Laser Wont Fire

[Brandie Thrasher]

I got my Engraver a year ago from Rabbitlaser USA. I bought a JQ-40-6040 (40 watt). I had it about 2 months and then had to replace the power supply. I was told that this could have been damaged during shipping. They replaced it for free, and by replaced it I mean they shipped me out a new one and I installed it. Anyway, here we are still less than a year later since I replaced it and my laser engraver is doing the same thing as before.
The power turns on and it goes through all the motions of engraving and cutting but the laser isn't firing.

I was in the middle of a project, and the laser stopped firing but it completed the cycle of the project. I cleaned all the lenses and mirrors and it worked again all day yesterday. I started another project today and it did the same things that I described above. Now I cant get it to fire at all but like I said, it goes through all the motions of engraving or cutting. Please help

[AL Ursich]

Looks like I am the only one working after 9PM on a Sunday Night....

First thing that the users in the know will ask is if the door interlock magnet or switch stopped working? Don't know anything about your laser but this is a common failure... As a open door should stop the laser from firing. Some glued on magnets just drop off and it's lights out for the laser... and you find it stuck to something inside the machine.

Others will chime in with better help.... Lets hope it is as simple as a door switch.

Good Luck,

AL

[Dan Hintz]

Sounds like the power supply again (assuming you haven't noticed a drop in power recently, which would point more towards the tube). If it works when turned on but fails shortly after warming up (i.e., halfway through a project), the power supply is likely on its last leg.

[Steve Morris]

I assume its still under warranty, probably is the PSU again given that everything else works fine. Good luck

[Brandie Thrasher]

UPDATE: I checked the safety switch on the door and its fine. I emailed Rabbitlaser USA which is where I bought it from and his response was:
"The best guess is that the power supply has failed". Now he wants me to disconnect it, ship it to him to "see" if he can fix it and if not, then charge me for another one.

He said that it can fail from the following:

1. Heat

2. Over use

3. Power surge

I don't use my engraver every single day, maybe only 3 times a week and its usually only 2 hours at a time. This happened WHILE I was engraving and cutting so it wasn't a power surge, since its plugged into a surge protector that HE provided and plugged it into. The ONLY thing that I cut in my machine is 1/4 inch plywood and I know the settings ( which is the settings that he used while he was here).
This is the very same part that was replaced less than a year ago after only getting my engraver 2 months prior. His response at that time was that maybe it went bad during shipping.
Now I am unsure of what to do from here. I feel like this part should be replaced at NO cost to me with a much better explanation as to why its happening. I think my engraver is causing this, not me.

I got my Engraver a year ago from Rabbitlaser USA. I bought a JQ-40-6040 (40 watt). I had it about 2 months and then had to replace the power supply. I was told that this could have been damaged during shipping. They replaced it for free, and by replaced it I mean they shipped me out a new one and I installed it. Anyway, here we are still less than a year later since I replaced it and my laser engraver is doing the same thing as before.
The power turns on and it goes through all the motions of engraving and cutting but the laser isn't firing.

I was in the middle of a project, and the laser stopped firing but it completed the cycle of the project. I cleaned all the lenses and mirrors and it worked again all day yesterday. I started another project today and it did the same things that I described above. Now I cant get it to fire at all but like I said, it goes through all the motions of engraving or cutting. Please help

[Bill George]

Tell me how you checked the door switch? Because mine went bad and the only way I checked it was jumping out the pins on the connector.

Power supplies can go bad from a power surge from something in the past.

My other guess now is you have been perhaps running the output at 100% power to cut 1/4 inch plywood.

[Brandie Thrasher]

I have been running 1/4 inch plywood no more than at 30%. Most of the time its at 25. The door switch is something that he "built" in at the last minute because my machine didnt have that feature, which is one of my must haves. I checked where the wires are all connected together and they are all still fine. I also checked at the door switch as well and they are all connected as well with no tears or rips.

Tell me how you checked the door switch? Because mine went bad and the only way I checked it was jumping out the pins on the connector.

Power supplies can go bad from a power surge from something in the past.

My other guess now is you have been perhaps running the output at 100% power to cut 1/4 inch plywood.

[Matt McCoy]

I have been running 1/4 inch plywood no more than at 30%. Most of the time its at 25. The door switch is something that he "built" in at the last minute because my machine didnt have that feature, which is one of my must haves. I checked where the wires are all connected together and they are all still fine. I also checked at the door switch as well and they are all connected as well with no tears or rips.

Brandie: Are you are able to cut 1/4" plywood at 25-30% power on a 40 W laser?

Does the power supply have a fan?

[Bill George]

I have been running 1/4 inch plywood no more than at 30%. Most of the time its at 25. The door switch is something that he "built" in at the last minute because my machine didnt have that feature, which is one of my must haves. I checked where the wires are all connected together and they are all still fine. I also checked at the door switch as well and they are all connected as well with no tears or rips.

Looking at the wires is not checking the switch, the wires can be great and all connected correctly and the switch can be bad internally. Did you use an ohm or volt meter?

[Clark Pace]

So at my work we went through a few power supplies. Is your 220 or 110? Ours was 220 and we have to up convert our voltage to get it to run. One problem we had is the voltage at our place was actually higher than 220, it's not too uncommon, but it was a little too high and every few months our power supplies were blowing. Our voltage was around 242. We had to down convert 20 volts and since we have not had any issues.

[Steve Morris]

still sounds like a warranty to me:-

1. Heat - cooling is a design issue so down to the supplier

2. Over use - does it have a limited use time or duty cycle in the instructions (ie only use for 20 mins in each hour). If not then 100% is the most you can use it or the design is wrong

3. Power surge - if Rabbit supply the protector then its still down to them if it fails to do its job

Door switches - does the machine have a service override so you can operate with the doors open?

[Alexa Ristow]

Don't forget to check the water flow switch. My rabbitt has a flow sensor as well as a jack plug that fits into a chiller. Try shorting out the jack plug as a means of bypassing the flow sensor. The output of both goes straight to the power supply as a tube protection. No water gives no power output while the rest of the machine still runs on.

[Bill George]

Same thing happened when my door switch was bad, it would work one time and not the next. Its now bypassed with a jumper. I would not leave a water flow bypassed however.
My guess the OP has it up and running as we have not heard back from him.