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Thread: chair design

  1. #1

    chair design

    So I finally found a Morris chair design I think I could manage. It uses pocket hole screws to hold it together. Mortise and tenon may be the best but are beyond my ability.
    http://www.thedesignconfidential.com...d-morris-chair
    I would like someone's opinion if this would be sturdy enough for normal use. I would probably construct it out of maple. I don't have a Kreg tool yet but I know where they are sold not too far away at Keim lumber. Mary

  2. #2
    You have to do what you have to do, and I built many a pocket-screw table a couple years back, so this is not coming from snobbery: I think pocket hole screws will be weak for chair joints. If this were a knock-together chair, it might not matter; but if you are taking the time to build the Morris, I'd opt for stronger joinery's insurance of longevity. If you cannot use M&T, do you have a plunge router? Slip tenons are a little easier to master.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    You could also route a groove to hold the slats,
    and fill the spaces between with small blocks.

    As Prashun intimated, glue will be stronger than screws.

  4. #4
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    Since pocket screws are not a conventional way to build a Morris Chair may I suggest changing the design a bit just to be more secure/stable while still using screws and glue?

    My idea is to pull the front and back rails in to the inside face of the legs so that they can be face screwed and glued to the legs. Let thenm overlay the inside leg edge at least 1" (more if possible) and pre bore all your holes. The side rails can then be set using pocket screws into the legs as shown but they will also register against the ends of the front and back rails. More glue surface and also another option for using face screws - through the side rails into the end grain of the front/back rails. Also could add a corner block at each junction for more glue and screw surface.

    None of these ideas are conventional chair build techniques and there are lots of tried and true traditional techniques that would certainly make for a better chair. BUT - having said that I say - go for it. You will have fun. You will learn stuff. You will have started a woodworking data base of your own as to how good (or not) pocket screws can be in such applications. AND - You will have a chair built by you.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  5. #5
    I don't think pocket screws hold up well over time in high stress areas. Lots of kitchen cabinets are built with pocket screws in low stress joints, so that is the type of application they have proven suitable for over time. The floating mortise and tenon can be cut with a router, and tenon stock can be cut many different ways depending on what tools you have available. This mortise jig is good, easy to use, and I think they even sell tenon stock: http://www.mortisepal.com/
    Add a mid-size plunge router, and you're in business. Cut a couple test joints in scrap, 1/4" depth increments, and you'll have it figured out.

  6. #6
    OK, pocket screws are out. Looking at Beadlock system from Rockler for slip tenons. Looks like something
    I might be able to handle. Yes I have a router but I don't like using it. I can't control it. Have to go to town to
    watch the video on the Rockler site. Has anyone used this jig and liked it? I'm looking at the basic 3/8 one, not the pro. Mary

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mary heil View Post
    OK, pocket screws are out. Looking at Beadlock system from Rockler for slip tenons. Looks like something
    I might be able to handle. Yes I have a router but I don't like using it. I can't control it. Have to go to town to
    watch the video on the Rockler site. Has anyone used this jig and liked it? I'm looking at the basic 3/8 one, not the pro. Mary
    Hi Mary,

    I tried the beadlock system and the mortise pal. While I prefer the Mortise Pal the beadlock system is certainly serviceable. The beadlock system has less flexibility on sizes and how it clamps and I didn't like having to buy tenon stock from From Rockler. You can buy a router bit to make your own stock but it was prety expensive.

    In the end, I found I preferred the Mortise pal and went with that. The kit at Lee Valley comes with an extra template too. These are my personal preferences but I do agree that the Beadlock system is easy to use with a drill, it is really portable and much stronger than pocket screws.

    Remember that chairs take more abuse than any other piece of furniture that I can think of.
    Gary

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