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Thread: Cleaning Laser Bed?

  1. #1
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    Cleaning Laser Bed?

    Anyone have good tips on cleaning the tar/resin/smoke residue from an aluminum laser bed? I want to nip it in the bud before it gets too thick and thus harder to clean. The bed is not easily removable so short of dismantling a bunch of the machine, it has to be done in the machine.

    I know Easy-Off would do it but thats nasty corrosive stuff and I am not putting it anywhere near electronics. I also considered turpentine as its derived from pine sap/resin and I thought it would dissolve the tar and resins. But I am leery about putting that in the machine as well.

    When I first got the machine, I did cut stuff directly on the bed. Yea, mistake, I know. I have learned to lift the workpiece from the bed when cutting through now. But still some smoke does hit it and carry new deposits onto it. So I am trying to learn how to clean it now, before I really need to. And I am pretty sure those deposits are flammable. Not a good thing with a 50w laser aimed right at it.

  2. #2
    Super clean from walmart works great, Vinegar and water works petty good also. I just spray the super clean on and wipe off, vinegar and water spray on let soak a few min's then wipe off.
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  3. #3
    We sprayed our with some eco friendly krud remover and used a high pressure water spray at from the car wash. Worked great!

  4. #4
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    Krud Cutter is the best that I have found.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    Super clean from walmart works great, Vinegar and water works petty good also. I just spray the super clean on and wipe off, vinegar and water spray on let soak a few min's then wipe off.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Harman View Post
    Krud Cutter is the best that I have found.
    Ok, will see if local stores have those. I think I remember seeing Krud Cutter at Home Depot the other day when I was in there but will make sure its the correct stuff. Yall sure they are safe around electronics and the motors?


    Quote Originally Posted by Clark Pace View Post
    We sprayed our with some eco friendly krud remover and used a high pressure water spray at from the car wash. Worked great!
    Well, since I can't remove my bed without significant disassembly, as I noted above, I don't think I will be hauling it to the carwash

  6. #6
    I use Pledge.
    Laser: ULS M300-50 watts, ULS X25-75 watt, Chinese 100 and 150 watt
    Software: Corel Draw, Corel PhotoPaint X8, Aspire, MasterCam, Fusion 360
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  7. #7
    Buy a pint of Everclear at the liquor store. If you are not happy with the job it does, just drink the rest.
    Pete James
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  8. #8
    get some xylene or Goof off (which has xylene in it), some denatured alcohol, and some Fantastik. And lots of paper towels. And some rubber or nitrile gloves.

    First, douse the table with Fantastik, let it soak, then wipe it out. This will remove the basic crud.

    Then turn on the blower because the fumes are horrible, soak a couple of paper towels with xylene, and wipe the table. This is to remove ALL cutting residue from cutting plastics. I usually have to run 2 towels worth over my table. Wipe dry afterwards.

    Then use the alcohol, this will remove the residue from wood cutting the xylene missed, and will remove permanent marker (I use the table for notes)... Wipe dry.

    Then another shot of Fantasik.

    I'm also not shy about using razor blades and scotchbrite pads to clean up...
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
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    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    get some xylene or Goof off (which has xylene in it), some denatured alcohol, and some Fantastik. And lots of paper towels. And some rubber or nitrile gloves.

    First, douse the table with Fantastik, let it soak, then wipe it out. This will remove the basic crud.

    Then turn on the blower because the fumes are horrible, soak a couple of paper towels with xylene, and wipe the table. This is to remove ALL cutting residue from cutting plastics. I usually have to run 2 towels worth over my table. Wipe dry afterwards.

    Then use the alcohol, this will remove the residue from wood cutting the xylene missed, and will remove permanent marker (I use the table for notes)... Wipe dry.

    Then another shot of Fantasik.

    I'm also not shy about using razor blades and scotchbrite pads to clean up...
    Seriously Kev/ way to much work. like i said before just pick up a $7 gallon of super clean from walmart auto dept. put some in a spray bottle and gently spray the alum bed, wipe off with a few paper towels. I also take my honycomb to the kitchen sink or out side when ol ladies home LOL sray it and hose right off. quick easy and does the job. I've tried verything else and this is the best for me
    If the Help and advice you received here was of any VALUE to you PLEASE! Become a Contributor
    Rabbit RL_XX_6040-60 watt Laser engraving/cutting machine Oh wait its a 3D Printer my bad LOL
    Lasercut 5.3
    CorelDraw X5

    10" Miter Saw with slide
    10" Table Saw
    8" bench mount 5 speed Drill Press
    Dremel, 3x21 Belt Sander


  10. #10
    Just an aside, but if remember that if you're using something that creates a lot of fumes it may stick to your lenses.
    Example, Easy Off Oven cleaner would work as well, but I don't want that in my machine.
    It does however, work great for the honeycomb done outside.
    Cheers!
    Laser: ULS M300-50 watts, ULS X25-75 watt, Chinese 100 and 150 watt
    Software: Corel Draw, Corel PhotoPaint X8, Aspire, MasterCam, Fusion 360
    CNC: Rockler 60th Anniversary Edition CNC Shark, EZ-Route CNC
    Kingsley Hot Stamp machine
    "Out of my mind....Back in 5 minutes"

  11. #11
    Have you tried using a Magic Eraser? It does wonders and you can find them at the grocery store for only a few dollars.
    I read recipes the same way I read science fiction. I get to the end and I think, "Well, that’s not going to happen."

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicolas Silva View Post
    Just an aside, but if remember that if you're using something that creates a lot of fumes it may stick to your lenses.
    Example, Easy Off Oven cleaner would work as well, but I don't want that in my machine.
    It does however, work great for the honeycomb done outside.
    Cheers!
    Yes, I use easy off cleaner on my grill (cooking grill...outside). Its very caustic and can be corrosive to bare soft metals. I would NEVER use it in the laser machine itself.

    I am surprised its ok on your honeycomb. I thought it reacted with aluminum. Hasn't been a issue for you?
    [SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
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  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Audleman View Post
    I am surprised its ok on your honeycomb. I thought it reacted with aluminum. Hasn't been a issue for you?
    When I first bought my laser, my salesman told me to clean it with easy off. You know that saying about hindsight ... the salesman disappeared shortly after the sale was made. That cleaner was very caustic to my honeycomb. It made it so gunk sticks even worse then before.
    I read recipes the same way I read science fiction. I get to the end and I think, "Well, that’s not going to happen."

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Chance in Iowa View Post
    When I first bought my laser, my salesman told me to clean it with easy off. You know that saying about hindsight ... the salesman disappeared shortly after the sale was made. That cleaner was very caustic to my honeycomb. It made it so gunk sticks even worse then before.
    Not surprising. Its been an "underground" tool to remove anodizing on aluminum pieces for years. I suppose we could use it too eh? Laser cut a mask. Spray easy off on the exposed areas. Wait 5 minutes and then wipe the anodizing right off. But, on bare aluminum, I would assume it would eat into the surface like an acid etch would. Probably why stuff sticks to your honeycomb more now. Its got more surface area to sink its teeth into.
    [SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
    Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer

    Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
    Modo, Bryce, Poser


    If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
    That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age

  15. #15
    It has not been a issue thus far, but then the cutting table doesn't get used (or cleaned) a lot.
    Laser: ULS M300-50 watts, ULS X25-75 watt, Chinese 100 and 150 watt
    Software: Corel Draw, Corel PhotoPaint X8, Aspire, MasterCam, Fusion 360
    CNC: Rockler 60th Anniversary Edition CNC Shark, EZ-Route CNC
    Kingsley Hot Stamp machine
    "Out of my mind....Back in 5 minutes"

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