Putting wire in flex conduit before settling the line?

[Mike Kelsey]

I was beginning to setup my new Grizzly jointer/ planer combo in my barn/ shop when I realized I needed to run a dedicated 30amp line. For my 20amp line I used rigid nonmetallic conduit, 40' pull with 3 90 degree bends. What a struggle that was!

This time I thought about using metallic flex conduit, threading it with the three #10 wires (1/2" dia conduit), then putting the line in place. I have three 90 degree bends, but they can be gradual sweeps. Any reason not to thread the wire first?

[Chris Padilla]

Make or buy yourself a conduit mouse. I made one out of some foam, tape, and thread. Use a vacuum to suck it through the lines and then attach a pull rope or cord to that and then attach your wires to that. THEN lubricate the wires with wire pulling lubricant.

You can do it your way but you should still, at the minimum, invest in some pulling lubricant. The pull lube makes life much easier!!

[Chris Padilla]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0Vu1MysV8E

Here is another idea for conduit mouse.

[Mike Kelsey]

Make or buy yourself a conduit mouse. I made one out of some foam, tape, and thread. Use a vacuum to suck it through the lines and then attach a pull rope or cord to that and then attach your wires to that. THEN lubricate the wires with wire pulling lubricant.

You can do it your way but you should still, at the minimum, invest in some pulling lubricant. The pull lube make life much easier!!

Thanks for the info ,Chris.

I have no problem getting the fish tape through the conduit. It's the 90 degree sweeps I dread - which is why I thought about pre-threading the conduit. I'll try the lube as you suggest. Since I've got to pull #10 wire , should I go with 3/4" flex instead of 1/2"?

[Chris Padilla]

Yes, use the 3/4" flex. I used 3/4" flex when I redid my garage and it is all #10 (even the 20A circuits are wired with #10). I did use stranded wire. Can you make a long sweep 90 instead of the shorter radius 90 using the flex?

[Mike Kelsey]

Yes, use the 3/4" flex. I used 3/4" flex when I redid my garage and it is all #10 (even the 20A circuits are wired with #10). I did use stranded wire. Can you make a long sweep 90 instead of the shorter radius 90 using the flex?

Yes that is my intent. Sounds like I should go for the stranded wire also.

[Chris Parks]

Maybe I miss the point here but why are you trying to pull through the assembled conduit? I would put the first bend on and run the wire through it, the conduit and attach it to the first bend and then the last bend and push it onto the conduit.

[Ole Anderson]

I would use 3/4" non metallic conduit with sweep ells, assembled in place then use the fish tape to pull three stranded wires, lubed as previously recommended.

[Chris Parks]

I would use 3/4" non metallic conduit with sweep ells, assembled in place then use the fish tape to pull three stranded wires, lubed as previously recommended.

Why pull the wire through the conduit and two bends at once, it just makes the job harder that it needs to be.

[Rollie Meyers]

Another option is metal clad, MC cable, it does have the same requirements for protection from physical damage as NM cable but is easy to work with.

[Scott T Smith]

I would use 3/4" non metallic conduit with sweep ells, assembled in place then use the fish tape to pull three stranded wires, lubed as previously recommended.

^^^ My recommendation as well; however there is no reason why you can't pull the wire as you assemble the conduit. I've done it that way as well. Using stranded wire, larger conduit and lube will all assist with a wire pull though. I personally would not use flex for a run this length.

[Tom M King]

I wouldn't use flex either. It's fine, just not my choice. For a run that short, I wouldn't even bother with the lube. If you aren't using sheathed cable, it would be an easy pull anyway. If you already have NM or some sheathed cable, pulling elbows at the turns would even allow you to pull that.

[Marty Tippin]

Either rigid conduit (metallic or non, either way), or MC cable. I'd go with MC if it was me - it's trivially simple to install and goes where ever you want it. I'll be running a couple of 30 amp circuits in the near future (ones I didn't plan for before the insulation and drywall...) and will be using MC.

[Mike Kelsey]

Either rigid conduit (metallic or non, either way), or MC cable. I'd go with MC if it was me - it's trivially simple to install and goes where ever you want it. I'll be running a couple of 30 amp circuits in the near future (ones I didn't plan for before the insulation and drywall...) and will be using MC.

I sure wish I would have consulted you guys before starting ANY of my electrical runs!!

Since my shop is a barn all the electrical is exposed. If I would have known, all my 220 would have been MC cable. I think I actually spent more $$ (let alone time) using nonmetallic conduit, various fittings, rolls of wire, measuring,etc, than what using MC cable costs. So I'll run my 10/2 line with MC cable.

I might actually shock my wife and make something with my milled wood this year!

BTW: What's a good way to cut the metal sheathing without damaging the wire insulation?

[Marty Tippin]

BTW: What's a good way to cut the metal sheathing without damaging the wire insulation?

Simplest solution is to get one of these -- especially if you think you'll be doing more than a couple of runs.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Too...3725/203872308

If you're only going to be doing a little bit, just kink the cable and carefully use wire cutters to cut through the jacket.