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Thread: Something better than masking tape from HD?

  1. #1
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    Something better than masking tape from HD?

    Ok, until now its all been fun and one-off projects. Now I got the idea to make up a batch of keychains for the range picnic next weekend. I wanted to cut 49 out of some 12x12 ply I had. Good plan, I thought.

    I first covered the entire sheet with masking tape. Wide roll. I had to put like 4 or 5 strips across to cover the board. Got that done. Now in the laser for engraving and cutting. Ok, that went ok. Didn't take long either.

    Then I spend like 3 hours peeling masking tape off each individual keychain. There must be a better way, and faster. I would like something I can go get from a local store as I don't have time to order and get it shipped here and get more made by Saturday.

    So, what is a better way to protect the surface of the plywood from smoke damage/coloring? I am open to any suggestions. I just got back from Home Depot with a load of plumbing fixtures to make my water cooling more finished (mounting els and nipples on the bucket lid) and professional looking. I also picked up a ball valve and two barbs to allow me to adjust the airflow to the head. I still didn't get parts for the air accumilator. They were out of brass barbs.

    So any thoughts on different techniques or different tape or other surface protector preferably with a local source?
    Last edited by Mike Null; 08-25-2014 at 7:45 AM.
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  2. #2
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    You could spray the material with a fast drying clear finish, then laser. It may wipe clean or you might need to hit it with a sander.
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  3. #3
    I apply a finish first and then just smear some dishwashing liquid over the whole thing before lasing. Then, the smoke just rinses off easily and quickly.
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    Dee, like the dish soap idea after the sealer. Use in on the CNC when cutting metal, now I'll try it on the Laser.
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  5. #5
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    Don't think the idea to wash it would be good. Its plywood. Water would soak into where the laser etched out the design and would swell the wood and raise the grain. If it were plastic then yea, maybe the soap idea might be a go.

    Here is the project..
    2014-08-24_19-11-07_472.jpg
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  6. #6
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    Forgot to ask. Are there better masking tapes for what we do here than the generic stuff from Home Depot? I tried the blue stuff, seems no different as far as clean up and it has a plasticy smell when lasered so I was worried about fumes from it. I went back to the standard masking tape.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Audleman View Post
    Forgot to ask. Are there better masking tapes for what we do here than the generic stuff from Home Depot? I tried the blue stuff, seems no different as far as clean up and it has a plasticy smell when lasered so I was worried about fumes from it. I went back to the standard masking tape.
    Yes, transfer tape.
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Harman View Post
    Yes, transfer tape.
    2 votes for transfer tape.
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  9. #9
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    Is it just the little bits of tape that are the problem or is it the adhesive (or maybe both?)

    Mineral spirits will loosen up the adhesive. Naptha will also but it's more toxic than mineral spirits.
    Depending on the tape, rubbing alcohol might work well also.
    The mineral spirits will leave a slight odor - even the "odorless" variety. The wood itself is going to smell a little like a camp fire anyways. The rubbing alcohol should just evaporate and leave little to no alcohol smell.

    I would lean towards spraying a clear coat before lasering, as mentioned above. Then just wipe off with a slightly damp towel.
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  10. #10
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    I wouldn't use tape at all. I'd put a coat of finish on the wood, if it isn't finished already, and then use denatured alcohol for cleanup. If you clean them without removing from the laser (leaving them in the sheet you cut them from) it will be pretty quick and easy to cleanup. I do this often with wood, rowmark and acrylic.

  11. #11
    For that type of design, could you do the raster engraving first, then tape over and then do the cut? Positioning of the plywood is important each time, but that could easily be sorted.

  12. #12
    Like others have said-use clear coat.
    Mike Null

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Harman View Post
    Yes, transfer tape.
    Where would I look locally for it? Sorry, I am not in "the business" so I don't have all the contacts that many of you do.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mayo Pardo View Post
    Is it just the little bits of tape that are the problem or is it the adhesive (or maybe both?)

