Leveling table saw side wings?

[Doug Walls]

I'm having a little bit of trouble with leveling up the side wings on a older Powermatic 72 table saw.

There's three 1/2" dia. bolts per wing & I can get the top/wings pretty much totally flat by just loosely snugging everything up, But once I firmly tighten everything up one or two of the corners want to lift-up or pull-down slightly.

I got the saw & wings from different sources, So there's always a chance that one or the other is not truly square with each other?

I was just wondering if there's any tips or tricks to leveling up the side wings?
It's not off by much, Probably less than 0.015 but it's enough to notice.

Doug

[Cary Falk]

Either get some brass shim stock at the hardware or cut some soda or beer cans up and use that. Place the shims above or below the bolt you are tightening to move the end of the table up or down.

[Doug Walls]

Place the shims above or below the bolt you are tightening to move the end of the table up or down.

Good point on the "end" of the table movment!
Visually it's hard to tell which way the end may be moving, But with a good straight edge I should be able to tell which way it's moving. That way I'll at least have an idea of which side to shim!

Thanks
Doug

[Bill Huber]

When I got the cast iron wings for my Jet table saw I had the same problem.

I needed some shims, I just used some brass I got at the hardware store but had problems getting the right thickness. I then went to Harbor Fright and bought 2 feeler gauges, like $3 each and it made it much easier to get the wings adjusted.

Put one of the gauges in tighten everything down and checked it, still off a little bit, go to the next higher gauge, worked very well.

[Matt Day]

I clamp 2 jointed pieces of 8/4 maple (about 2' long) spanning across the table and wings, one at the front and one at the back. I clamp them down really tight so when I tighten the bolts the wing stays put and flush. Hope that helps.

[glenn bradley]

I have also used foil tape found in the HVAC section of your local hardware store. Quite thin and it sticks in place so you don't need three hands. Bill's tip on the feeler gauges is pure genius ;-)

[Matt Day]

I just realized you meant you're trying to get the outer corners flat with the table. I've used tin foil in the past and had good success.

[Doug Walls]

I clamp 2 jointed pieces of 8/4 maple (about 2' long) spanning across the table and wings,

I used the same idea with some 3/4" X 3/8" X 8" long pieces of tool steel across the wing/table joint, It allowed me to get the two alined good but it still pulls or lifts the corner when fully tightened & the clamps are removed. Might have helped with a longer piece of stock, But thats all I have on hand.

[Doug Walls]

I just realized you meant you're trying to get the outer corners flat with the table.

Yeah I really was more cocerned with the top/wing joint moving up or down! But after reading Cary Falk's post on the "end" of the table moving, That gives me a better idea of which way I need to shim to get it straight.

[Doug Walls]

When I got the cast iron wings for my Jet table saw I had the same problem.

I needed some shims, I just used some brass I got at the hardware store but had problems getting the right thickness. I then went to Harbor Fright and bought 2 feeler gauges.

Fortunately I have a good assortment of shims on hand, I use to work in a machine shop & we used them all the time with small dies.

I like your idea of the Harbor fright feller gauges! I'll have to remember that for later use when my shim supply runs out.

Thanks
Doug

[David Eisenhauer]

Also, you may need to file or emory cloth the surface you are tightening against to remove minute "peaks" that cause unwanted movement as the nut rises and falls going over the "peak". I have had good luck with that when attempting to get things within a few thousandths of accuracy. Even when using washers, it seems to help to get a perfectly flat, polished surface to face up against when tightening.

[Doug Walls]

Also, you may need to file or emory cloth the surface you are tightening against to remove minute "peaks" that cause unwanted movement as the nut rises and falls going over the "peak".

That's another good point! I wire-wheeled & lightly sanded the machined mating surfaces, But the back (bolt head) side is not machined & just the regular casting finish.

Thanks
Doug