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Thread: Proper finish over dewaxed shellac

  1. #1

    Proper finish over dewaxed shellac

    Hello Saw Mill Creek! I love this site and received great advice on projects that I have completed on my home.

    Recently, I replaced my stairway banister and balusters with American cherry and added a dewaxed shellac finish over all parts. Now I want to add a top finish but am not sure of the best approach. Should I go with a varnish or poly? Also, is it best to go with wipe on or plan to use a brush?

    Looking forward to your advice.

    Thanks in advance,

    Sal

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    "Poly" is varnish...

    I personally would only use polyurethane varnish on floors as I prefer the greater clarity that a non-poly varnish exhibits, but the abrasion resistance that poly provides could be a desirable feature for the banister, for sure. As to the application, either way. Brush is more efficient for this kind of project, especially since you'll need about three coats brushed or about 12 coats wiped...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Thanks for the quick reply Jim and the clarification. Do you have a recommended poly to use?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NE Ohio
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    Should I go with a varnish or poly? Also, is it best to go with wipe on or plan to use a brush?
    If you go with oil based, then a poly is pretty much all that's left out there these days.
    Waterlox is about it for a solvent based clear coat.

    You'll have to check around locally to see what's available in your area.
    Here in Ohio, it's Waterlox and nothing else except a poly of one kind or another.

    I'm currently using some MinWax oil based wipe on poly for a kitchen cart project I'm working on.
    According to the can, it only requires 3 coats.
    I'll probably give it 5 coats on the outsides and 3 coats on the inside & use a rattle can of spray for the top.

    I keep seeing everyone here say 12 coats of wipe on material and I have to wonder where that figure comes from?
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  5. #5
    If it were me, I'd use a poly. I think it only starts to look plasticky when built into a substantial film. I'd use a satin or semigloss and I'd wipe it on (thinned). Personally, I'd brush on the first coat a little thinned (~10%), and then I'd wipe on the rest thinned more (~ 25%). It may take more time, but each coat will go (relatively) quicker and less frustratingly than the brush.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Frankly, I'd be happy with the shellac--at least with a coat or two more, though shellac shouldn't build to a heavy coating. It's extremely easy to repair if needed. I used it on my house banisters without any problems over several years. You don't walk on the banisters or balusters, so the damage they might get is when you are moving furniture or the like up or down stairs, and that kind of ding will happen on varnish, whether alkyd or poilyurethane.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    I used Waterlox on my Oak handrails and they look great and have held up well (lots of people hanging on them). Don't apply that over shellac I think. I like General Finish EnduroVar products. I even used it on a table just to test it out. My wife likes the table better than I do and I was in a hurry so I quickly sanded off much of what had been there and slapped some of the stuff on there. It has held up much better than the original finish (it was not a factory finish).

  8. #8
    The original formula Waterlox is fine over dewaxed shellac.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Any finish will go on de-waxed shellac. Though I despise a poly anything, there are places and applications for it. A bannister is one of those apps.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    WNY
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    Bill's right, you can put pretty much anything over dewaxed shellac. Personally, I'd use Arm-R-Seal because it has the same solids content as Waterlox yet is designed to be wiped on w/o having to thin it. That means you only need 3 or 4 coats. I wipe it on with a paper towel or a piece of microfiber cloth. It resists runs much better than a brushed on finish. Also, Arm-R-Seal is much lighter in color than Waterlox, which I prefer, and has great clarity even though it's poly based. Here's a photo:

    IMG_3527.JPG

    Left = Arm-R-Seal gloss
    Middle = Arm-R-Seal over Sealcoat (dewaxed) shellac
    Right = same as middle but BLO wiped on first

    John

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