    Mineral spirits will loosen up the adhesive. Naptha will also but it's more toxic than mineral spirits.
    Depending on the tape, rubbing alcohol might work well also.
    The mineral spirits will leave a slight odor - even the "odorless" variety. The wood itself is going to smell a little like a camp fire anyways. The rubbing alcohol should just evaporate and leave little to no alcohol smell.

    I would lean towards spraying a clear coat before lasering, as mentioned above. Then just wipe off with a slightly damp towel.
    Its both the little bits of tape and the adhesive, I think. The little bits (like centers of O's, A's B's etc) and a pita at this scale to get off. I have been using my fingernail to get most of it off but the small fiddly bits like to crawl down in the engraving channels where I gotta pick em out.

    As far as the adhesive, I think it softens and turns into a gooy substance thats very sticky. I assume its also mixing with the tar and resin of the vaporized wood. Thats why I asked if there was a better brand/type of tape that might reduce the adhesive goo issue.

    When I was done, my fingers and nails looked I had just chain smoked a whole carton of cigarettes (yuck) and were stained a yellowish color. Took a lot of hot water and soap to get it off.

    Quote Originally Posted by Julian Ashcroft View Post
    For that type of design, could you do the raster engraving first, then tape over and then do the cut? Positioning of the plywood is important each time, but that could easily be sorted.
    During engraving, a lot of staining occurs so I don't think taping after engraving is the answer, unfortunately. I think there is more smoke/resin produced from the engraving than the cutting to be honest. And yea, repositioning would require some sort of jig be made but its doable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Like others have said-use clear coat.
    Any recommendations on a clear coat to use? After sanding, I have been using my stock of decades old Deft satin lacquer aerosol (white cans, simple black print, no color). I can't imagine using that stuff to prevent staining given its $10-$15 a can. And I am quite positive denatured alcohol will take the lacquer right off. I assume I would have to be looking at an enamel clear coat spray? We talking a cheap clear coat enamel from Home Depot or something specific?

    This project was intended to be bare wood trinkets, no finish. You know, wood nickel sort of thing. I sanded the sheet whole before applying the tape so I wouldn't have to sand each one individually. Was I wrong in this thinking?
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  14. #14
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    Mike,

    I think everyone is right suggesting a clear coat rather than tape, given your experience with all the little teeny bits of tape you have to remove. I will let them suggest the clear coat type they prefer. But I suspect something simple and low cost like a water based sanding sealer would do the trick. Lets see what folks have to offer?

    But if you do need a masking tape, the folks at Rabbit have suggested the tape from Harbor Freight. It is a cheap tape, but apparently it works quite well for them as a mask when lasering. If you have a HF near you or can mail order some you might try it. This is quoted from their web site.
    Masking tape is used during daily operations to protect the surface of the materials from residue. Example: Place a wide stripe of tape on a piece of wood and engrave your name thru the tape. The fumes/residue is blown down onto the tape.. not into the wood. Redmove the tape after the residue is dry. The wood is protected from discoloration. The best tape for laser application is found at Harbor Freight. The Harbor Freight product has much less glue to burn, less plastic in the "tape" to burn, more paper in the "tape" that burns easily for marking and cutting. My experience says the Harbor Freight tape works very well and is a fair price.


    For the use you are describing here though I think a coating is your better bet. And as always, keep in mind you are being given free advice from the laserless one on the forum! <grin> (though I am actively working on that)

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  15. #15
    Mike

    I would sand then apply a clear coat. If I have it I use lacquer but spray on polyurethane will work. If you're going to use dna for cleaning don't use acrylic. If you want to use acrylic then use mineral spirits to clean.

    Transfer tape is very handy to have around the shop, though not for this job. You can buy it from sign supply houses and I'm sure you have several in Milwaukee. Buy it by the log and have them cut a 12" roll, a 2" and a 6" and whatever else you want to make up the 54".
    Last edited by Mike Null; 08-25-2014 at 12:19 PM.
    Mike Null

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