What's the best way to square off the end of a 4x4?

[lowell holmes]

The question was not specific if the post is in the shop or in the field.

If your building a wooden fence, you might very well set all of the posts, string a line to mark the tops of the posts, and then cut the posts to level the top of the fence.

If that is the case , a speed square and circular saw is a good way to go. You notice I didn't say only way to go.

I prefer to finish the cut with a handsaw because I find it quicker than having to level the square and circular saw with the previous cut.

If you are in the shop, a band saw with a miter gauge is hard to beat.

[scott vroom]

A chain saw makes quick work of softwood fence post tops.

[Jason Roehl]

Are you holding the speed square with your hand and using it as a guide, or clamping it?

Holding and guiding. Align the stopped blade with the kerf after rotating the post 90º, then butt the speed square up to the saw's base and the post.

[scott vroom]

Holding and guiding. Align the stopped blade with the kerf after rotating the post 90º, then butt the speed square up to the saw's base and the post.

Not sure I'd wanna be holding a speed square inches from a spinning blade while holding the saw sideways one handed against a post..... When I've used a speed square I've used it to draw a straight line around the post, make the first cut then make the second cut on the 90 degree face, using the first cut for alignment, with both hands on the saw, and then follow the pencil mark around until the cut is complete. Doesn't have to be perfect. Matter of fact, lotta folks recommend cutting posts off at a slight angle to discourage standing water on the end grain.

[David Winer]

I just have to put in my two cents. My next door neighbors and I have put in a lot of fence posts, some 4x4, some 4x6, some 6x6. I made a circular saw guide-jig of wood to set the saw on. When it came time to cut the tops we attached the jig to the posts with deck screws using a drill/driver. This made nice clean cuts. We finished the tops by beveling a large 45 degree with a router.

One guy on the ladder. Other guy handing up drill/driver, saw, unscrew drill/driver, and router in turn. Worked nicely.

[Jack Jackson]

On how to use a stop on a miter saw (or table saw either way) - I simply square the post up on the miter saw fence and take the thinnest slice possible to square one end, using the cut - turn - align kerf and cut again method; then I just use that end to push against the stop and that gives you a square end (since you kept the post squared against the saw's fence on each cut). It sounds much more complicated than it is since the first cut is simply done by eye then the next cut is just pushed against a stop. For example, if you're stop is on the left, then start with the board on the right hand side of the blade, cut your thin slice to square that end then just slide it over to the stop and make the next cut.. repeat. Once it's set up it goes really fast and you can be sure that they are all exactly square and exactly the same length.

[Keith Weber]

You have a Kapex, and you have to ask?

[Alan Lightstone]

You have a Kapex, and you have to ask?

Yeah, because my initial attempts weren't perfect.

It's not in the field, it's in my workshop.

The bandsaw is tempting also. I'm thinking a 3/4" blade and a crosscut sled would work.

I did the first one with the Kapex. I found that if I cut too deep the first time with the Kapex then the wood would flex the cutoff piece and not make a square top. Hard to figure out how much tension to put on that.

I like the pull saw idea, but don't have one.

[Jason Roehl]

Not sure I'd wanna be holding a speed square inches from a spinning blade while holding the saw sideways one handed against a post..... When I've used a speed square I've used it to draw a straight line around the post, make the first cut then make the second cut on the 90 degree face, using the first cut for alignment, with both hands on the saw, and then follow the pencil mark around until the cut is complete. Doesn't have to be perfect. Matter of fact, lotta folks recommend cutting posts off at a slight angle to discourage standing water on the end grain.

I was thinking in terms of cutting the post to length as it sits horizontal on sawhorses. For a vertical post in the ground, the suggestion of a jig screwed to the post sounds good to me, though I'd probably just trace the line around the post and cut to the line.

[Keith Weber]

I did the first one with the Kapex. I found that if I cut too deep the first time with the Kapex then the wood would flex the cutoff piece and not make a square top. Hard to figure out how much tension to put on that.

I'm not sure what "flex the cutoff piece" means. I'll make an assumption and assume that you meant that the blade was flexing to the side when you cut into the wood. If that's the case, then you're probably just feeding it too hard. Take it slow and let the saw do the work. I have a Makita, not a Kapex, but I can't see why taking a half-depth cut on one side and then flipping it over for the finish cut wouldn't work. I've done that on my Makita, and on my old Cabinet Saw (with a Exaktor Slider) and they both worked fine. If they're not cutting square, then they're probably not set up properly. Check your setup with a good-quality square.

[Dave Zellers]

I think he means after the first cut, if the stop only touches the thin waste piece, it can flex into the kerf throwing off the setup. Seems like this would never be a problem if the stop is big enough to always touch an uncut part of the end.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Sharp handsaw, western style, with care in laying out cut lines.

[keith micinski]

I think he means after the first cut, if the stop only touches the thin waste piece, it can flex into the kerf throwing off the setup. Seems like this would never be a problem if the stop is big enough to always touch an uncut part of the end.

I do the opposite, make a cut then remove the piece and have your stop only be high enough to touch the freshly cut half. Then you can square up the other end and flip it end for end now you have the freshly cut squared end touching the stop.

[keith micinski]

Although my answer is to use my twelve inch Milwaukee scms. This is actually the main reason I decided to keep it even though I don't use it that much.

[Alan Lightstone]

I do the opposite, make a cut then remove the piece and have your stop only be high enough to touch the freshly cut half. Then you can square up the other end and flip it end for end now you have the freshly cut squared end touching the stop.

I'd like to think that has been the case, but it hasn't. Perhaps I'm taking too deep a cut with my first pass. Or need to be more gentle moving the half-cut piece towards the stop block.