Router Bit for Shaker Raised Panel

[Justin Jump]

In building another prototype door panel for a shaker cabinet, I wanted to use something other a piece of 1/4" plywood.

At Lowe's this weekend, I came across this cabinet with the raised panel towards the rear as some of them do.

Anyone know of which type of router bit this may be or any that might be similar?

THX

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[Dave Richards]

You could easily do something like that with a vertical panel raising bit with a cove profile or you can get a horizontal raised panel cutter and run it on the back side of the panel.

[Ralph Boumenot]

There is a router bit set made for making a shaker style door. Amana, Eagle, and others make it.

[Justin Jump]

Thanks....I have the Freud set, and I like the quality of cut, but at the time I bought the Freud, my plan was to use 1/4" ply as the panel, but after building a mockup, like some other, I find the "feel" of the door to be light with using 1/4" plywood insert.

My current prototype, I am using 1/2" thick maple stock and I want to run the raised panel on the inside, to give the door a little more weight and see how I like that.

[J.R. Rutter]

Just to muddy the waters, you could just use thicker plywood and rabbet out the edges in back to fit the groove. When i do this, I generally leave 1/16" to 1/8" reveal around the panel so that I don't have to get precision square cuts on them. If you want solid wood, then a basic raised panel bit will do the trick, as mentioned already.

[Jim Andrew]

MDF covered with veneer has a heavier feel if you want to use that. I have and it makes the doors feel heavier.

[J.R. Rutter]

MDF covered with veneer has a heavier feel if you want to use that. I have and it makes the doors feel heavier.

Indeed - it is flatter, too.

[Justin Jump]

I looked around locally for MDF cored maple veneer, and I had no luck finding any. I too would like to at least try a sample to see how flat it really is. My last mock up, after some finish, the face side of the 1/4" ply I used (1/4" Oak from HD) was really avy, even though I sanded it thoroughly.

I am going to stop by Rockler tonight and pick up this bit:

http://www.rockler.com/raised-panel-...ght-horizontal

I want to see what type of panel I can get for my doors, by placing the raised panel surface on the inside.

[Justin Jump]

really wavy......

[Peter Quinn]

The best way to improve your cabinets quickly is to improve your supplier. Find out where the cabinet makers in your area shop and see if you can buy there. The home centers tend to sell very low grade sheet goods for just a little less than it costs for top quality....better for them than you. Regardless I find 1/4" panels too thin even if good plywood is used.

The cut in your picture is a cove, it's a pretty typical and elegant way to finish a reversed panel (flat to the front). Freud sells a few different size horizontal panel raisers that make coves, ime the smaller cove looks better on the back of a panel. A vertical panel raiser may be easier on a small router. The cutter you referenced is more of a colonial or shaker style bevel, it will get you the same functionality with a slightly different look. The cove is convenient because it looks correct regardless of door thickness, the beveled panel raiser requires a certain thickness to properly render the profile plus the associated fillet (flat section in the horizontal plane which forms the edge of the panels field). You can always let the panel sit proud of the door in the back or use thicker doors, 1" is typical on custom work in my area.

[scott vroom]

Here's what I use for Shaker doors:

Katana #18837 Shaker rail/stile set
Lee Valley/Veritas # 16J66.51 shaker raised panel bit

I follow shaker tradition of facing the raised portion of the panel toward the cabinet interior, and leave it at full 3/4" thickness which means the raised portion is proud of the rails/stiles by ~3/16". I do this because it gives the door a more solid feel.

[Peter Quinn]

Here's what I use for Shaker doors:

Katana #18837 Shaker rail/stile set
Lee Valley/Veritas # 16J66.51 shaker raised panel bit

I follow shaker tradition of facing the raised portion of the panel toward the cabinet interior, and leave it at full 3/4" thickness which means the raised portion is proud of the rails/stiles by ~3/16". I do this because it gives the door a more solid feel.

That is another interesting way to do it, I have that in a shaper cutter, had never seen it in a router bit. Justin, if you look at the bit Scott references it shares the feature with a cove that it is not dependent of the panel thickness, except that it will have a maximum thickness. So you can use that for anything from maybe 3/8" up to its maximum and still render the profile. Regular panel raisers like the Rockler bit you referenced are typically designed to make a forward facing panel of a certain thickness, typically 5/8". So you have a 1/4" panel tongue, 1/4" "rise" on the bevel of profile, and 1/8" "step" of fillet that gets you to the flat part of the panel "field" or middle. If you run a 1/2" panel the fillet disappears, the panel doesn't look correct, if you run a 3/4" panel you either run out of cutter or the fillet becomes very large bordering on strange. If you do a quick drawing or run a test piece it will quickly become apparent.

[Roger Dolan]

I have a set from Infinity tools http://www.infinitytools.com/3-Pc-15...info/00%2D525/
This is a very high quality set of bits for raised panel cabinet, passage and entry doors.
I have used it to make all three size doors and it works flawlessly.

[Loren Woirhaye]

It can be done in several ways. It can be done on the table saw but it may require more sanding. You tilt the blade a little to get the shoulder cut.

If you can stand a square shoulder, sharp inside corner is a little awkward. I ground a small bevel on the corner carbides of 1/2" straight router bit to use in a router table with the panel fed on edge using a tall fence, or a horizontal router table. The shoulder is still square but the inside corner is a little rounded and easier to sand.

[Justin Jump]

OK - I found a source for the MDF cored 1/4" maple plywood.

Same as my pre-finished, Bennett Supply. They originally told me they did not have it!!

Does $74 s sheet sound right? Menards has it for $28, and if you watch the video, it stats made in USA, not sure on that one though.