Inside chamfers

[Brian Holcombe]

I currently cut inside chamfers with a flat spoke shave and go into the corner with a chisel. The results are ok, but I'd like a bit more consistency in quality, so I've been looking into the chisel plane. What is your preferred method for this procedure?

[Matthew N. Masail]

you can easily make a chisel plane out of a block of wood and a plane blade just to test the idea. I recommend the LN video for tip on how to set it up.
If you do buy a chisel plane, do yourself a favor and get one that has an adjuster.

[steven c newman]

Go out and find a Stanley #72. A Stanley #78 CAN be used as a Bullnose plane, also. The #72 is MADE to do champfers, though.

[Derek Cohen]

Go out and find a Stanley #72. A Stanley #78 CAN be used as a Bullnose plane, also. The #72 is MADE to do champfers, though.

Steven, the issue with a #72 is that it is not a bullnose plane. Even a bullnose plane does not reach inside a wall.

Brian, a chisel plane makes sense here, although I do not owned or used one. I either use a block plane and finish with a chisel, or use a chamfer plane I made - but this does have a nose, as does the chamfer attachment for a LV block plane (look on their website for this). I have a memory of a miniplane without a nose that is commonly available on ebay and other places. Quick search: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-PC-MINI-MI...item5d4f19648b

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Pat Barry]

I currently cut inside chamfers with a flat spoke shave and go into the corner with a chisel. The results are ok, but I'd like a bit more consistency in quality, so I've been looking into the chisel plane. What is your preferred method for this procedure?

It sounds like this is for a frame of some sort. I would typically do these chamfers first, before assembly. Maybe your application didn't permit it being done first?

[Tony Zaffuto]

I've been caught with this situation a few times and consider it a skill building exercise. Do as much as you can with your spokeshave or blockplane, and then register your supersharp chisel off of the chamfer you just cut, use your finger as a fence and continue into the corners.

The way I look at it is, I like having things done as good as possible, but it isn't machine made and does not have to be absolutely perfect.

[David Weaver]

depending on the orientation of the grain, I'd consider using a gouge (especially if they're cross grain), and cleaning up the corners with a chisel or a knife.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions fellas.

Steve, the #72 looks pretty sweet, but the ebay listings I found had some pretty hopeful prices, I'll pick one up for outside chamfers if I come across one at a decent price.

Derek, do you happen to have any photos of the one you made?

Pat, it's a pretty common thing for me due to the style I work in, almost all of them are avoidable by cutting the chamfer prior to assembly since on case work I like to joint the face prior to finishing. It gets to be daunting trying to cut all of the inside corners with a chisel and maintain consistency. My next project will be a dovetail bench, so it's a good opportunity to test a few methods out.

Tony, that's pretty much my current method and while I do have mixed success with it, I'm looking for something I can do with a quicker pace and more consistency. The project I have in mind for it, mostly, are building box frames for paintings on pre-stretched canvas. I built them in batches of 10~ and so tedious processes become very tedious considering the quantity.

David, so far it's been all along the grain.

[David Weaver]

The reason I suggested a gouge instead of a chisel is because a gouge will cut the wood on all sides and avoid breakout to some extent. Assuming these chamfers are large enough to make a gouge worthwhile.

The little ridges left from a fairly flat gouge can be chiseled off across the grain without much risk of damage.

[paul cottingham]

I use a chamfer attachment on my low angle block plane. Works great. For inside chamfers I use the plane, and finish it into the corner with a chisel. Want to try a gouge now, though.

[Bill McDermott]

I appreciate the comment about skill building with chisels. In fact, I have found no alternative to getting the corners crisp. But I do use my Stanley 92 rabbet plane with the top/front piece removed for this very purpose. Set it light. It will want to dive if the grain does. Still, it's better for me than a free chisel.

[Brian Holcombe]

Interesting, I'll have to give that a try.

[Tony Zaffuto]

If I had a lot of inside chamfers to do and I had a later model (think Sheffield made) Stanley, with removable front, I might be tempted to find a spot to drill and tap a hole, to hold a 45 degree chamfered block, to assist with crisp chamfers. I would not try this with any plane that may have collector interest.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, do you happen to have any photos of the one you made?

Hi Brian

This chamfer plane is a lamination in Jarrah, and works BU.



It is useful for consistent camphers on outside edges.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks for posting that up, nice work!