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Thread: Confused: Jointer vs Planer

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Brandstetter View Post
    Thanks to everyone. I have learned a ton. I have just recently started buying "rough" 4 sided wood and obviously, using the banana theory, I kept making banana's. LOL.

    Thanks for keeping me from going to small like it seems many have done in the past. Will keep my eyes on craiglist and will get an 8 inch planer.
    That's why many of us bought combination jointer/planers, to get a 12 or 16 inch jointer and plathe same cost and space saving package.

    I have a Hammer A3-31, you should look at those and the MiniMax line of machines, money well spent..................Rod.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    That's why many of us bought combination jointer/planers, to get a 12 or 16 inch jointer and plathe same cost and space saving package.

    I have a Hammer A3-31, you should look at those and the MiniMax line of machines, money well spent..................Rod.
    True, but at a substantial uptick in the budget. Hand plane, planer sled, learn the 'joint an 8" board on a 6" planer trick', 12"+ jointer/planer. A few ways to defur the feline, pick one that suits.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    True, but at a substantial uptick in the budget. Hand plane, planer sled, learn the 'joint an 8" board on a 6" planer trick', 12"+ jointer/planer. A few ways to defur the feline, pick one that suits.
    Curt, if you can show me how to joint an eight inch board on a smaller jointer without removing the guard, I'm all for it.

    A planer sled works, however it's painfully slow.

    A hand plane, use them all the time however for most people the hand plane isn't practical.

    Regards, Rod.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Brandstetter View Post
    Thanks to everyone. I have learned a ton. I have just recently started buying "rough" 4 sided wood and obviously, using the banana theory, I kept making banana's. LOL.

    Thanks for keeping me from going to small like it seems many have done in the past. Will keep my eyes on craigslist and will get an 8 inch Jointer.
    Sorry... had to do that.

    I have a Taiwanese 6" jointer that works very well, but the beds are shorter than I'd like and sometimes I buy 8" stock which requires me to hand plane one face. If you can afford it, and have room, and can deal with mega heavy cast iron... go for the 8".

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Curt, if you can show me how to joint an eight inch board on a smaller jointer without removing the guard, I'm all for it.
    The guard needs to be removed, but the board you're face planing entirely covers the cutterhead so it, in effect, becomes your guard. Not difficult, not, IMO, nor particularly dangerous assuming the operator is paying attention, etc.

    A planer sled works, however it's painfully slow.
    True, on both counts.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Curt, if you can show me how to joint an eight inch board on a smaller jointer without removing the guard, I'm all for it.

    A planer sled works, however it's painfully slow.

    A hand plane, use them all the time however for most people the hand plane isn't practical.

    Regards, Rod.
    There was no mention of not removing the guard . People do it, I didn't endorse the idea. Frank has a point, the work covers the cutterhead completely. Just make sure that when the cutterhead exits the work all your appendages are well clear. I used the 'remove the guard and face joint a full width pass' when I had a 6" jointer. I could never get the second pass to match the first. I started using long narrow strips of plywood sort of like a planer sled. Joint one strip flat, lay that area on a strip of plywood and run the board through the planer. I didn't take heavy passes so the board didn't want to bow toward the unsupported edge. Once the opposite side was flat, flip the board over and plane the remainder of the partially face-jointed side away. This worked pretty well as long as the unjointed strip wasn't very wide. Usually it wasn't more than and inch or two. And yeah it was still time consuming.
    Last edited by Curt Harms; 09-03-2014 at 7:57 AM.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudy de haas View Post
    Two notes:

    1) Europeans often call jointers, planers. If this is part of the confusion, just keep in mind that American usage differentiates the two machines by usage: one flattens one side, the other makes the opposite side parallel.

    2) 6" versus 8" depends on what you do and how efficiently you want to do it. Most (not all) 6" jointers have less power and precision than 8" units and are harder to work with even for boards under 6" wide. Most importantly, when you find yourself with a 7" board, you can't easily paste another inch on the side of your 6" jointer, but you can joint a 5" board on an 8" jointer. Basically the extra money buys you a better, more flexible, machine that places fewer limits on your future choices.

    +1

    They call our jointers planers and

    our planers are call thicknessers.

    Jim
    One can never have too many planes and chisels... or so I'm learning!!

  8. #23
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    It is not difficult to joint/flatten a board that is wider than the jointer. The explanation is longer than the process.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    True, but at a substantial uptick in the budget. Hand plane, planer sled, learn the 'joint an 8" board on a 6" planer trick', 12"+ jointer/planer. A few ways to defur the feline, pick one that suits.
    If you have a hand plane you can lose the planer sled, hand plane one face and edge then through the planer it goes. A scrub plane makes quick work of nasty jointing duties.

  10. #25
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    When I described what a planer and a jointer do to my wife, she commented that the jointer name made sense, but the planer should be called a "paralleler". In our shop it has been so named ever since!
    but I do like the banana analogy too!

    Mike

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Heaney View Post
    When I described what a planer and a jointer do to my wife, she commented that the jointer name made sense, but the planer should be called a "paralleler". In our shop it has been so named ever since!
    but I do like the banana analogy too!

    Mike
    Interesting, when I think of a plane, I think of it a straight surface. That's also what a hand plane produces.

    A planer (in North America) doesn't produce a plane, it produces a parallel.

    So Planer best describes a jointer, and thicknesser best describes a planer.

    Regards, Rod.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    I used the 'remove the guard and face joint a full width pass' when I had a 6" jointer. I could never get the second pass to match the first.
    You won't, the side face-jointed that way will always be a little irregular where the two cuts meet but that's okay because all you're after is a face flat and straight enough to provide a reference surface when you put the board through the planer, where a little irregularity on the face down won't affect anything; once the top face is planed to your liking, you turn the board over and clean up the face-jointed side.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mik Rian
    It is not difficult to joint/flatten a board that is wider than the jointer. The explanation is longer than the process.
    Quite right; there's probably a youtube video showing just how to do it.

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