Its too bad. I would Leave it alone. Eventually it will flat out.
I see that working better with some assemblies than others. Our finisher does that as well, but sometimes it's like that old game operation trying to get the parts on he drying racks w/o touching the rack above, and the rack has a slight back angle which gives heavy drawer fronts an opportunity to slide across the finish nails. Last place had adjustable wall racks w dowels in the drying room, bit more flexible. Seems any system can be made to work. Don't think the present rack is adjustable?
I'm picking up some great ideas from this thread...thanks guys. I'm surprised there aren't many suggestions to seal the wood with a moisture resistant finish. It stands to reason that if WB moisture is the culprit then an oil or shellac sealer would reduce/minimize this effect. I guess I'll do some experimenting, beginning with Chris' suggestion re: shellac (dewaxed I assume).
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Dunno, no problems here. Worst part is dealing with the stilts/storage but I don't use them for everything. No issues with the racks again other than loosing some rack volume to the stilt thickness.
I'm not a fan of spraying hanging parts or hanging them to dry I've had too many occasions where they swing/twist and bump each other.
But I'm not a dedicated finisher and I don't finish every day either.
Doing so is symptom treatment. It's not the water that's the problem. It's the uneven application of it that's causing the warpage. You'll no doubt have some results by sealing first - but now you've added a step to your process rather than solved the root problem: water applied to the surfaces unevenly. The suggestions to finish all sides at once are solving the cause by changing the process without adding steps or materials or drying times.
Jason Beam
Sacramento, CA
beamerweb.com
The stinky part about that option is its an additional (unfunded) step in an process that's already time consuming and costly.
I just always look to a way to solve the problem without adding steps or even eliminating a few. If you can first coat the entire part in one drying cycle you've eliminated the second drying cycle and its associated handling.
It basically takes a drawer front from 4-6 (six if yiu have to run an additional sealer) coats down to three. That's a massive time and cost savings.
I don't disagree with anything you said, but I'll add that re-milling cupped drawer fronts is even more costly both in time and materials. Shellac dries quickly.
Going forward I'll be taking the advice of coating both sides in a single drying cycle using the method described (plywood base with screws positioned so that their mark falls on the portion of the drawer front that will be hidden when attached to the box).
Thanks a lot folks, very helpful discussion for me
Scott Vroom
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Scott,
When you make the trivets, don't feel like you have to size them and position the screws just for that particular job.Most of mine are 6" × 24" with a set of 4 screws towards one end, and another set of 4 screws at the other end.That way they will work for small pieces, or longer pcs.Even though they have 8 screws, only 3-4 will make contact on the bigger pcs.Making them more universal will eliminate the need to make new one's every time.
Several days. It was a rosewood box I made for my Aunt using wood my late Uncle had. It was a 1/4" top. It warped when I finished it, so I made a new one. Got that finished and delivered to her in Florida, and the original one straightened out. Ticked me off because the original was nicer grain.
Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night
I'm sure many factors apply but I've had this happen on 4/4 material and they never came all the way back. But for a drawer front generally the concave is on the back because that's usually your first coat and if it comes back almost to flat often fastening it to the drawer box will pull it to flat.
Maybe clamping it flat against a couple of straight edges for a few day's (if you have the time to wait)might take some of it out.I know alot of times it doesn't work,but you never know,it might help some.