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Thread: Makita Saw just stopped working - help please?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    868
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    And Duane are you saying a thermal overload of the motor itself- so a new motor needed?
    .
    Sam,

    Read my post above a second time. It is VERY unlikely that the motor is the problem. If you want to eliminate the motor as the problem hook a 110 vac cord to the two wires feeding it and plug it in. The motor running will tell you it is not the problem.

    Did you you check all connections for tightness? It is necessary that you do this.

    It it is a simple circuit and probably a simple fix providing that the information you supplied is valid.

    I am am sure that you can fix the problem. Would be much simpler if you had the ability to make voltage measurements.

    By by the way, it is possible to have "power" at any point in a circuit and still have the circuit not operate if the neutral (grounded conductor) is open. A non contact voltage sensor can be misleading if used for troubleshooting.

    Bill
    Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!

  2. #17
    You really need a test meter or a test light to help you troubleshoot your saw troubles. Otherwise, you're just shooting in the dark. So far, new switch, new brushes, and blowing out dust without ever knowing the culprit. You're trying to "get lucky" here!
    Last edited by Bill Orbine; 08-29-2014 at 7:39 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Lexington, Oh
    Posts
    509
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post

    And Duane are you saying a thermal overload of the motor itself- so a new motor needed?

    I do take this saw with me out to jobs but I work alone ann am not abusive - otherwise the saw stays on its bench in the shop. It is a pretty pampered tool. Can't imagine broken internal wires.
    You should have power( 120VAC ) between pins 2 and 4 of the switch with the switch on. If so the problem is either in the internal wiring or the motor itself. Whether it seem possible or not, wires can break. Vibration from the saw itself is the usual cause. In most case a wire including the power cord will fail at one end or the other. That is usually the points of most stress.

    Yes the thermal switch is in the motor... may or may not be easily changeable.

    With a new switch and brushes, the choices are getting fairly slim if you are indeed getting power out of the switch.

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