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Thread: Is it worth buying a Chinese laser used? *Pics*

  1. #31
    The thicker the acrylic the more taper you will get, depending on the focus of the lens. Al previously suggested you would have to use a jointer or saw and cut the edges back to get a straight edge. Also, the lasered edges will also have a weeker joint unless cut back.

    I would suggest a combination of tools, or buy a good cnc.

  2. #32
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    Dan,

    I would suggest you attend Consac trade show on Sept. 19-20 at International Center. You can talk to some of CNC machines mfg/distributors and see first hand what they offer.
    Trotec Speedy 300 - 60w, with Quatro CSA-626 fume extraction
    Xenetech 1625 x2,
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    Brady Globalmark2 label printer,
    Assortment of custom tooling , shears & punches, heat bender.
    Software: Xenetech XOT, Corel X3, Bartender label software

  3. #33
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    Dan,

    You asked which software you should look at?

    From what I have seen I might lean toward products by Vectric. I liked the look of Aspire.
    But, this type of software can elicit the same type of reaction from people that Corel and Illustrator inspire. Or PC vc Mac. Etc.
    I would really suggest getting to a CNC sales event were you have a variety of machines and Software Packages on hand and look for the package that speaks to you best. That fits your way of thinking and working and the type of jobs you envision. And try to envision some growth in what you do. You may not always want to do JUST the work of cutting fish tank parts. You will have a powerful tool in a CNC and your imagination may be revved up by it if you have the time to play.

    Try checking this thread on Cad Cam software and the differences between CNC and Laser. It is an interesting discussion.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-vs-CNC-router

    Also, try doing this search in Google.
    site:www.sawmillcreek.org "cad cam software"

    You will get a slug of threads with the phrase "Cad Cam Software" in them that will discuss the packages in various ways.
    Or, just start browsing through the CNC forum here in the Creek. You will get a lot.

    But ultimately, get to a show and get your hands on some packages and see which ones really meet your work needs and your way or working and thinking.

    Dave
    900x600 80watt EFR Tube laser from Liaocheng Ray Fine Tech LTD. Also a 900x600 2.5kw spindle CNC from Ray Fine. And my main tool, a well used and loved Jet 1642 Woodlathe with an outboard toolrest that helps me work from 36 inch diameters down to reallllllly tiny stuff.

  4. #34
    Something isn't making sense here. Dan has listed his location as being in Ontario, but the name on the product is AquaBox, and I've personally made the prototypes for the inventor of AquaBox in Virginia. I CNC cut and lasered various pieces for about a year. Last contact with them, my customer had bought his own router. Now, this post is showing his box, but showing a location of Canada.

    Something's not right here. Either his partner (who was a mechanic) has moved to Canada, or someone's sold the design, or someone's copying a design.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    Something isn't making sense here. Dan has listed his location as being in Ontario, but the name on the product is AquaBox, and I've personally made the prototypes for the inventor of AquaBox in Virginia. I CNC cut and lasered various pieces for about a year. Last contact with them, my customer had bought his own router. Now, this post is showing his box, but showing a location of Canada.

    Something's not right here. Either his partner (who was a mechanic) has moved to Canada, or someone's sold the design, or someone's copying a design.
    The picture of the aqua box was simply to show what type of work I am looking to do.

    I am not claiming it was made by us.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by David Somers View Post
    Dan,

    You asked which software you should look at?

    From what I have seen I might lean toward products by Vectric. I liked the look of Aspire.
    But, this type of software can elicit the same type of reaction from people that Corel and Illustrator inspire. Or PC vc Mac. Etc.
    I would really suggest getting to a CNC sales event were you have a variety of machines and Software Packages on hand and look for the package that speaks to you best. That fits your way of thinking and working and the type of jobs you envision. And try to envision some growth in what you do. You may not always want to do JUST the work of cutting fish tank parts. You will have a powerful tool in a CNC and your imagination may be revved up by it if you have the time to play.

    Try checking this thread on Cad Cam software and the differences between CNC and Laser. It is an interesting discussion.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...-vs-CNC-router

    Also, try doing this search in Google.
    site:www.sawmillcreek.org "cad cam software"

    You will get a slug of threads with the phrase "Cad Cam Software" in them that will discuss the packages in various ways.
    Or, just start browsing through the CNC forum here in the Creek. You will get a lot.

    But ultimately, get to a show and get your hands on some packages and see which ones really meet your work needs and your way or working and thinking.

    Dave
    I just watched the software demo video of Aspire and it does not seem nearly as complex as others I have looked at (Mach3, etc..). With that said, its not cheap @ $2,000.

    Looks like Cut2D do the trick and its only $150. I don't need any crazy extra features considering how basic my jobs are.

    If I am going to go the CNC route, I would like to build one myself (cncrouterparts.com). I can get something bigger (4' x 8') for under $10K and its brand new. I already have experience cutting and assembling t-slot aluminum because that is what we make our custom aquariums stands from.

    Thanks so much for all your help guys. You probably saved me a ton of headache
    Last edited by Dan Souliere; 08-29-2014 at 11:51 PM.

