I'm midway into this project and I figure ill post a few pictures and continue updating my progress. Please feel free to comment/criticize.
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Side frame joined with mitered half laps
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Jig for cutting 35 degree blind half lap for diagonal crossbar
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Diagonal crossbar
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Small workshop
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Mortises cut and stretchers cut to length. Next to perfect the mortises and start on all the tenons.
Member
Looks like you are making good progress. Got a picture of what it will look like?
I don't think I've ever made a jig out of black walnut. Just sayin'!
Todd
It's a really nice jig?
I don't have a picture unless I go take a picture of my drawings.
But it'll be the two side frames with diagonal supports. There's 5 stretchers between the diagonals to hold shoes. Then across the top it'll be 2 spans of 4 1/2" wide walnut with 2 tenons on each going into the horizontal top portion of the frame.
All mortise/tenons are through mortises and I'll either bevel the tenons or sand flush. Thoughts?
Member
You can cut and design for through, beveled tenons, and if you screw up, sand flush.
Indeed, gotta love options!Originally Posted by Todd Burch
You can cut and design for through, beveled tenons, and if you screw up, sand flush.
Okay I got some serious progress done this morning, and now I'm at a juncture where id like to get some opinions. Attachment 295760 First dry fit 1) Tenons. Household Six (aka, my wife) likes the look of the tenons sticking out, so I'm thinking ill attempt to bevel them with the option of course to sand flush. What tips and tricks have y'all got for cosmetically masking small mistakes like a mortise that's slightly large in one dimension? 2) My intent was to be able to sit on the bench top. The rack is 39 inches wide, and when I apply left/right pressure while pushing on the top, it racks very easily. Best way to fix this issue? 3) I had the thought of incorporating a slight curve in the bench top on the inside edges, but am wondering at this point whether I should just toss that and finish up. Would love to hear your ideas! Cheers, Hunter
Last edited by Hunter Locke; 08-29-2014 at 7:58 PM.
Picture failed to attach, here it is.
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First dry fit
Member
Hey, that looks a whole lot better than I envisioned! Good job!
Member
It might not rack as badly once you get it glued up and the joints are tight. otherwise you are going to need some type of stretcher from one side to the other - probably would want to put it on the back. I like the look you've got though. If one doesn't want it to double as a bench I think you should have enough support. CJ
Thanks for the kind words Todd.
I figured there's already lots of "stretchers" so I'm not sure if another will help. That being said, I hope your right about it being tight once it's glued up. I've got to keep reminding myself that this isn't a dining room table, it's a shoe rack!
Think ill bevel the tenons tomorrow and start sanding.
Contributor
Invest in a decent block plane and beveling edges will no longer be a painful task. I hate sandpaper and use it only when absolutely necessary, I finish plane most of my surfaces. But starting out with a nice block plane and beveling/rounding edges without sanding is a real eye opener. This simple task is what started me down the hand tool path.
The tenons are beveled and the it's sanded and glued up. Now to decide on the finish. Any thoughts?
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