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Thread: Max diameter for end grain boxes?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Max diameter for end grain boxes?

    Is there a diameter beyond which it is risky to go for end grain boxes that will maintain a good fitting top, given that it is dried properly and allowed to rest for a day or so before final fitting? What is your comfort zone on this? Thanks in advance.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    Colorado Springs
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    Dan, I've done pine vases up to 10 or 12" and they seem pretty stable. The largest box I've done was about 5" but I just haven't had a reason to do a bigger one. Someone was doing canisters for coffee that looked pretty big. Was that Curt Fuller?
    "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert Heinlein

    "[H]e had at home a lathe, and amused himself by turning napkin rings, with which he filled up his house, with the jealousy of an artist and the egotism of a bourgeois."
    Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Fort Pierce, Florida
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    3,498
    I did a 6" dia canister from dry walnut. Its been stable for about a year and a half now. Lid still has a suction fit.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Greater Hendersonville NC
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    Also done them in the 5-6" range with good stability. About tightness of the lid, I have found that my customers generally do not like super tight lids (even though turners do...); either the lid is too difficult to take off with one hand, or the lid is just tight enough so that lifting up on the lid results in the bottom of the box falling onto the table or floor... One approach I have taken is to put a strip of adhesive backed cork (1/4" x 1/16" thickness) around the outside of the tenon (or inside of "mortise") of the box. This gives an easier opening, but still reasonably air-tight closure.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Georgetown,KY
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    Of course the ideal to assure uniform fit is to cut the top from the same blank as the body, and you will still frequently end up with a twist lock fit!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    lufkin tx
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    Depends--how big is your lathe?

  7. #7
    On loose fitting lids with a knob, the sky is the limit but with a suction fit lid, unless you can grasp top and bottom of the box to overcome the suction (about the size of a mason jar ?) the usefulness would decline.

  8. #8
    Agree with all the above. I have hollowed some very large cylinders, up to a foot or so diameter, but when you get real big, you have to start thinking about making the lids and bottoms out of separate pieces. I usually do it with some contrasting woods. I've made quite a few canisters this way. Turning purist wouldn't consider them a true "box" though...

  9. #9
    For a threaded box, about 1 1/2 inch max, and that can be pushing it. For canister type boxes, I have gone 5 inches with no problems. I do cut the lid from the same piece, and for getting the grain to match. They will move the same during humidity changes, so they are tight for 1/4 turn, perfect for 1/4, tight, and then perfect again. Wood always moves. For a suction type fit that isn't really that tight, if the wood grain is really straight, if you use about a 1/2 inch or longer tenon, and leave the fit a hair loose, there will be a woosh as you lift the lid off.Sides must be perfectly parallel.

    robo hippy

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Spokane, Washington
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    4,021
    Thanks for all of the replies! I didn't think there should be a problem, but most of the boxes I've seen have been relatively small, so thought I'd check.

    Dan
    Eternity is an awfully long time, especially toward the end.

    -Woody Allen-

    Critiques on works posted are always welcome

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