Lapping a Plane Sole Flat, Advise Wanted

[David Weaver]

Squaring a plane is a job for a pro. Paying someone to grind a plane that only needs a flat sole is a waste of money. (not trying to be rude, just stating - it's easier to get a plane beyond functionally flat for woodworking than it is to do any number of actual woodworking things. Getting one square without scraping - if it has metal sides, can be another story, but we have to be a bit realistic about how many dead square planes we need to have, and how many things we're actually going to need to shoot -especially if most of our board ends are tenons or end up flush with another surface to be trimmed and planed later and then covered with mouldings).

[Jim Koepke]

I'd stop where you are now and use the plane.

From what you said,

Using my engineers square the bottom was not showing any issues that my naked eye

I would not have bothered with the lapping in the first place.

jtk

[Mike Holbrook]

Thanks for the answers guys. I think this is an important part of the OP's question. I ran the plane over sand paper when I thought it was perfectly serviceable because I was curious to see if and how much it might still be out of flat. I was also curious how much effort might be involved in getting it as flat and evenly buffed as I could. I was curious for two reasons.

1) I wanted to have an idea how much work it would take to take the bottom from functionally "flat" to as close as I could get it to "perfectly" flat and buffed nice and shinny. My conclusion was that the remaining work required to make the bottom "perfectly" flat and buffed was quite substantial using the methods, tools and supplies I have. I concluded, as I think David implies above that there were many things more deserving of my time. I think if I wanted a "perfectly" square and flat vintage plane I would send it off to get the work done. Someone like Tablesaw Tom obviously has better tools and skills that will produce more accurate results, allowing me to get back to projects. I just happen to have several LV planes and a collection of easier to adjust wood planes that I feel can handle any chores requiring that level of refinement in terms of plane bottom & side flatness & squareness.

2) I was interested in seeing what PSA sand paper on my steel tablesaw table might "bring to light" vs my naked eye and a good engineers square. I was interested, as I use this method to flatten and square wood plane bodies. I found that this method of flattening and squaring is capable of accuracy beyond what I can actually see using a good square and my naked eye. I feel reassured that the methods I am using to flatten and square my wood planes are at least as accurate as I need for them to be.

I believe I find corroboration from fellow woodworkers above who's opinion I have reason to respect.

[David Weaver]

I can't say anything about your tablesaw, but a delta hybrid that I had was a hundredth hollow in the length, but good going across its width as long as the tables were installed properly.

My glass was a piece of "glass shelf" (the cheapest way to get a large piece like that) that a glass shop had on hand for people who break glass cabinet shelves.

It was $20, and already dead flat. It's thick enough that a low profile dog holds it in place. According to a starrett 380, it is far far flatter on the top of my bench than my TS was.

All of that said, the use test is still the determinant of the amount of work to be done. I do, despite liking to lap the bottom of my planes, have some planes that I use that have never been lapped, and have also seen planes that I would consider unusable without lapping - like metal jointers with a concave sole - one where you can't plane a sprung joint.

[Mike Holbrook]

My tablesaw is a General International with a table extension that I believe was manufactured to acceptable tolerances. I am happy with this 27" wide surface but might find use for an even larger more versatile surface. I have not used my tablesaw for much, other than flattening, for some time and I am thinking about getting rid of it to make space for other tools/work surfaces.

I have an old metal table/desk that belonged to my grandfather. I am in the process of restoring this table/desk. I am making a new top for it and I am considering making a portion or all of that top out of one of the composite stones used for counter tops. I understand these surfaces are manufactured to high standards, similar to glass. Such a hard, very flat, water proof, heat proof, stain resistant surface might be useful for several jobs in my workshop.

[Stew Denton]

I received a nice note from Tom, and he advised that I may not even need to flatten what I have. He did recommend that I wax them up and see how well they can do first, so I guess for now I am going to stand pat, and when I am able will take his advise.

I had surgery a little over a month ago, am doing well and improving every week, and have even gone back to work. However, I do not do anything very physical yet, and mostly rest after I get home. That said, I am working on restoring a couple of small saws that my grandsons are eventually going to grow into and use when they come to visit us, but that is not very physical. Thus, at this point I am not going to be doing any serious planning for at least a couple more weeks or so.


In his note, Tom advised that he had answered some of my questions, but also advised that it would probably raise other questions in my mind, and he was right, I now have more questions, which I will probably ask as a separate thread on the board.

Thank you for all of the advise, it is very much appreciated.

Thanks and regards,

Stew

[Ray Bohn]

Tom Bussey from the post above is known as Tableasaw Tom and he will grind the sole flat and the sides perpendicular to the sole. His prices are reasonable and his work is excellent. I'm sure others will also recommend Tom.

+1
There are some people that will swear that a flat sole is not needed. I found that the three planes Tom worked on for me all perform substantially better than before his magic touch.