Cyclone dust collector height issue & vibration

[Scott Driemel]

Well, here it is and the Grizzly GO441 I bought a few months ago is still sitting on my utility trailer under a tarp. Where does the time go? Busier than a one legged man in an a## kicking contest it seems! Looking at the behemouth, although partially dissaembled, it's time to make a few major decisions regarding it's function & capabilities. Not ever having a cyclone before or even having a planer or jointer hooked to a central vac, I'm needing some advice.
The GO441 stands 109" tall when it's using it's full capacity metal drum. (the drum is actually a 35 gal drum with a removeable height extension to make it 50gal) If the drum extension isn't used it's 93 1/4" tall.
My shop is 101" tall to the bottom of the ceiling joists.(which are open and would allow another 10" or so) allowing air circ around the motor but not as unemcumbered as if it was out in the open (I presume?)

* I use rough cut lumber. I plane lots (hobby not commercial), and joint lots by machine.
* I live on rural acreage so getting rid of shavings isn't an issue.
* This is in a garage, attached to my house, with a large fiberglass deck above it
* I bought my unit used, it had been mounted on a wall. (It comes with a OM mounting system to go on the wall) A stand is $275 + $79 shipping if ordered. The stand is changeable to accomodate the 35 or the 50 gal collection drum.

Q1) Should I fit the motor housing up between the joists to allow the extra capacity of my collection drum (35gal-50gal)
I'm hoping some of you who have the 35gal will chime in as to whether you find it an acceptable amount or rue the day you didn't go bigger. (I know bigger is better for collection but CAN we get by in a hobby shop with the 35 gal?)
Q2) Will the motor still get enough air circulation if situated between the joists?
Q3) What about vibration if these cyclones are mounted to a wall (ie studs) * The metal stand from Grizzly looks to have just bare metal feet, no dampening. But I'm wondering if by being bolted to the studs if it will create a horrible drone when on. (I know, it'll probably be so loud I won't hear the drone on top of it right?)

I can build a wood stand for this fairly cheaply and place a 3/4" rubber mat under the whole thing but I don't plan on mounting it (bolting) it to the floor or am I making a mistake & these must be bolted to the floor (shop floor is concrete) I've seen special isolation feet mounts but they are $50+ each at some places and that's ... not going to happen.

Or do you think just bolting it to the wall will be fine.
Anxious to hear your 25cents.
Thanks as always to fellow Creekers.

[Ryan Mooney]

Q1) If you can make the 50g bin work I'd say do it (pending anyones thoughs on Q2 I guess ). I don't think you can have to much drum space. I don't have a cyclode (thien baffle) but when planing some kinds of wood my planer can easily produce over a gallon/minute of shavings and it doesn't take long to fill a 30g can.

[Scott Driemel]

that's my worry. Using a pals DC regular canister 3hp model, we can fill that 4' high bag of his in a 1/2hr if we're planing.

[Jim Andrew]

Scott, I have a 2 hp cyclone, and it has a bracket at the top where it bolts to the wall. I lagged 2 -2x4's to the studs, and drilled the holes big enough to put a piece of heater hose through the 2x4's and also cut some big washers from the sidewall of a tire, then found a big enough piece of steel for a washer to keep the bolts from coming through the bigger holes. This was to insulate the cyclone from the wall. Where I hooked the pipe to the cyclone, I used a fernco rubber sleeve so the cyclone would be insulated from the piping. Far as the stand, wish I had one. So I could remove the fan from the unit to clean, or seal it from the cyclone. Mine leaked between, so last time I had it down, put a big bead of silicone between the 2 sheets before putting it back together. Now it will be glued solid when I need to get it apart, but it performs much better since sealing it. Could you not just make a stand from some 2" angle iron? Are there points to bolt to on the cyclone?

[Scott Driemel]

Hi Jim, yes there are 4 special mounting plates I'd need to either fabricate or buy from Grizzly. Think they are about $20 each. On the optional metal stand each of these say 4"x6" metal pieces have 2 holes on both ends. One bolts to a specific place on the cyclone funnel, the other to the stand. Not certain what you mean by ceil the fan from the cyclone.?

[Thomas Canfield]

I posted the odd installation of my Oneida 2HP cyclone here http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ion&highlight=

The motor up in the ceiling joists if open should not be a heat issue, but could be a maintenance issue if the motor had to be removed. I expect that you would need to drop the whole unit to be able to replace/maintain motor. The largest dust bin is desirable. I took a 55 gallon plastic drum and cut the height down to get the larger diameter and shorter height for about 35 gal capacity. Of course, you can't use the full drum height so actual capacity is only about 2/3 of drum to prevent having larger pieces carried out.

[Jim Andrew]

My cyclone came in 2 major parts, the cyclone, and the fan assembly including the motor, bracket, impeller, and the plate which bolts to the top of the cyclone. It came with a foam gasket, but I noticed the motor getting dusty. So took it down and found the gap between the 2 layers of metal. Any leak in a cyclone causes the dust to fill the filter, so works much better sealed up. And as far as the motor reaching up into the joists, you could build up the joists and put a piece of plywood or sheetrock over the topside, if you want to finish the rest of the ceiling. A 2x6 should make it plenty high on top of the joists to remove the blower from the cyclone. Or measure and add the appropriate amount of wood. I can fill my 50 gallon drum in just a few minutes with my Grizzly 15" planer.

[Scott Driemel]

Thx everyone. Glad the motor should be able to breathe enough between the joists. That's a load off my mind.

I was just out standing on my lathe bed with my motor mock-up trying to see how it may fit between the joists. Looked like I was in the circus. Especially the climbing up part on my spanking new blue vinyl Princess auto swiveling stool.
Looks like it is the big decision. If I go with the 35 gal drum, everything is easy, loads of clearance, and no more measuring or mock ups. (and the motor would be an easy fix if ever need be)

or ... I go for it, squeeze it up between the joist, score the 50 gal drum & know that if I ever have to service the motor, the entire machine has to be partially dissasembled and taken down.

I don't know which way to go. Maybe I need to sit in the shop and ponder for another week.
I

[Wade Lippman]

I bet if you ask Grizzly, they will tell you not to put it between the studs; it gets pretty warm and reducing cooling just can't be a good idea.
But even if you can, I still wouldn't do it. If you use the minimum spacing the lid is almost impossible to get off the barrel. I have mine up 6" and it is still a challenge.
My stand is just a few 2x4s and works great. No reason to bolt it to the ground or have anything under the stand; the wood absorbs all the vibrations.
Certainly I would rather have the larger bin, but with bags it empties easily enough.

[Ted Friesen]

Scott,

I have the G0440 wall mounted with the 35 Gal bin. I'm a hobbyist, but that said I'm in the process of building a Roubo work bench which means I'm doing a lot of jointing and planning.

If it had come with the bin extension I'd have used it gladly, but couldn't justify the price they wanted for the extension. I find that I only have to empty the smaller bin every few months so it's livable. The larger bin, being heavier when full might be more than I would want to have to handle.

Hope it helps.

By the way if you need any more 9" flex hose to connect to the bin I have some left over. The short piece that came with the machine was OK in the stand, but when I moved it up the wall I need a 3' piece. Unfortunately they only sell 10' and they were the only place I could find that sold 9" flex hose.

Ted Friesen

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Scott, I hung my Oneida cyclone from the floor joists using vibration isolators, with the motor up between the floor joists.

The motor will cool just fine if you leave a couple of inches clearance to the fan intake.............Rod.