Workbench options

[Matthew Hills]

Keep things simple

Try this:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...9949332C7FB168

or maybe this:
http://lostartpress.com/collections/...ked-woodworker
(I don't have this DVD)


Matt

[Matt Lau]

I second the Grammercy holdfast suggestion.
I got them for my birthday last year, and they are a pleasure to use.
They are so nice, that I'm thinking of making my future setups around 3/4" holes just to use them.

I'm using a blum workbench, but a couple layers of plywood with 3/4" holes should work fine.
Dog holes are also useful, as are Veritas Bench dogs.

However, I totally will not give up my holdfasts.

EDIT:
If I was to have only one "ultimate" workbench (and knew I wasn't moving), I'd probably make a Nicholson style bench with plywood and construction lumber.
With holdfasts, there is ridiculously quick clamping both vertically and horizontally. It will not rack or move due to good lateral support. It will take a lot less time and materials than a Roubo. I really like having a line of dogholes to change the height of the clamping using nothing more than bench dogs. YMMV

[James Ziegler]

Keep things simple

Try this:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...9949332C7FB168

or maybe this:
http://lostartpress.com/collections/...ked-woodworker
(I don't have this DVD)


Matt

Or, along the lines of that second link, this one:

http://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09...son-workbench/

I'm currently building one, and it got off to a pretty good start. It's a pretty simple build (although I recommend a circular saw to cut the 2x12s, not a handsaw) and seems like a good design. It's inspired by the naked woodworked design (I also have that video, and it looks like a good design too).

I plan to add some additional dog hole so I can use holdfasts to attach a Moxon style vise to the front. I might also think about a full row of dog hole running from the planing stop, and a Veritas inset vise at the far end from the planing stop.

[Marko Milisavljevic]

My newbie opinion is that there are only 2 benches a new woodworker should consider, if they are trying to build a "serious" workbench: traditional english bench or roubo bench. That is because for english bench there is an excellent series of videos by Peter Sellers on YouTube, and for Roubo-style bench there are excellent and inexpensive plans by Benchcrafted, in addition to many documented builds on forums and blogs. Both will make a great general-purpose woodworking bench, and hand-holding these resources provide is invaluable.

[Mike Holbrook]

There are two good videos you might find helpful. Chris Schwarz discusses and demonstrates lots of options in his video "The Workbench". Bob Lang has a video on his nice Roubo type design "Build the 21st Century Workbench". Bob even posts here occasionally. He posted on one of my workbench post confiding in a couple changes he would make if he built the bench again. Bob's is a relatively simple design that can be broken down into basic components for moving yet is very sturdy. Drawings and a SketchUp are on the DVD.

[Adam Stevens2]

I've decided to go down the road of basically rebuilding my current bench, using a bunch of pine to make the frame with and a solid core door for the top for the time being (to be replaced by something a bit better later). Alas, I basically have my top sitting on the old bench frame, which was very poorly made and I am trying to figure out a way to flatten the laminated parts of the frame. Will I be able to attach a vise to the benchtop without having it shift all over the place on me, or some other stopping system? I am sure this is a basic question.

[Jim Matthews]

I recommend one lag screw, right through the center of each crossmember (from underneath) into your benchtop.

Shim on either side to get close to flat.

Vises that are fixed to the benchtop should use
solid lag bolts, predrilled so you don't shear the head off.

Nothing wrong with a simple vise, plenty can be done if it has enough clearance.
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/...bench/page/all

Use a little wax on the threads to make it a little easier on yourself.

[gregory young]

Mines a little hoopty but ill throw it out there..the rear vise is odd , but i sorta like it..014.jpg

[Mark AJ Allen]

I was in your situation a few years ago...best advise I have is to pick up the most recent version of Chris Schwarz book on benches, read it, ask questions, read it again then cherry pick what you like / need from each type of bench and create your own configuration.

Ditto. In fact, both his books on the subject have many takeaways and it was all the information I needed when I did the research to make my bench. IIRC, the first one breaks down all the 'typical' activities and (in his opinion) the best ways to hold them to execute them; this information seems directly inline with what the OP is asking. For me the best ways are traditional because I'm primarily hand tools; holdfasts, benchstops/dogs. (though I do love the LV tail vice)

[Mike Holbrook]

I like videos. Schwarz's DVD "The Workbench- How to Design or Modify a Bench for Efficient Use" goes over most methods for holding work for working the different types of sides/grains. He demonstrates ways to make an existing bench better and in the process builds a knowledge base that is helpful when one takes the plunge and makes a new bench from scratch.

My other favorite Workbench DVD is Bob Lang's "Build the 21st-Century Workbench". Bob goes over practical methods for building a bench that can be taken apart for moving. He even has Schwarz visit to discuss a few final design considerations. Bob's design is the one I find most attractive and judge other designs by. Bob does some things differently than Chris, split bench with removable tool wells, wider bench....Bob has posted on these pages several times in the past. He is apparently happy with his design several years after making and using it. He mentions changing two things: making the front half of the split larger in relation to the back split and reducing the size of the removable trays a little.

