Stopped dado with angled sides?

[George Bokros]

I need to make 4 stopped dadoes that have sides at an angle to the face of the stock. The bottom can be either in the same plane as the face of the stock or at 90* to the sides of the dadoes.

A regular angled dado can be cut on the table saw no problem; a stopped dado can be made on the router table no problem but this one has me puzzled. It is for a small project so making a jig would take more time than cutting the dadoes. I am no even sure it could be done with a jig on the router table.

Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks

George

[Mark Bolton]

I need to make 4 stopped dadoes that have sides at an angle to the face of the stock. The bottom can be either in the same plane as the face of the stock or at 90* to the sides of the dadoes.

A regular angled dado can be cut on the table saw no problem; a stopped dado can be made on the router table no problem but this one has me puzzled. It is for a small project so making a jig would take more time than cutting the dadoes. I am no even sure it could be done with a jig on the router table.

Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks

George

How steep of an angle? Shop made wedge bolted the bottom of the router? Ride along a clamped straight edge?

[George Bokros]

How steep of an angle? Shop made wedge bolted the bottom of the router? Ride along a clamped straight edge?

Probably 20 to 25 degrees off vertical

George

[Mark Bolton]

Wondering if even a square router base with a block the length of the base double stick taped to one edge would get it? No idea how precise/accurate it have to be but if it were only a couple that'd probably be my approach.

[Ken Andersen]

Tilt dado blade in the table saw. Lower blade so it is flush to the table. Now you can set your fence (so the top most part of the blade meets the appropriate side of dado location). Now raise the blade to the depth you want for the dado. Mark the table top where the (highest) blade meets the table. From these add the amount you want the dado set back from the edges of the work piece, and make new marks. These will be your start and stop locations. Now lower the blade below the table, **keeping track** of how
much you lowered it. Place work piece against fence with leading edge on the start mark. Turn on saw. While firmly holding the work piece in place, raise the blade slowly to the required level (you kept track, remember!). Now push the work piece forward until the stop mark appears. Stop the saw, lower the blade. You're done except for the usual chisel work at the stopped ends.

[Jamie Buxton]

Do the walls of the dado tilt in or out? That is, would a dovetail router bit cut your dado?

[George Bokros]

Let's try another approach to this issue. Attached is a picture of the project where I was planning to use the stopped dado. How would you attach the tray sides to the drawer cabinet? I was planning to use stopped dadoes but it seems that cutting a stopped dado on an angle to the face is not working out.

My version will not be primitive as the pic shows.

How would you suggest the sides of the tray top be attached to the drawer cabinet?

Thanks

George



TrenchwPushThroughDrawers.jpg

[Al Launier]

Well, my approach would be to use a router as that is much smaller than a TS saw blade allowing you to get closer to the corner. I would make "wedge board" of the same angle as the boards when they are assembled. Setup the wedge board on the outer table parallel to the fence. Place the actual board on the wedge board & adjust the distance away from the fence. Once correct, block around the outer edges of the actual board for use on the remaining boards. Then set a block on the router fence to stop the router cut where you want it. Proceed to route the slot. You should be able to rout the slot long enough, but short of the end of the boards, to accept the tray. If not, the uncut ends of the slot could be chiseled to finish the stopped slot. If you can get the router to slot close enough to the end, you could cut a modified miter at each corner of the tray just enough to fit

[Bill Huber]

I don't know the true answer to your question but this is what I would do.

I don't see why you need to cut any grooves, make the tray sides, glue them up and then glue them to the cabinet. If you wanted a little more just use like 4 to 8 dowels, 2 on each side and glue it together.

[Mark Bolton]

I agree with Bill, I'd just glue it on there but you'd have to watch the cross grain on the short sides depending on how the top is constructed.

[scott vroom]

Yep...I think Bill has it right. I'd make the top first then glue it to the base.....don't see a need for dados. You could use a couple of dowels on each side for alignment if necessary.

[Peter Quinn]

Make the tray base out of plywood, rabbit the bottom edge of the tray molding on a beveled fence so the rabbit is 90 degrees to the bottom edge, glue and tack the plywood into the rabbit from below, secure to cabinet like a counter top from inside of cabinet up. Or you could create a flat at the bottom inside edge of the tray molding like a crown sprin angle, think plumb with the wall, then let a groove into that and float a solid panel.

[George Bokros]

I am now thinking of making the tray with its own bottom then use dowels to position it and glue it down. The tray would have an inset bottom so as not make the drawer cabinet top appear to thick.

I would make the bottom of the drawer cabinet and bottom of the tray 3/4" stock and all the rest would be 1/2" stock. The drawer cabinet base will be slightly larger than the cabinet sides and have a cove or ogee edge.

Thanks for the suggestions.

George

[Peter Quinn]

I think if you give the tray it's own bottom let into a rabbit in the bottom edge of the tray molding that eliminates the stopped rabbit, let's the two pieces be attached without being captive and creating wood movement issues. My preference for a tray bottom would be 3/8" BB plywood with 1/16" shop sawn veneers attached to both faces in vacuum press, avoids that "plywood" veneer look, gives more durability.

[Mark Bolton]

I think if you give the tray it's own bottom let into a rabbit in the bottom edge of the tray molding that eliminates the stopped rabbit, let's the two pieces be attached without being captive and creating wood movement issues. My preference for a tray bottom would be 3/8" BB plywood with 1/16" shop sawn veneers attached to both faces in vacuum press, avoids that "plywood" veneer look, gives more durability.

Zoikes.. That'll be one expensive little drawer box ;-) I thought initially he said "its a small project" with regards to jig making..