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Thread: Issues with engraving Granite

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Gregerson View Post
    I ran it through one touch photo for you with the black Granite settings. Attachment 295291
    What program is that? I have Engravelab and it uses photo laser. I used Corel Photo paint too. Yours looks a little different. I'm just curious about the software! Thanks for the help!!

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Jodi Sands View Post
    What program is that? I have Engravelab and it uses photo laser. I used Corel Photo paint too. Yours looks a little different. I'm just curious about the software! Thanks for the help!!
    It's a Universal Laser Systems photo Software but the files it creates are made for lasers. You can download a free trial if you want. http://www.ulsinc.com/downloads/1-to...laserphoto.zip Runs about 250. I sell a fair number of them for people who own lasers of all types.

  3. #18
    Here is my suggestion. Use an exisiting photo that you know worked out well, and engrave it on a current piece of marble with the same settings used before. If the image turns out great you know it's your image processing. If the image looks way different or bad, then you know it's the granite.

  4. #19
    Chinese lasers are slow. Run it at it at the maximum speed you can and the power should be on the low side. I'd guess around 5-10W.
    Equipment: IS400, IS6000, VLS 6.60, LS100, HP4550, Ricoh GX e3300n, Hotronix STX20
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  5. #20
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    If I'm wondering what a image will look like when I etch it, I squeegee a piece of transfer paper on the surface, and paint it black with some liquid shoe polish. Let it dry, then run it at 100% speed/35% power 300 DPI. Once run, it not only confirms your correct position on the stone, but also gives a pretty good representation of what the final etching will look like. Sure beats wasting stone..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Cunningham View Post
    If I'm wondering what a image will look like when I etch it, I squeegee a piece of transfer paper on the surface, and paint it black with some liquid shoe polish. Let it dry, then run it at 100% speed/35% power 300 DPI. Once run, it not only confirms your correct position on the stone, but also gives a pretty good representation of what the final etching will look like. Sure beats wasting stone..
    Blue painter's tape... wide roll (several inches), lasers a bright white. Great for positioning marks.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

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  7. #22
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    Ya but blue tape is a heck of a lot more expensive than transfer tape and dollar store liquid shoe polish and if you have to run a small test section again, a quick shoe polish TouchUp does the trick.
    Last edited by Bill Cunningham; 08-27-2014 at 9:56 PM. Reason: darn autocorrect
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




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