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Thread: why do you resaw?

  1. #16
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    Jun 2008
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    I like building furniture form the same tree. So I need my band saws to rough out the slabs in pieces it all starts from there.Looks better to me when the piece is from the same tree.
    I have a little tiny saw table saw. Just don't use it as much as a bandsaw.I know I am not being normal.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Susumu Mori View Post
    Hi Larry,

    Can you laminate 1/4 board on a plywood sheet without the problem of dimensional change of the solid wood? I wonder how the plywood copes with the expansion and shrinkage of the solid wood layer. I thought the veneer has to be thinner than 1/8 to avoid this problem. Maybe you can get away with it if you laminate the both side? But then you are not saving anything because 2x1/4 would be a 1/2 solid wood board....
    Hmm, This has never been a problem for anything I have done. Have you had problems with this? Also, If there was a problem with expansion/contraction of the 1/4" solid wood trim pieces, wouldn't there be a problem with the face frame as well? I have never had expansion/contraction problems with solid wood face frames attached to a plywood cabinet. I have never even heard of this being a problem.
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Susumu Mori View Post
    I can frequently see tree-cutting fellows cutting down trees in residential areas. Some of the trees looked so nice and I was salivating and wonder where it would go..
    I don't know about other cities but, in Atlanta, there's a popular repository where tree removal companies can drop off usable logs. They are then bought by local sawyers who saw and sell urban harvested lumber. Some sawyers are shy about cutting residential trees, however, because they don't know what's inside them that may cause problems when milling.

    Susumu, you ask very thoughtful questions. I have enjoyed this thread.

  4. #19
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    I sometimes build jewelry and keepsake boxes from expensive hardwoods. I use 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" routinely and 5/8" on occasion. I also do inlays of 3/16" material using a CNC router. Sometimes, the wood needs to be a very precise thickness. I find it both easier and more economical to resaw and plane my own lumber from rough cut rather than trying to find someone who will sell me all those thicknesses of material that are accurate to +/- 0.005" thickness. I don't usually need material wider than 8" and so I use a Craftsman 14" steel frame saw. I bought it for $300 on closeout and it has been a good investment.
    Last edited by Art Mann; 07-30-2014 at 2:36 PM.

  5. #20
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    Often the figure is not going in a direction that make the "factory" edge proper. I frequently (more often than not) cut boards out of material to obtain the figure look I am after. I also resaw for all the other reasons as well but, this is a mainstay for me ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  6. #21
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    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Susumu Mori View Post
    Hi Larry,
    Can you laminate 1/4 board on a plywood sheet without the problem of dimensional change of the solid wood?
    I've done it, and the results are mixed.
    Not all woods are sufficiently stable with the seasons to
    be cut so thick. Not all sections of the tree are dimensionally stable.

    I have one drawer front made from Burr Oak that bent a 1/2" Baltic birch
    into a bowl shape. I can't really use it.

    My latest resawn panels are thinner, about 6mm thick or less.

    It was once common practice to apply "backing" veneer to both sides
    of a panel to equalize the forces.

    When you're dealing with a resawn section as thick as 1/4"
    that can be impractical.

    http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...ker-veneer.htm

  7. #22
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    Feb 2009
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    Fort Collins, CO
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    I can buy hardwood at my local woodcraft store, but the price is usually a fair bit higher than my hardwood supplier. Woodcraft has the advantage that they will often sell S2S, S4S, 1" thick, or 2" thick for the same type of wood. My hardwood supplier will get a delivery of wood and the whole thing might be 2" thick. If I resaw, I can get three boards out of a 2" thick piece depending on the project. I also have a some wood milled when I get the chance to collect some logs from the wood bank or from a local arborist. It's really nice to be able to resaw this lumber to close to final thickness.
    Man advances just in proportion that he mingles thought with his labor. - Ingersoll

  8. #23
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Agusta, GA
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    I use a lot of 1/2" poplar for drawer sides and bottoms. I buy 8/4 and can generally get three, 1/2" pieces out of it. It's a fair bit of labor to do all the sawing and planing, but it's a lot cheaper than buying 4/4 stock and planing it all down.

    On occasion I saw a veneer or two as well.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    I mainly resaw for drawer fronts, for best matching.
    Which is what I did for this tool chest. I also re-sawed to make 3/8" panels for the sides and top.

    100_3067.jpg
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  10. #25
    Thank you all,

    This has been quite a learning to me.
    Based on Yonak's comments, I did some search and found this site;

    http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Resource...tomSawyer.aspx.

    It turns out, there is an urban sawmill that uses local harvests just 30 min from my home!
    I'm very thrilled to visit there and see what I can find. What I like about this idea of using rough lumbers is;
    1) I would get a sense of conserving resources. It's pity to see some lumbers end up in a landfill or become mulch!
    2) Hopefully, it would be cheaper than buying S2S / S4S from wookworking shops.
    3) I can justify my recent upgrade of the bandsaw

    It must be fun to make a furniture from rough lumbers. We'll see.

  11. #26
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    Sep 2013
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    Carrollton, Georgia
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    Susumu, the lumber will be green and that makes proper drying a fundamental issue. It's a great resource and a great course if you know what you're getting into.

  12. #27
    Yeah, I'm thinking about making a space beneath the enclosed deck.
    They also offer "solar klin dried". Not sure what it means.
    I need a space to store them anyway because my basement is already filled.
    I wonder how you guys store rough lumbers.

    At this moment, the most important question is how much cheaper they are. Unless they are much cheaper, buying S2S as we need (therefore no need for a large storage space) may make more sense...

    Quote Originally Posted by Yonak Hawkins View Post
    Susumu, the lumber will be green and that makes proper drying a fundamental issue. It's a great resource and a great course if you know what you're getting into.

  13. #28
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    Feb 2009
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
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    If you go down the road of harvesting your own timber or trying to dry wood that you get from your local sawmill, I highly recommend the book "The Conversion and Seasoning of Wood." It addresses your question about the solar kiln, and it gives a great basic outline for anyone looking to convert timber to lumber.


    51zh4I3NKQL.jpg
    Man advances just in proportion that he mingles thought with his labor. - Ingersoll

  14. #29
    I have harvested and dried my own lumber. It is very doable, but will take some effort, education, time, and space. It's a fun and rewarding process, but you can end up initially with a lot of waste or ugly boards that you probably wouldnt have bought if you had the choice.

    My advice is to start small: get a 24-30" long log that looks clean and clear. Build a bandsaw sled and have a go at resawing it into boards. A smaller log will be easier for you to handle yourself and to assess (when you deal with longer logs, there can be surprises inside).

    Do you have a chainsaw? Cutting logs into workable halves and quarters can often be easier with a chainsaw than on the bandsaw.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Corcoran, MN
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    I have resawed dimensional lumber for the purpose of having it cup. A 2x8 will give me 2 pieces which I plane and/ or joint and set aside for weeks to months. The cupping often results in a fair curve. The pieces are used to make the small boxes and chests I favor. With a shellac/dye finish the result can be elegant.

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