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Thread: glass engraving sample

  1. #1
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    glass engraving sample

    I am working on a different type of sample for a client. It appears to be regular glass. I have used the settings of 100S and 45P for the images attached. They don't seem to be frosted like glass mugs that I have done in the past. Not sure what settings to use from here. Because the one photo of the words did not show up very well IMO, I did a second side of the item trying to do color fill to help it stand out. But the color fill did not turn out well either I think. I tried using both liquid detergent and wet paper towel and using tape. Any suggestions? Sorry can't get my second image uploaded. We'll keep trying.
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    Last edited by Kevin Clark2227; 07-17-2014 at 12:21 PM.
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  2. #2
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    What resolution are you running it at, and what black setting are the letters at? I see some serious chipout on the edges of letters, which is usually a sign of too high dpi or too hot... your power looks reasonable, soooooo....
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  3. #3
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    Just finished a 12 trophy package for a golf event , all glass. I used setting of 95% power 15 speed 500 DPI, 200 PPI and 80% Black. No wet newspaper, soap, etc. Also no chipping, all frost.

    Note that is for a 25W system, so a speed of 30-40 would probably be about right for you. The ppi setting is the most important..
    Mark
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  4. #4
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    I used a DPI of 600. As far as the black setting not sure how to look that one up. Still a noobie
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  5. #5
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    Are you using Corel to prepare file. In color bar there are a series of black to white shades... 80% is 3 less than 100%. fill
    Mark
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    K: 100 in Corel Draw
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  7. #7
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    You are set to CMYK RGB is what should be used and R-51 G-51 B-51 would be 80% Black
    Mark
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sipes View Post
    You are set to CMYK RGB is what should be used and R-51 G-51 B-51 would be 80% Black
    So I need to convert my file from CMYK to RGB?

    If so, should that fix my problem and if so, how does that fix it. Not that I am arguing, I just like to know how things work in relation to one another so that in the future I will have some knowledge to better better informed for tweaking things on my own.
    Last edited by Kevin Clark2227; 07-17-2014 at 3:07 PM.
    40 Watt Epilog Helix

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  9. #9
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    Mark
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Clark2227 View Post
    K: 100 in Corel Draw
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Clark2227 View Post
    I used a DPI of 600. As far as the black setting not sure how to look that one up. Still a noobie
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Clark2227 View Post
    So I need to convert my file from CMYK to RGB?

    If so, should that fix my problem and if so, how does that fix it. Not that I am arguing, I just like to know how things work in relation to one another so that in the future I will have some knowledge to better better informed for tweaking things on my own.
    You should always run files as RGB... CMYK does not have a 1:1 transfer to a machine that expects RGB, so you can get weird things happening, like random dots in the background of an image that was white in CMYK, but is a very light shade of gray in RGB.

    600 dpi is a lot for glass. I'd drop that back to 300dpi.

    You should be at 70-80% black. 100% puts the dots too close together.



    The chipping you're seeing is the result of the last two items... too much power in a contained space.
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  11. #11
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    Thanks of the great replies. I will be doing another sample tomorrow to see how it turns out.
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  12. #12
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    Hey All -
    'Other day, I engraved two different flag-display cases (triangular glass fronts) - one turned out fine; on the other 'couple letters were 'little "faded". (not as clear as the others.) I used a trick Bill C. taught me (pertaining to brightening up my black granite photos) - With my fingertip, I rubbed (titanium oil based white paint) across the glass, 'cross the text, then wiped it clean. This significantly brightened and cleared up the letters ... saved the day! Learned another trick 'other day - on my own: when doing lots of small metal tags - placed within my Lasermax/sheet "jig", I simply use a piece of sticky blue painters tape to pull each of 'em out! - used to have to pry 'em out with a pin. (what' a time saver!)

    Bill
    (Using Epilog 35W Mini 24)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Sipes View Post

    Note that is for a 25W system, so a speed of 30-40 would probably be about right for you. The ppi setting is the most important..
    Does the ppi setting even come into play with raster images?
    (don't think it does on my machine, but I'm not sure on others)

  14. #14
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    I think these came out better with new settings, but doesn't stand out with a photo. Not even with the color fill.
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  15. #15
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    If you plan to use a non-solid background, colorfill is the only way to go. A photo does not provide proper contrast for the eye to separate the background from the foreground.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
    CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
    USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
    Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
    Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
    Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
    Delta 18-900L 18" drill press

    Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
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