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Thread: What oil do you use to wipe your tools?

  1. #31
    Snake oil works best, but it's expensive!

    My garage/shop hovers at 75-80% humidity in the summer which is May-Sept (no salty air though). 3-in-1 machine oil or WD-40. I like the smell of 3 in 1 a bit better. Paste wax works fine for TS, jointer tables, etc. but less so w/ plane soles and other metal bodies.

  2. #32
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    beeswax
    I love it.
    Now you are talking. It was good enough for the Pharaohs.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  3. #33
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    Cool Yah, PSst . . . hey buddy . . . yah you commmea

    Snake oil works best, but it's expensive!
    Sam,
    Yah about that . . . I could see my way clear to cutting my price to you if you could maybe like buy a few more vials . . . aaaaahhhhh . . . maybe like lay your source of bliss on your friends.
    Hey, you would be doing THEM a favor and cutting your costs.

    Only trying to help.
    Last edited by Winton Applegate; 08-19-2014 at 6:50 PM.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    No WOOL socks,I hope!! In fact,I would not use a sock at all. Fabric might store moisture more easily than bare metal.

    I saw a Civil War pistol stored in a wool sock for many years. Like new internally,but the sock's rough weave had eaten itself very deeply into the surface of the gun.
    Silicone impregnated cotton actually. The tools get used enough that they get checked regularly. The system works well for me.
    Shawn

    "no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."

    "I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"

  5. #35
    Thanks for all the input guys!

    I realized that I never did talk about location. The hand tools are stored inside in a very dry basement shop. Power tools are out in the garage that does see cars.

    In the short term, I think I'll wipe down all the tools that don't see alot of use (panel saws) with some Johnson's paste wax. I've already got a can that I use on my Unisaw and Jointer, that seems easy enough.

    For medium use things (like a Stanley #6 ) I'll probably do the CRC 3.36 or the Corroison X. Both seem well reviewed. Leaning towards the 3.36, just because it's 1/3 the price and I can get free shipping.

    I haven't made up my mind on things that will see more use and sharpening, like chisels and a smoothing and/or jointer plane. Maybe oil, maybe 3.36.

  6. #36
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    Hi Shawn. It's obviously working for you, but long and bad experience of the effects of silicone when refinishing cars (even a stray airborne molecule or two can somehow find its way over extended distances on to prepared surfaces and cause 'fish eyes' in the new coating - result in a spot where the paint hasn't got enough wetting ability to cover) means that it's an absolute no no in my book anywhere remotely close to where adhesives and/or finishes might be in use. The effect can normally be headed off these days in automotive refinishing using a precautionary pre-wash (people insist on using silicone containing plastic polishes and the like on their cars), but a porous surface like wood may be a lot more difficult.....
    Last edited by ian maybury; 08-21-2014 at 9:46 AM.

  7. #37
    Ian,

    Thanks for the concern. However, the lack of silicone is precisely why I use the Johnson wax, not an automotive one.

    http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/...paste-wax.aspx

    As for cross-contamination from my cars, I actually use a polymer based "wax" for my vehicles. I apply and remove entirely by hand.
    Honestly, and I'm sure my wife would agree, the cars don't find their way into the garage all that often...

  8. #38
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    Someone, whose knowledge I very much respect, said that paste wax has little resistance to water or water vapor. He suggested a test along the lines of paste wax part of a cast iron surface and leave the other bare. Then spritz both sections with a light sprayer (good atomization) using water several times a day.

    Has anyone done such a test? If so, what were the results?

  9. #39
    It doesn't offer much protection in that sense, relevant if you're going to leave a sweaty glass on a piece of furniture. As a barrier against water vapor, it works very well.

    The trouble in this case is that the test doesn't match the real world application. You need only a barrier for vapor and maybe very light surface condensation as opposed to liquid that will eventually (or fairly quickly) get through the wax.

    Just as something anecdotal - once I put a wipe of beeswax on all of my saws (which live in an environment between 60 and 75% humidity in the summer), no rust. The couple of times I've unintentionally cleaned the bandsaw table surface and forgotten to wax them, I've come back to surface rust. I can't remember what the magic number is, something like 63% RH or so that you start to see rust.

  10. #40
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    +1 for Johnson's Wax.

    I'm in the Gulf Coast area and things rust , but Johnson's stops it.

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