From our early WB experience they usually come back. To me it is just easier to figure a way to coat both sides and be done with it without trying to seal with another material. There are several good ideas here on how to do it.
Joe
Contributor
From our early WB experience they usually come back. To me it is just easier to figure a way to coat both sides and be done with it without trying to seal with another material. There are several good ideas here on how to do it.
Joe
Member
How big is the gap? Is it thickness of a paper?
Moderator
Pick up a can of SealCoat from one of the borgs, Scott. It is a 1 or 2# cut of dewaxed shellac made by Zinsser. Yes, it does dry very quickly so you can spray both sides within 20 minutes of each other on average. Then you can apply your WB finish and likely take your time before coating the back and you should solve the warping issue. As many folks noted, there are a few ways to address this. I like the idea of coating both sides right away...no reason to add steps if you don't need to.
[OP]
Contributor
Yeah, I'm going to give the shellac a try...Originally Posted by Chris Padilla
Chris, I'm in Mt. View...where are you located?
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Member
BIN primer is shellac based and gives you the white undercoat. I think it sands better than the GF undercoat too and doesn't raise the grain. It seems like that would take care of both the sealing and priming without adding any steps.
Guest
If these are applied drawer fronts, couldn't you just screw hook eyes into the back and hang them to be finished?
I've used the screws/finish nails through scraps but I'd still rather hang anything I've got to finish.
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