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Thread: Varigrind users

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Posts
    99

    Varigrind users

    Do you reset the leg angle when sharpening bowl and spindle gouges? Or keep it the same for both like the AAW article?

  2. #2
    Glenn, I don't use the "jig" for spindle gouges. You should be only sitting the end of the handle in the pull out and rotating the tool to sharpen traditional spindle gouges. The jig is meant for swept back (Irish or Ellsworth grind) profiles. Now having said that, I do have a couple "spindle" gouges that I have sharpened with the jig, but I do not change the leg angle. I just spend more time on the tip of the tool to keep it from being really pointed, like a detail gouge. I have also been known to sharpen a thick (see Thompson) spindle gouge with the platform and treating the sharpening movements like it is a scraper. Then, like every gouge, I grind the heal off.
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    No, it's not thin enough yet.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    My spindle gouges are about < half 'conventional' and > half Irish grind. I do not change the varigrind leg, but I do change the angle of the point - 35 degrees for normal spindle gouges and 25 for detail gouges. I am going to try Cindy Drozda's method using the platform and grinding to 35 or 40 degrees with swept back wings so the grinder lines are square to the edge. I also grind back the heel to get it out of the way. More important in spindle work than in bowls.

    I also have a couple of 'European' or 'German' gouges, but they are another subject entirely. Great for long coves, BTW.
    Retired - when every day is Saturday (unless it's Sunday).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Rapid City, SD
    Posts
    223
    Right or wrong, mine is still set at the angle right out of the box.
    Wes

    "Never believe everything you think"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Forest, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    386
    I do use the vari-grind for my spindle gouges and I also change the leg angle between spindle gouges and bowl gouges. The setting I use for bowl gouges is about the middle of the adjustment range and the setting for spindle gouges is about half way between the bowl gouge setting and the top of the slot, so the leg is closer to parallel with the tool. I have the two setting scribed on the side of the jig so it is easy to move it back and forth. I haven't the slightest idea where I came up with the spindle gouge setting but I have been using it for years and am happy with it.

    Bob

  6. #6
    I use the pamphlet Glenn Lucas ships with his tools now. Similar for some tools to the Kirk DeHeer "Sharpeing Demystified" article in the Winter 2006 edition of the American Woodturner (AAW) magazine. Without going to this setting on the Varigrind and using Doug Thompson or similar instructions the wings of my bowl gouges were at a very different grind angle than the nose, not bad if you are only going to shear scrape with them but I like the transition I get now much better.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Middle of the Mitten (MI)
    Posts
    200
    I use the vari-grind for my bowl gouges and I now use it for some of my spindle gouges. I have the adjustable leg set to instructions I read somewhere (not much help), 3rd notch down, and I don't change the angle, it always works fine for me. I vary the depth of the tool sticking out of the vari-grind.. I have one depth for bowl gouges (1 3/4") and one for my spindle gouges (2"). I'm sure there are other people who use different set-ups but this is what works for me.
    Tim.
    Seven days without turning makes one weak.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Cary, NC
    Posts
    551
    Being that I am lazy and don't like to be constantly adjusting settings, I use an original Vari-Grind for my spindle gouges and a Vari-Grind 2 for my bowl gouges. I have a 180 grit CBN wheel on y grinder. I cut pvc spacers to slide over the v-arms. This enables me to get the same grind every time. It takes longer for my grinder to get up to speed than it does to sharpen. I find that using this set-up, I will sharpen more often.

  9. #9
    I use the vari-grind for both spindle and bowl gouges. Rightly or wrongly I keep everything the same but shorten the arm length for my spindle gouges. I have drilled a 1/8" hole at both locations in the arm and fixture and simply insert a bent section of 1/8" stock into the hole. Super quick changes and like Joe I seem to sharpen more often cause it's so easy. Actually I'm not sure if what I do should be called sharpening as I usually just lightly touch the CBN wheel once across the cutting edge.
    Pete


    * It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
    I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Ottawa, ON Canada
    Posts
    1,467
    I'm with Bob. I change both the jig angle and the distance the pocket is from the grinder. I only use Scott's method - putting the end of the handle of the gouge in the pocket - for my spindle roughing gouge.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    SE Kansas City Metro, MO
    Posts
    661
    I've got a (small) set of Thompson gouges and am just using his recommendation - same position of the Varigrind leg for bowl and spindle; pocket distance is adjusted differently for the spindle gouge, but all 3 bowl gouges (3/8, 1/2 and 5/8) use the same pocket position so sharpening is easy. http://www.thompsonlathetools.com/sharpening.asp

    Works for me so far, but I'm not quite smart enough to know at this point whether there's a "better way" or not....

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Bradshaw View Post
    Being that I am lazy and don't like to be constantly adjusting settings, I use an original Vari-Grind for my spindle gouges and a Vari-Grind 2 for my bowl gouges. I have a 180 grit CBN wheel on y grinder. I cut pvc spacers to slide over the v-arms. This enables me to get the same grind every time. It takes longer for my grinder to get up to speed than it does to sharpen. I find that using this set-up, I will sharpen more often.
    Joe - I think I understand what you do with the PVC spacers. But to make sure would you please post a photo? - John

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Bradshaw View Post
    Being that I am lazy and don't like to be constantly adjusting settings, I use an original Vari-Grind for my spindle gouges and a Vari-Grind 2 for my bowl gouges. I have a 180 grit CBN wheel on y grinder. I cut pvc spacers to slide over the v-arms. This enables me to get the same grind every time. It takes longer for my grinder to get up to speed than it does to sharpen. I find that using this set-up, I will sharpen more often.
    Joe - Made some PVC pipe spacers for for the Vee-Arm on my Oneway Wolverine Grinding Jig. Using PVC pipe spacers is a great idea. Simplifies Vee-Arm setup for reproduceable grinds on tools. Works great.

    One caution. Since the Vee-Arm setting reference point is the base for the Vee-Arm, the PVC pipe spacers only work reliably with CBN (or similar) wheels that do not change in diameter with use/age. If one is using a matrix grinding wheel (Norton 3X or similar), the angle of the grind on tools will decrease as the wheel wears with fixed Vee-Arm setting relative to the base. Grind angle error will be small and perhaps not significant, but it will change. If using a matrix grinding wheel, the Vee-Arm setting must be referenced to the grinding wheel. See Kirk DeHeer "Sharpeing Demystified" article in the Winter 2006 edition of the American Woodturner (AAW) magazine. - John

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