Glass Engraving Finishing

[Caymon Sullivan]

Heyo!

My work has a Epilog Helix 60W, and we have tested some engraving on a glass, but were wondering how to finish the glass. The glass is quite rough, should we just sand the glass gently? Or is there a specific product you can use.

Best regards,
-Caymon

[Chris DeGerolamo]

Post your settings used to engrave. I'm guessing by tweaking them alone you can achieve a "smoother" mark. The biggest factor I have seen is changing artwork fills from black to 80% or 90%.

[Mike Audleman]

Post your settings used to engrave. I'm guessing by tweaking them alone you can achieve a "smoother" mark. The biggest factor I have seen is changing artwork fills from black to 80% or 90%.

Why would changing the artwork color matter? Unless you are mapping the color to laser power.

[Michael Hunter]

On my Epilog, changing from black to 80% grey forces it to engrave a "dither pattern" - which seems much better for engraving glass.

[Ross Moshinsky]

The glass shouldn't be rough. From my experience, glass engraving is typically rough when you use too much power. There are a lot of posts on how to engrave glass/crystal. You can read them and test which method you like best. I like soaking wet newspaper, full power, relatively slow, with 600 dpi.

[Tim Bateson]

I agree with Ross.. except the paper towels.. waste of time & bad results for me. Sometimes I use liquid dish detergent (very thin glass or $$$ glass), but mostly nothing at all. For Crystal I never use a coating or paper.

[Chris DeGerolamo]

Why would changing the artwork color matter? Unless you are mapping the color to laser power.

Lower density of "dots" for engraving. Give it a shot on your end, you'd be surprised.

[Caymon Sullivan]

Ok, thank you guys, I will post the settings when I get back in the shop.

I'll also try dish soap and newspapers, and post the results.

Best regards,
-Caymon

[Martin Boekers]

I use the standard masking tape. It does take 2-3 passes though. The glass comes out smooth and consistent.
Not sure, but I have a feeling that the adhesive may melt into the "fractured glass" to smooth it a bit. This method works
great on JDS Black Mirrors... Thing about what Ross said though, could it be that engraving through another material be
similar to lowering the power?

[bruce cain]

Windex and extra fine steel wool

[Kev Williams]

Well, I must do glass wrong because no matter the settings or dither or wet paper towels or masking I use or whatever, when the engraving result suits me, I MUST use steel wool to remove the tiny flecks and shards left behind. I've gotten fairly smooth glass engraving but I don't like it. Regardless, I always steel wool anyway. All I need is for a customer to sweep his hand across the engraving and pick up glass sliver.

I use 0000 steel wool. NOT sandpaper or scotchbright pads, they will scratch the glass.

[Kevin Gregerson]

I just select the glass setting in the materials database. Comes out near perfect every time. The nature of the beast is that glass microfractures when exposed to 10.6 laser so there is going to be bits left. I find the best overall cleaning comes from using a microfiber cloth afterwards. If you are looking for depth and you have patience you can use the hpdfo optics to engrave more depth in the glass.

[Bruce Clumpner]

Kev,

Why not use scotchbrite pads? I'd think the glass is harder than the plastic of the sponges and so unlikely to scratch?

[Chuck Stone]

I've changed from laser engraving them to engraving a mask (transfer tape) and
then using an air erase. It's a mini sandblaster that looks like an airbrush. I use
a cardboard box to blast in, since it doesn't throw the abrasive around like a
full sized blaster does.
That gives me the detail of the laser, but the frosting of sandblasting.
A little more work, but the results are worth it.

I've tried using the mask for cream etching, but the cream can creep
under the mask. But it looks nice where it works.

[Chuck Stone]

Kev,

Why not use scotchbrite pads? I'd think the glass is harder than the plastic of the sponges and so unlikely to scratch?

The glass is harder than the pastic, yes. But the plastic isn't the abrasive. Scotchbrite contains
aluminum oxide, which definitely scratches the glass.
The non-stick variety may work, though..