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Thread: why do you resaw?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Carrollton, Georgia
    Posts
    1,815
    Quote Originally Posted by Susumu Mori View Post
    At this moment, the most important question is how much cheaper they are. Unless they are much cheaper, buying S2S as we need (therefore no need for a large storage space) may make more sense...
    There is a compromise. If you are thinking about harvesting and drying lumber then you must have the capacity to surface the rough cut boards. You can buy rough-sawn lumber at a commercial lumber yard that's kiln dried. That would save on surfacing charges to get it to S2S. You could build a simple storage area that's relatively dry and safe from the elements to store it.

    If you do buy green lumber and don't mind waiting a year or so before you can use it, for a significant savings, you could use the same storage area as described above as long as it's, also, well ventilated (passively is OK as long as there good air movement). You should stack it properly and it's a good idea to keep it from drying too much too quickly, especially from the ends (applying a product like AnchorSeal would help in this regard), as well as actively removing the moisture from the area for the first few weeks of being cut, (this may already have occurred at the lumber yard, whether properly done or not could be ascertained by asking them and if they shrug their shoulders you can be pretty sure it wasn't. On the other hand, I have bought some quality lumber from lumber yards that didn't follow recommended procedures. Some of them are somewhat anal-retentive in origin anyway.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    I tend to buy large planks (8/4-12/4, 2" to 3" thick) in the 10-12" wide area around 8-12' long because I can get them at good prices. (I once got 150 bf of hard maple for $4/bf...a very good price here in California, many years ago...I still have two untouched planks left from that...will make a bench top one day)

    It is "fun" wielding large, heavy planks through my joiner/planer and bandsaw to get dimensions I want.

    Cutting up large planks of wood typically yields you better color match for your project.

    Bandsaws tend to be safer than table saws for ripping thick-ish wood. Kickback tends to be less of an issue. Now this doesn't mean that a bandsaw won't cut body parts off...just that kickback, the #1 safety hazard from tables saws, is more or less eliminated in a bandsaw. Bandsaws are the main tool in European shops akin to table saws being the main tool in the US.

    And finally, my main reason for having a nice 20" European bandsaw (MM20) is to saw my own thick (1/16") veneers.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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