I am rebuilding two old workbenches that are small and not heavy enough. One for my home, one for my business on the same property, but far enough away to need it's own bench. Then I will build another bench or two, so I am wading similar waters.

[Adam Stevens2]

Jim, this sounds good. I actually have lag screws- that's how the last bench top was attached. Good advice on shimming to get it to flat - that was my main concern, given the issues with the old frame.

[Adam Stevens2]

I've added a face vice to the bench as of this afternoon. Seems to be functioning reasonably well. Now I think I'll add dogholes in a line from the vice towards the parallel edge. It's also recommended to drill a hole in the top of face of the vice for a bench dog as well, right?

IMG_20141123_164723.jpg

[Lee Reep]

I went a different route, and maybe one worth considering to some. Last year I bought a Festool track saw to make it easier to break down full sheets of plywood for cabinets. My smallish basement shop and contractor-style saw made it very difficult to work with full sheets of plywood. I did not want to invest in Festool's MFT since it was smaller then I wanted. I needed a full sized workbench, but wanted the 20mm holes for use with Festool and other bench dogs and accessories.

I was ready to build a Paulk Workbench, but decided I wanted a permanent bench for my shop. I did not need the cabability to break down and transport the bench, which is a key design element for the Paulk bench. Instead I chose to build an MFT-style bench that could double as an outfeed table for my table saw. I am currently adding an end vise to the table, on the close end in the picture, opposite the table saw end. (I'd recommend Googling Paulk Workbench if you aren't familiar -- Ron Paulk has designed several ingenious workbenches for the Festool track saw and miter saw.)

I will also add some skirting around the top's perimeter with 20mm holes, to enable vertical clamping and support for project pieces. I use 20mm dogs to hold work pieces, jigs, and some portable tools. For example, I use an arbor press to assemble pens turned on my lathe, and I have mounted the arbor press to a piece of wood that has holes for 20mm dogs. I have a set of long Parf Dogs (Lee Valley) that I drop thru the holes in arbor base and into the top, making a simple way to firmly anchor a tool that does not need a permanent bench location in my shop.

If Festool products might be in your future, this type of workbench is very versatile. I had access to a machine shop for doing the CNC milling, but many people have found a local CNC shop that can custom mill a top to their liking. I used 3/4" MDF, same as used on Festool's MFT. It has plenty of support from the 2X4 and 4X4 structure under it. It was a simple way to get started, to test out the workbench. After one year of using it, I've found it to be ably suited to my needs, although not as elegant perhaps as a workbench built from fine hardwoods. (My goal is to fill our home with fine hardwood cabinets and other items made on this workbench ... )

mft-xl,2.jpg

[ken hatch]

Making workbenches is fun, and I have a Roubo in the works myself, but if your current bench is decently stout and stable you can make it function pretty well by just installing a cast iron vise and screwing down 1/4" thick strips of wood as planing stops. For my current (semi-temporary) bench I bought some 1/4" poplar at the home center and countersunk holes for some #8 screws. I can fasten them at the ends and sides of a work piece to keep it in place while planing the faces, with no clamps to get in the way of my plane. It is really versatile and doesn't distort the wood like a tail-vise can. It's worked so well that I keep putting off finishing the Roubo, ha. The downside is you are screwing into the bench, which is ugly and eventually will cause the top to need wear out (although I think that will take a LONG time, especially if you take care to re-use screw holes as much as possible.)

Anyways, just a thought on a way to keep you going without dropping big coin and lots of time on a new bench (not that there's anything wrong with that!)

Must be because it seems I'm always making one :-).

I'm helping (I'm pretty much doing the building) a friend build one in my shop just a couple of months after finishing my last build. I think most new builds are over thunk, as I've posted before build it simple and quick. Work on it for awhile, build another making changes, then work on that one for awhile and so on. About your third or fourth bench You will know what works and what is not worth the trouble and if you want then build your final "pretty" bench. I'll bet if you do it that way by the finial bench you will be surprised at how simple it will be, most of the in fashion today "must haves" will be left off and you will have a bench that works for the way you work with nothing that gets in the way.

ken

[Jim Koepke]

I've added a face vice to the bench as of this afternoon. Seems to be functioning reasonably well. Now I think I'll add dogholes in a line from the vice towards the parallel edge. It's also recommended to drill a hole in the top of face of the vice for a bench dog as well, right?

IMG_20141123_164723.jpg

Mine is set up with two holes to be able to clamp large or odd shaped items.

My bench came with 3/4" (19mm) holes. Before drilling holes make sure you have settled on your dogs. Trying to make a hole larger is a pain. Not as much as trying to make it smaller.

jtk