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Thread: Cutting Board glue-up fail

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
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    Cutting Board glue-up fail

    I'm working on an end-grain cutting board. Not sure what happened, but twice in the last two days when I've tried to glue up the long edge-grain strips, the glue joint has failed between a walnut piece and the next piece (maple or white oak). There seemed to be plenty of glue squeeze out when I clamped the pieces together, but when I started cross-cutting the first glue up to make strips for the end-grain glue up, the strip broke always at a walnut joint.

    After the first failure, I started over, milling new strips for the entire cutting board, glued up the strips and again the joint failed when I started cross-cutting.

    I don't think it's my milling technique - the ash, white oak and cherry strips all glued together just fine, but not the walnut.

    Is there something magical about walnut that makes it harder to glue up than other woods?

  2. #2
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    How thick is this cutting board?

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    The initial strips were 1-1/8" thick. Final thickness for the end grain strips was to be about 1-1/4".

  4. #4
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    black river falls wisconsin
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    Might want to post some pics?

  5. #5
    Walnut is a good gluing wood, shouldn't fail. Are you using yellow glue?

  6. #6
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    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    How long are you allowing for the glue to set before cutting?
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    NW Arkansas
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    I've made a lot of end grain cutting boards. I use Titebond 3 because I feel it gives a bit more open time. A lot of work before it gets clamped. Are you running out time?

    Larry

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
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    San Antonio Texas
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    a long shot here, but is it "roasted" walnut? I've tried to glue that stuff before and the joint failed completely. after the fail, I researched it and i've read comments that it doesn't hold glue well. a long shot, but ya never know.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Craig Behnke View Post
    a long shot here, but is it "roasted" walnut? I've tried to glue that stuff before and the joint failed completely. after the fail, I researched it and i've read comments that it doesn't hold glue well. a long shot, but ya never know.
    Interesting!!!.... I googled this up. As it goes the "roasted walnut" really isn't walnut at all but may be maple or some other wood that share similar grain characteristics as walnut. If that's quite true, then we'd be missing that familiar and distinctive aromatic odor when we cut walnut, wouldn't we?

  10. #10
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    Oct 2013
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    Maybe I need to let the glue cure longer, I waited about 30 minutes or so. Using titebond iii.

    I'll check next time to be sure my pieces are all milled perfectly square - maybe I was off by a little on the walnut.

    Thanks for all the replies. Seeing Larry's example gives me hope!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Kelowna, BC, Canada
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    From Titebond's web site:

    What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?

    For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours...

    30 minutes from glue-up to cutting just isn't enough. You probably don't need to change anything about your milling and glueing techniques. Just wait overnight before you cut into the glued-up boards.


  12. #12
    from the manufacturer's website - "We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours" - give your glueup at least 24 hours before cutting - I doubt that you are doing anything else wrong but being in a hurry

  13. #13
    Dumb question alert: Are you gluing walnut face grain or freshly milled edge grain? Is it possible that there's some surface contamination on the walnut that's preventing a glue bond? I've seen people here have trouble finishing walnut for this reason.

  14. #14
    Ding, ding, ding. Think you solved your own problem. TIitebond III is barely past its open time in 30 minutes. Patience.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Copas View Post
    I've made a lot of end grain cutting boards. I use Titebond 3 because I feel it gives a bit more open time. A lot of work before it gets clamped. Are you running out time?

    Hey Larry,
    It catches my eye that many of the segments in the board are different of course assuming sap and heart wood? Whats the lighter two species in the board? Im not going to lie and say that I dont find the disruption in the symmetry confusing but knowing that its sap/heart makes it a little more acceptable... Interesting.

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