  7. #37
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    For the type of 2D work you would be doing you certainly don't need anything fancy or expensive. If you will be making the same part over and over then you could even write the gcode yourself - it really isn't hard. Really. I have a CNC mill, when I need to make simple shapes, that's exactly what I do, write the gcode by hand. For more complex shapes I will use the free Ace converter to convert a dxf into gcode.

    If you are really going to get into making custom sumps, 4ft won't be enough. I cut a five foot overflow just last week - tricky since my work area was 5" short of that.
    Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
    Gerber Sabre 408

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    Something isn't making sense here. Dan has listed his location as being in Ontario, but the name on the product is AquaBox, and I've personally made the prototypes for the inventor of AquaBox in Virginia. I CNC cut and lasered various pieces for about a year.
    How long did it take you to cut out all the parts for that sump?
    Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
    Gerber Sabre 408

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Olalla, WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Shepherd View Post
    Getting customers is easy. Getting ones that pay top dollar for work is the secret
    This particular customer also helps me out in other ways. It's not just what I bill him. If you factor the other things in, I actually make out quite nicely.
    Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
    Gerber Sabre 408

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Souliere View Post
    I just watched the software demo video of Aspire and it does not seem nearly as complex as others I have looked at (Mach3, etc..).
    You're mixing two different packages here, so be careful. Mach3 is for controlling the CNC, whereas Aspire is for creating the object and/or toolpath. Both (or similar) are necessary.
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
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    Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
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  11. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    The basic process for the laser (in my case): create file in CorelDraw (usually), export as dxf, import into Lasercut 5.3, download to machine.
    The basic process for the router (in my case): create file in V Carve Pro (or import into V Carve from another CAD program as dxf), create G code after inputting wood parameters, tooling, speeds etc; which is all very simple (output as a .tap file - I have a Chinese router), import .tap into NC Studio (an alternative to Mach 3), click Start.
    Both are very similar processes, just with more set-up on the router as a previous poster mentioned.

    If you were going to spend the money on a laser, why not just spend the same (or perhaps less money) on a router, rather than spending time and frustration building one when you could have been up and running on a ready built machine? If your head boggled at the use of a router, why try build one? My first use of my router paid me money, no testing, no fiddling, no spending 6 months on building the machine and trying to get it right. Turn Key has great benefits.

    Regards, John
    60w EFI 6090 & 100w Z4 Reci 6090 G Weike Lasers, 4 X 4 CNC Router
    CLTT using Oki C822dn & Adkins Press
    Glass Sandblasting, Woodwork Shop, etc...
    V Carve Pro v8 & Photo V Carve, Lasercut 5.3, Corel Draw 2017 on Windows 7 and iMac (via Parallels), etc

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Harman View Post
    How long did it take you to cut out all the parts for that sump?
    I didn't cut that box in that photo so I can't comment on that. The customer started with us, bringing us jobs to "laser" and more often than not, they ended up on the router, not the laser. After working with him for about a year, he bought his own CNC router and had pulled most everything in house.

    However, from a time standpoint, it's much more efficient to put one sheet of material on the router and have it cut all the pieces out than having to cut a larger sheet into pieces that will fit into the laser, then cut on the laser, then take to a jointer. It's just faster to cut (the router is much faster than a laser on acrylic), and it's less steps. If you're happy doing it the way you're doing it, then knock yourself out. I'm just saying if a customer brought that work into my shop today, I would quote it as a CNC job and it would never see our lasers.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by John Bion View Post
    The basic process for the laser (in my case): create file in CorelDraw (usually), export as dxf, import into Lasercut 5.3, download to machine.
    The basic process for the router (in my case): create file in V Carve Pro (or import into V Carve from another CAD program as dxf), create G code after inputting wood parameters, tooling, speeds etc; which is all very simple (output as a .tap file - I have a Chinese router), import .tap into NC Studio (an alternative to Mach 3), click Start.
    Both are very similar processes, just with more set-up on the router as a previous poster mentioned.

    If you were going to spend the money on a laser, why not just spend the same (or perhaps less money) on a router, rather than spending time and frustration building one when you could have been up and running on a ready built machine? If your head boggled at the use of a router, why try build one? My first use of my router paid me money, no testing, no fiddling, no spending 6 months on building the machine and trying to get it right. Turn Key has great benefits.

    Regards, John
    Physically building a router does not seem overly difficult, just time consuming.

    I figured I would be forced to build one vs. buying one pre-built do to my budget ($10k).

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Souliere View Post
    The picture of the aqua box was simply to show what type of work I am looking to do.

    I am not claiming it was made by us.
    Yes, but you said in your initially posted the following :

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Souliere View Post
    The plan is to use 1/4" acrylic to make the following designs.
    I hope you aren't planning on copying the design the guy at AquaBox developed.
    Last edited by Scott Shepherd; 08-30-2014 at 9:34 AM.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  15. #45
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    I do 90% of my wok in Aspire and either output it to the CnC or export it as a dfx so the Laser can use it

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