What's the footprint for a RAS "Radial Arm Saw"?

[Myk Rian]

The motor runs fine and the motor bearings seem to be fantastic as the blade was still spinning after I tested it out the entire time we were discussing the price and looking at the other tools he had for sale.

That indicates dry bearings. They need to be changed.

[Mike Olson]

Doh! thanks for the info Myk. Is it OK to use it as is for a while or will it damage it?
Once owwm.ORG approves my registration i'll be hitting that place up for a bunch of info on what to do next.

[Steve Peterson]

The Bosch glide is another suggestion that will get you a modern machine with a small footprint. I have one on a bench that is 33" deep and the front control knob is flush with the front of the bench. It would also fit on a 25" deep bench if you turn it after you are done using it.

A bit more money would get you a Festool Kapex with a different mechanism to fit on a narrow bench.

Steve

[HANK METZ]

"The Only thing the Radial arm saw does not win at is moving from 90* to 45*. It takes maybe 5 additional seconds."

Here are a couple of tricks that I use on my RAS when the need arises.

I rarely move the arm to 45 degrees, I simply clamp on a miter board to guide the workpiece:
45 Miter Jig RAS.jpg

Trimming and ripping small pieces can be done with the same jig board, only use the 90 degree side:
Small Piece Rip RAS.jpg

The scrap 1X (clamp or freehand) holds the workpiece up against the fence and keeps hands well away from the blade.

[Mike Olson]

"The Only thing the Radial arm saw does not win at is moving from 90* to 45*. It takes maybe 5 additional seconds." Here are a couple of tricks that I use on my RAS when the need arises. I rarely move the arm to 45 degrees, I simply clamp on a miter board to guide the workpiece: <img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=295405"/> Trimming and ripping small pieces can be done with the same jig board, only use the 90 degree side: <img src="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=295406"/> The scrap 1X (clamp or freehand) holds the workpiece up against the fence and keeps hands well away from the blade.

very cool, thanks for the tips

[Art Mann]

I used to do that with my Craftsman RAS, I knew from experience that if I rotated the arm 45 degrees and then back again, it would never go back to the same place. Plus, it took about 300 ft-lb of torque on the crank handle to raise the arm.

[Myk Rian]

Doh! thanks for the info Myk. Is it OK to use it as is for a while or will it damage it?

If a bearing locks up you'll have big problems.

[Jim Davenport]

12137-B (428x640) (3).jpg

I have to agree that the old Dewalt's are very accurate. mine is a 1956 MBF that I refurbished. I mounted it on a Craftsman roll away tool chest. It's very compact.

[Roy Turbett]

..... Plus, it took about 300 ft-lb of torque on the crank handle to raise the arm.

I have a sacrificial top on my RAS that is 1/2 thicker in front of the fence than it is behind the fence. This lets me swing the arm without having to raise and lower the blade.