Picture Frames - Cutting Acrylic

[Mike Goetzke]

I made some custom size picture frames and bought a large sheet of acrylic. They show using a knife similar to a linoleum knife but I was wondering if I could use a circular saw with a fine tooth blade for plastic with a plywood backer to cut this thin stuff. When I have cut it in the past with a utility knife I sometimes get chipping.

Thanks,

Mike

[John Schweikert]

A triple chip grind (TCG) blade is the best choice. They come in any size for any saw from any manufacturer. Oshlun is probably most economical and good quality. Otherwise chip-out and melting is expected.

[Erik Loza]

Mike, they use table saws to cut acrylic in commercial applications. As John S. pointed out, a triple-chip blade is what shops typically use.

Good luck.

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[pat warner]

I'm assuming cover glass? Or maybe the frame members. Whatever, routers were made for this.
Of course there are saw blades that do a good job too, so long as you have hold down and feed control.

[Chris Fournier]

I use a plastic blade. Acrylic will collect dust like crazy. Glass really is a better choice for pictures.

[Huck Schwee]

I've had minimal problems cutting acrylic on my table saw with the standard 40 tooth combo blade. However, those pieces were not very large, so I don't know if that will have an effect.

[Frank Martin]

I've had minimal problems cutting acrylic on my table saw with the standard 40 tooth combo blade. However, those pieces were not very large, so I don't know if that will have an effect.

I did the same years ago with no problem. I was using a Forrest WWII combo blade.

[Don Selke]

Personally, I would never use acrylic for picture frames. I use non glare glass from my local glass supplier.

[John Schweikert]

I'm a 15 year commercial photographer and have used all sorts of glass and plexi for framing art. There is nothing inherently wrong with using acrylic for framing. It's lighter than glass, no risk of breaking and does come in a variety of museum grade qualities from professional framing shops. A large percentage of weight from a framed picture results from glass.

When I have framed my own art, if buyers are willing to pay for it, I've used a non glare museum grade acrylic. Expensive but well worth it. For everyday framing, I have extensively used window pane glass from a local glass company.

You can reduce static with acrylics by using film anti-static cloths or newspaper and window cleaner. Acrylics scratch easily so be very careful what cloth type you use.

[John Schweikert]

Also, if just using 1/8" acrylic then scoring and snapping it will work fine. But 1/4" acrylic is better suited to be cut with a saw blade. I use acrylic panes for my garden shed now. I don't have to worry about banging a window with a tool handle or anything else.

[Steve Peterson]

I cut acrylic all the time on my table saw using a blade for plastic. It is just an 80 tooth blade with a special grind that clears chips better. I don't recall paying much for the blade. Any plywood blade with at least 80 teeth should work just as well.

It does throw plastic chips everywhere that stick to anything because of static cling. Most of it comes off the panes when you remove the protective film.

I know many people prefer real glass for pictures, but I want acrylic for pictures hanging in my kids rooms. At least 3 or 4 of them have hit the floor already.

Steve

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the info. I got some quotes for custom cut glass and was surprised to find it's only about $2 more per frame for 13x19 (I have 6 to make). Although, the breakage thoughts mentioned in the last post need to be considered.


Mike

[Paul Wunder]

I have recently cut 1/8" cast acrylic sheets using my table saw and a standard thin kerf Forrest Woodworker II blade. The cuts were smooth and without chipping or crazing

[Joe Spear]

I just framed a picture and used acrylic. I cut it on the tablesaw with an 80-tooth Freud non-ferrous metal blade. The edges were not even very rough, and I got rid of the little clinging particles with a swipe of 220-grit sandpaper. Just leave the plastic covering on when you cut it to avoid scratching on the saw top.

[Wayne Hendrix]

I have cut acrylic with a 50 tooth combination blade by making two passes over the saw. The first one shallow to just score the cut line and the second pass to complete the cut. Gives me a perfect cut edge. I don't cut acrylic enough to warrant buying a different blade. I do the exact same thing for plywood for the same reason.