Planning really wide surfaces like a table top

[Judson Green]

So I'm making a kitchen table and the top is about 45" square, I've managed to do OK.... I think.

I glued and flattened the top progressively (three chunks), but still will need some flatten near its completion. A top this size I can reach to the center well enough, but got to wondering how would ya do a wider and longer table top?

[Brian Holcombe]

Judson, do you happen to have a long, precision ground straight edge?

[Daniel Rode]

If it's too big to reach across, I guess you have to climb on top

So I'm making a kitchen table and the top is about 45" square, I've managed to do OK.... I think.

I glued and flattened the top progressively (three chunks), but still will need some flatten near its completion. A top this size I can reach to the center well enough, but got to wondering how would ya do a wider and longer table top?

[David Weaver]

So I'm making a kitchen table and the top is about 45" square, I've managed to do OK.... I think.

I glued and flattened the top progressively (three chunks), but still will need some flatten near its completion. A top this size I can reach to the center well enough, but got to wondering how would ya do a wider and longer table top?

I would otherwise joint it from whatever side I could reach it, etc, and then I'd put it on the floor and finish plane it with through strokes.

[Judson Green]

Daniel and David

That's what I was asking about, the physicality of the task. I was thinking of the same thing, climbing on, but was wondering/hoping there might be a better way. Perhaps that plane rope and winch?

[Daniel Rode]

Careful, planing rope is only good for edge jointing. For face planing you need flexible twisted wire. I prefer brass 1/16" but 3/16" will work in pinch. A small dowel on at the end of the wire makes a nice handle to prevent cuts and abrasions. I've heard of people using copper electrical wire but it seems dangerous to me.

Daniel and David

That's what I was asking about, the physicality of the task. I was thinking of the same thing, climbing on, but was wondering/hoping there might be a better way. Perhaps that plane rope and winch?

[Prashun Patel]

For table tops that are too wide to reach from one side, I just plane from both sides.

For table tops that are too long to do in smooth strokes, I just go as far as I can reach.

The nice thing about table tops is that they don't have to be perfectly, globally, flat; they only need to LOOK that way, so doing it in sections and making sure each section is locally, approximately flat is good enough.

[Brian Holcombe]

That's sort of what I'm driving at, with the aide of a straight edge you can do 95% of it cutting to the halfway point of the table. After that, lay it on the floor.

[Zach Dillinger]

For table tops that are too wide to reach from one side, I just plane from both sides.

For table tops that are too long to do in smooth strokes, I just go as far as I can reach.

The nice thing about table tops is that they don't have to be perfectly, globally, flat; they only need to LOOK that way, so doing it in sections and making sure each section is locally, approximately flat is good enough.

+1 to this post. Do what you can, and just like about 99% of things in woodworking, if it looks right it is right.

[Judson Green]

Careful, planing rope is only good for edge jointing. For face planing you need flexible twisted wire. I prefer brass 1/16" but 3/16" will work in pinch. A small dowel on at the end of the wire makes a nice handle to prevent cuts and abrasions. I've heard of people using copper electrical wire but it seems dangerous to me.

Well of course that makes perfect sense, why didn't I think of that.

[Judson Green]

Okely dokely, thanks guys!

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I would probably get as much as I could by what ever means to make it look good, and, I might use something like the Festool half sheet sander (RS2E). It is supposed to excel at this sort of thing.

[Steve Friedman]

I know this isn't the right forum, but what about a router sled?

I can't find it now, but I recall seeing a video of two Japanese woodworkers working together with a plane - one pulling the other pushing. That might work. Or, just find a friend with longer arms. Better yet, find a friend with a flat belt sander.

I agree with Prashun as well. Not only doesn't it have to be perfectly flat, but even if you managed to flatten it, the top is going to move over time anyway.

Steve

[Daniel Rode]

Honestly, a router or a belt sander would be harder. Reaching the middle with a router is no easier and a jig must be created. Moreover, a router wont create a finished surface, so sanding or planing will be required after.

I know this isn't the right forum, but what about a router sled?

I can't find it now, but I recall seeing a video of two Japanese woodworkers working together with a plane - one pulling the other pushing. That might work. Or, just find a friend with longer arms. Better yet, find a friend with a flat belt sander.

I agree with Prashun as well. Not only doesn't it have to be perfectly flat, but even if you managed to flatten it, the top is going to move over time anyway.

Steve

[Augusto Orosco]

If Ethan Hunt were a woodworker, for him this would be non issue... (well, as long as he could solve the issue of how to push the plane instead of the plane pushing him... but if you can joint edges with a rope and a super sharp plane, leverage is not needed)