The Unisaw Chronicles, Chapter 2 (Long...)

[Sam Chambers]

Chapter 2
Part 1: Parts & Plugs
(In case you missed Chapter 1, here it is.)

The switch arrived from Grizzly just a few days after placing the order. Upon opening the box and finding no instruction sheet ( ), I knew I needed some help. Enter my new e-mail pal, Dev Emch! Dev very patiently explained it all to me, and after e-mailing a number of photos to him, I had the switch wired. Again, Dev, many thanks for all your help. Good news: The switch was wired. Bad news: No 220v power to plug it into.

Last Friday, July 1, saw the arrival of two important things. First, a big brown truck brought a little brown box from Delta that contained most of the missing parts for my Unisaw. What missing parts, you might ask? The obvious ones were a handwheel and the dust chute, plus lots of little screws, washers, etc. The only things I haven't received yet are the two lock knobs, which are still on backorder. It only took a few minutes to install all the parts, and I had a mostly completed Unisaw.

A few hours later, my electrician buddy arrived to install my 220v outlet. Once he was done, I plugged the beast in, hit the switch (from a distance, using a long-ish dowel) and..and...

It's Alive!!

It did wobble a bit on the mobile base, but I was too excited to care. My biggest fear - a DOA motor - was erased.


Part 2: Time for a Tune-Up

With that major hurdle behind me, I started the adjustment process. First, I decided to check the runout at the arbor flange with my dial indicator, which showed about 0.001" of runout. Looking good so far.

The blade was out of parallel with the miter slot by about 1/64", so I loosened the 4 allen-head bolts and started tapping things toward where they should be. Using the dial indicator again, I got it to within 0.0015" (See the photo below, showing the dial indicator at both ends of my Freud Calibration Disc.) I started in this hobby on a Shopsmith and soon became completely frustrated at the difficulty in aligning the main table. Then I upgraded to a Delta Contractor's Saw, which wasn't any easier until I discovered the PALS system from In-Line Industries. After those two saws, it was really nice to be able to align the Unisaw in just a few minutes, and have it stay aligned when I tightened down the bolts.

The 90-degree and 45-degree stops were set perfectly, so no more adjusting for now.


Part 3: Don't Fence Me In

With the saw body adjusted, I started the rather finicky process of installing my Jointech Saw Train. That's not a slam on Jointech - it's just that these precision fence systems must be set up exactly right if they're going to work right, and that takes time and patience. Lucky for me it was a long holiday weekend. My Saw Train has 6 ft. rails, and on the Contractor's Saw I had a long right hand extension table with a router plate. The thing is, that's not the most convenient place for the router table to be, especially in my 13' x 27' shop. So this time, I decided to put the router in a left-hand extension, and sacrifice a bit of cutting capacity to the right. That's really not a problem, since I have several lengths of Saw Train rails left over, and I plan on building removable extension tables that I'll slap on there when I need them.

When I bought the Unisaw, I picked up a scratch-&-dent extension table for $25. Unfortunately, it was made by Powermatic for a Model 66, which has a deeper table than the Unisaw, so I had t cut it down. I went to the trouble to cut some plywood strips to support the newly cut edge, and then remembered that it's easier to install a 3/4" thick table on the Saw Train rails, so I took it all off. It took me about 6 hours to install the rails and the table board, making sure the rails were exactly parallel.

Installing the rest of the Saw Train system (The Clincher and the Smart Fence) went pretty smoothly, and I eventually got it dialed in.

I pulled out a phenolic zero-clearance insert that I bought a few years ago, and started to install that. Unfortunately, it was warped - dipped in the middle about 1/32". I installed it anyway, but I'll need to make some more out of MDF once I get the router table built and installed.

Oh, I almost forgot...I picked up a Delta Drop-in Splitter at Redmond for $10, and I installed that too. Piece of cake once I realized that the instruction sheet is for a right-tilt saw, and I had to assemble everything backwards! (See photo.)

So, what's next? Assemble my new Grr-Rippers and install the MicroJig splitter. Then build and install the router table extension, install the extension on the mobile base to support the right-hand table, make some zero clearance inserts. Maybe I'll get it all done this weekend...maybe I won't. But I'm sure having fun with my new toy!

For the photo cops:

[Dan Stuewe]

Looks great Sam. You'll be "loaded for bear" for many years to come? One question though, if you have the delta splitter, why the microjig splitter?

[Chris Padilla]

Good stuff, Sam!

[Sam Chambers]

Dan:

I got the Delta splitter for bevel cuts. The MicroJig splitter doesn't tilt with the blade, so it's only good for 90-degree cuts.

[Jim DeLaney]

Dan:

I got the Delta splitter for bevel cuts. The MicroJig splitter doesn't tilt with the blade, so it's only good for 90-degree cuts.

I encountered an interesting problem with the MicroJig splitter. I was sawing a piece of what turned out to be 'reaction wood.' The board sprung inward beyond the cut, closing the kerf and pinching the MJ splitter. It then pulled the splitter out of the insert.

Now, actually, the splitter did do its job, by holding the kerf open, but the problem is that the legs on the splitter are deformed and it will no longer stay in the insert, so I need to get another one.

Since I also have the Delta splitter, I think I'll give up on the MJ and just use the Delta exclusively. The main use for the MJ was that it's more compatible with their push blocks. I'm thinking I'll just make a short version of the Delta (sans pawls) out of aluminum, and use that with the MJ push blocks.

[Sam Chambers]

Jim:

Thanks. I saw your thread and the one Dennis posted with MicroJig's reply. The only problem I had with my MicroJig splitter yesterday is that it was too loose in the holes and came out very easily. The may hve been a result of poor drilling technique on my part. I'm going to be making several more throat plates, and this time I'll use my drill press to drill the holes.