inch birch and ash and poplar and maple. I did nothing to any of the shafts probably wiped any oily residue off when they arrived. I wonder if you waxed your bench top or the holdfast shafts. Mine hold well enough to lift the bench off the floor which is a better test than seeing if the workpiece pivots.

  5. #35
    I'll agree with Mike, had these on lots of benches now and they do work great.

    One of a set I got had a small ridge on the bottom of the pad, almost unnoticeable, but still present. That got filed flat in a few passes of a rough metal file, and has performed perfectly since. Before filing, the ridge did cause the pivot, even when tapped down hard and fast.
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts
    57
    I'm in the "they work great" camp. I have a hard maple bench, just under 4" thick. 3/4" holes. Slight sanding (round-and-round) when they arrived and you can't remove them after a firm hammer blow. I always use a block of whatever wood is hanging around as a pad, since they could dent softer woods.

    I started drilling my holes with a 3/4" plunge router and finished with a longer bit in an electric drill. The holes are very close to 3/4" finished size, but probably not perfectly linear, since 3/4" dowels slide easily in and out in some hole and get stuck in others. That said, the holdfasts work great in all the holes.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,621
    Hello all,

    I've had the Gramercy holdfasts for several years now and they've worked great. Until last week. I'd noticed a couple of rust spots so had lightly sanded and wiped down with oil without really thinking about it. Wasn't till a week or two later that I went to use them and no-joy. Took a bit to figure it out. A quick round and round sanding and they're back in business. FWIW, I use them without leather pads and in a 4" hard maple bench with 3/4" augured holes. Keep 'em dry...

    Best,
    Chris
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    A thicker bench top will require larger holes for the hold fast. They need to cock over at an angle to effectively jam in the holes. My work benches have all had close to 4" thick tops. One is maple and the one I have at home is beech. I can't speak for soft wood bench tops.

    Don't forget my advice to buy a thread restoring file to quickly cut multiple grooves on your hold fast shanks.

    I have never found it necessary to cut grooves in my hold fasts(The blue Marples one worked differently,being tightened with a screw).

    By the way,I only EVER strike my hold fasts with a LARGE WOODEN MALLET,not a steel hammer. They mushroom over time and get work hardened and can eventually break if you keep hitting them with a steel hammer. And,they look ugly when beat up.

  9. #39
    Thanks for these tips, george.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,621
    Indeed, thanks for the tips, George. I'm intrigued about the thread restoring file.
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
    Posts
    12,402
    The thread restoring file is a square file about 9/16" square and about 9" long. It has 8 different pitch threads on it. You use it to smooth out the lumps in beat up threads. Not an expensive file. Useful for ornamentation too,on carvings or other work. Can be used as a substitute for knurling on knobs you might want to knurl,but have no lathe.

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