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Thread: table saw setup

  1. #1

    table saw setup

    Just got a new to me Grizzly 1023sl. Have used the saw to make a few shelves but just got around to checking out the setup. I got a holder for my digital caliper and measured the distance to the blade. The blade is skewed to the right by .007 inches. Would anybody mess with that? If so can I adjust the table with the fence rails and table extensions still on? I am assuming that I would leave the back right bolt tight and then move the front right corner towards the blade. Any thoughts are appreciated.

    David

  2. #2
    First, be sure you're really measuring it accurately. I'd definitely invest in something like A-Line-It. Anyhow, the correct way to measure it is to measure the blade to the miter slot. Choose one side of the slot and always index everything off of that. Then, when you do the measurement, mark a tooth and always measure from that tooth...i.e. rotate the blade so that the same tooth is always on the indicator. Doing it like that takes any blade wobble or run out right out of the equation.

    When you've done that, now you can measure the fence to the miter slot using the same setup. I like to see the back of the fence a few thousandth further from the blade than the front. Dead straight is OK. Kicked out slightly is OK. Toed in is really not OK, IMHO, as it can lead to burning, kicking, binding and other maladies. I guess the idea is to kick it out just barely enough that you're absolutely sure it's not toed in

    So you always adjust the blade to the miter slot, and then adjust the fence to match. It would be a very odd circumstance to adjust a table to bring the fence into alignment, IMHO.

  3. #3
    I was referring to the blade and the miter slot. I haven't measured the fence yet. I am measuring the distance from the miter slot to the blade using a caliper holder that fits in the miter slot sold be Lee Valley and I am using the same tooth. I agree about the fence being tow out a little. My question is would you worry about the blade being .007 out of parrellel to the miter slot

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    .007 is a little excessive. I think when I was configuring my TS, I was happy at .002, been a while now.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  5. #5
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    Agree .007 is too much. On most saws the adjustment is trial and error. It goes something like "Hmm. Out by +.007. Loosen, nudge, nudge, tighten. Damn, out by -.005!" Though it is possible, it can take patience and a delicate touch to get within .001.

  6. #6
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    Agree with Steve. A rubber mallet is handy for those light taps to get it in place. Doesn't take much to nudge the table a couple thousandths.
    Measure twice, cut three times, start over. Repeat as necessary.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I was able to get my 1023RL within 0.001". It's not that hard to do on a cabinet saw.

  8. #8
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    I managed to get my PM66 to less than .001. I didn't start out to get it that close and I would have been happy with .001 or .002, but when it sorta fell into alignment like that, who was I to argue?


    Wayne

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Huston View Post
    I was referring to the blade and the miter slot. I haven't measured the fence yet. I am measuring the distance from the miter slot to the blade using a caliper holder that fits in the miter slot sold be Lee Valley and I am using the same tooth. I agree about the fence being tow out a little. My question is would you worry about the blade being .007 out of parrellel to the miter slot
    Measure to a tooth root not a tooth. I put a magic marker dot where I want to take my measurements to insure I use the same spot each time. Raise the blade to maximum height, without hitting the stops, to get the most accurate readings.Some teeth have a back bevel that makes getting a consistent reading nearly impossible. .007 is more than I would settle for. I was able to get my saw within .001. If you get the blade aligned withing .001 there is no need to have the fence tow out any amount at all. Just be sure it doesn't tow in toward the blade.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  10. #10
    Had some time to mess with saw today. Got the blade to .001 and the fence to .0005 towed out. Not messing with it anymore! Now just have to resquare my cross cut sled fence. Checked it today with the 5 cut method and it seemed to be about .008 out. Didn't have time to try and adjust hopefully later this week. Thanks for all the help.

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