Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Recommendation for a "clear" woodworking adhesive

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bedford, NH
    Posts
    1,286

    Recommendation for a "clear" woodworking adhesive

    I'm making several bandsaw boxes as Santa Sleighs. I will be painting the outsides red & the inside green with a gold(?) edge trimming along the top edges.

    I have each side of the sleigh "blind doweled" to the inner body so that I can sand everything together as an assembly, yet be able to remove the sides as necessary & then reassemble them to the body using the dowels to keep everything aligned the same way each time. I plan on painting the sides & body as individual pieces as I am not good at masking, which I would have to do if I were to paint everything while assembled & glued. Yet I am concerned that when I do glue, reassemble & clamp things up after painting the glue squeeze-out along the edges will be difficult to thoroughly clean up so it doesn't show. So, I was wondering if there is a clear woodworking glue, comparable to Titebond II, that is available on the market. I think this may be my best chance for a decent looking paint job without the uncleaned glue showing.

    Another thought that just occurred to me is that if using a damp cloth to immediately remove the glue squeeze-out, the residual damp glue wouldn't saturate the pieces as when raw wood, as the pieces are painted. Would you agree?

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Keith Outten; 08-03-2014 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Removed link to Forum
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    "We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
    “The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
    "
    Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Bend IN 46613
    Posts
    843
    We use damp rags all the time to wipe glue, very effective. I think that would be your best bet.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "You don't have to give birth to someone to have a family." (Sandra Bullock)




  3. #3
    Nexabond is clear. It is a new generation of CA glue. I use it often. Woodcraft, Amazon, Rockler and others sell it. They have a 1 to 3 minute set and a 3 to 5 minute set. No joint swelling as there is no water involved. Glue cleanup with a carbide scraper is easy after set.

    Jack

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,017
    Another thought that just occurred to me is that if using a damp cloth to immediately remove the glue squeeze-out, the residual damp glue wouldn't saturate the pieces as when raw wood, as the pieces are painted. Would you agree?
    Correct. I just finished gluing face frames to the box of a roll around kitchen cart I'm making.
    I put poly on the case and left the face frames unfinished.
    I used Titebond Translucent glue, A damp cloth cleaned it off the wood with the finish on it very easily. The unfinished wood of the face frames cleaned up with a little more effort.
    I'm sure part of the extra effort was my fault for letting it set up too long.

    The Translucent dries much quicker than the Titebond II.

    When dried, the product is crystal clear and nearly invisible.

    FWIW - I picked it up - the glue - @ Menards only because it was free after a rebate.
    It's decent stuff. I'd use it again for a vertical surface because it's made thicker so it wont clump or run when applied to a vertical surface.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Fort Wayne IN
    Posts
    1,210
    I have used masking tape on inside corners sometimes. Keeps the glue off the wood. +1 for a damp rag. I have also had good luck with Titebond translucent.

    Have fun with your projects...
    Sometimes decisions from the heart are better than decisions from the brain.

    Enjoy Life...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bedford, NH
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanks Guys, appreciate the feedback.
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    "We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
    “The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
    "
    Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,569
    There's another option if you need a long open time - Roo Clear. It dries clear and is also useful for gluing dissimilar materials like metal, melamine & vinyl. It is hard - no make that impossible - to find at retail. Western Tool and Woodworkers Hardware via Amazon are the only retail sources I know.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Bedford, NH
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanks Curt, I'll certainly keep your recommendation in mind for other materials that I may get into.
    Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
    As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!

    "We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
    “The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
    "
    Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,564
    Tite Bond Melamine glue dries clear. Rockler does not carry it, but my local hardwood/plywood carrier does.

    That would be Cherokee Hardwoods, Upland, if someone happens to live in my area.

    Rick P
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 08-03-2014 at 6:55 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Quote Originally Posted by Raymond Fries View Post
    I have used masking tape on inside corners sometimes. Keeps the glue off the wood. +1 for a damp rag. I have also had good luck with Titebond translucent.

    Have fun with your projects...
    +1 on careful taping of the joints.
    You may need to burnish the tape, to get the best coverage.

    Don't leave the tape on the joint long, the adhesive dries and can be difficult to remove.

    This is a regular feature of David Marks' videos.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •