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Thread: Decent square

  1. #31
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    Feb 2012
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    Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of these? I just need a cheaper version.

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941

  2. #32
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    I just went back out to the shop and actually wore my reading glasses this time. The square is 22x16. Doing the method of drawing a line and flipping it over, drawing another line with the start point the same, the long side is actually just under 3/16 off at 22" and the short side seems pretty darn close. That sure seems like a lot to off ?
    You have to remember that the longer leg will show more error because it's farther from the corner. I would think if you checked the log leg at the same length as the short leg, it would be the same...

    But sometimes I'm not allowed to think on my own!
    Funny, I don't remember being absent minded...

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Westfall View Post
    You have to remember that the longer leg will show more error because it's farther from the corner. I would think if you checked the log leg at the same length as the short leg, it would be the same...

    But sometimes I'm not allowed to think on my own!
    It's a moot point now. I tried the ball peen hammer method and had very little luck and now the outside corner an inch up on the short and long leg are not flat any more. It wouldn't move so I kept hammering a little harder each time. For a cheapie square, I sure spent more time on it than I would have thought. I suppose it's still good for drywall.

  4. #34
    So I think a better fix is to add a piece of wood to one side. To me this makes a framing square more useful in a wood shop. It is adjustable and it hooks on the edge.
    IMG_20140901_200320637.jpg

  5. #35
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    Instead of beating a square with a hammer, try it this way with a hammer and nail punch or center punch: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/bl...ng-square.aspx

    This method works perfectly. I've trued several squares with success. But banging a hammer directly on the square isn't going to work.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    One way to check a framing square at the Borg, is grab several or more and take them over to the sheet goods.Check them up to the mdf or plywood stacks.Soon you will find the bad ones and several that agree with each other.Thats how I found mine and it's not perfect but good enough for me.Aj
    That's what I did. Go to a borg with lotsa framer's squares. Grab a handful and find a flat surface. Stand 'em back to back. Keep checking 'til you find two that sit flat with no gaps or overlaps on the vertical surfaces. For them to be off, they'd have to off exactly the same amount and in opposite directions which seem unlikely to me. Something else to consider would be a large plastic drafting triangle to use as a standard to check metal squares. I've had pretty good luck with Empire brand at Home Depot for affordable squares. Lee Valley has a large stainless steel square from Japan that is supposed to be quite accurate.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Schweikert View Post
    Instead of beating a square with a hammer, try it this way with a hammer and nail punch or center punch: http://www.americanwoodworker.com/bl...ng-square.aspx

    This method works perfectly. I've trued several squares with success. But banging a hammer directly on the square isn't going to work.
    Tried that way and it did not move at all. I'm telling you, this is the square from He#l.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    That's what I did. Go to a borg with lotsa framer's squares. Grab a handful and find a flat surface. Stand 'em back to back. Keep checking 'til you find two that sit flat with no gaps or overlaps on the vertical surfaces. For them to be off, they'd have to off exactly the same amount and in opposite directions which seem unlikely to me. Something else to consider would be a large plastic drafting triangle to use as a standard to check metal squares. I've had pretty good luck with Empire brand at Home Depot for affordable squares. Lee Valley has a large stainless steel square from Japan that is supposed to be quite accurate.
    I'll do that when I go to the borg. Thanks, Sean

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of these? I just need a cheaper version.

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
    I have the 8 inch steel square, as the description indicates it can be up to 8 thousands of an inch out on the 8 inch model.

    It's a great square for woodworking...........Rod.

  10. #40
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    I have the same square. It is my favorite. I use it more often than my Starret square.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark W Pugh View Post
    Can anyone vouch for the accuracy of these? I just need a cheaper version.

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941

    http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...=1,42936,42941
    Specs say .001" per inch, as compared to .001" over the full length for the Woodpeckers version.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Troy View Post
    Tried that way and it did not move at all. I'm telling you, this is the square from He#l.
    Do you perhaps have an aluminum framing square? I have an aluminum and Steel. I gave up on adjusting the aluminum, it seems that the aluminum is too soft so when I made a divot it pooled the metal around the divot without pushing arms one way or another.
    ~Everyone has the strength, few possess the will~

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Olson View Post
    Do you perhaps have an aluminum framing square? I have an aluminum and Steel. I gave up on adjusting the aluminum, it seems that the aluminum is too soft so when I made a divot it pooled the metal around the divot without pushing arms one way or another.
    No, this one is steel

  14. #44
    I trust the one piece squares most, speed squares mostly because they are thick and unlikely to bend. I have a framing square I verified against the speed square.

    All two piece try squares I have had have gone out of square eventually, now I just consider them junk. I'd rather make my own try-square from wood.

    I must keep on and say how much I really like my speed square, I got the metric version and had to order it from the USA because we don't get them over here. It was worth the freight to have it shipped over.
    Last edited by Dennis Aspö; 09-03-2014 at 2:46 AM.

  15. #45
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    The plastic drafting triangles get a favorable mention, from time to time.

    The Staedler Mars 965 10-45 comes up often.
    You could keep it to verify the set up tools.

    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?184217-Plastic-Triangles

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