Cherry BurlPrep

[David Delo]

Anyone care to give some advice on how to prepare this for turning? I'm thinking, trim the bark off the burl and inspect for cracks etc. etc. If it looks and feels sound I guess there's a couple possibilities. Cut it as if I was going to make 2 bowls (just like a regular log/bowl) process or just do a large hollow form out of the entire piece after cutting the ends off the log. Log is 33" long, around 10" diameter with the burl of 5" to 7" around the entire log. Burl is right around 20" long. Piece was cut 1 year ago. My Dad picked it up for me from a friend as a birthday present so I'm kind of in gloat-land right now. Just want to approach the prep correctly the first time.

So, I'm seeing 1 HF or 2 bowls. More bowls if I cored it. Anyone see it differently? Thanks in advance.

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[Richard Golde]

I'm big on burl bowls. They have such character. Cut them down the pith and use the burl for the bottom so you don't turn the burl away. If your lucky you may get a void or two. Now thats real character.

[John Thorson]

Expanding on Richard's post above - the burl is effectively wrapped around the main trunk in these photos. It probably wont have much figure in the center so the suggestion is to identify the bowls you would make based on the biggest 'burl clump' you can feel confident will have good figure. Turn away the center and manage the inner and outer surfaces to maximize the highly figured grain. Good luck.

[David Delo]

Thanks for your input Rich & John. Think I'm going to stew on this a few days and examine this piece a little more closely for tenon location. Thinking might get a +/- 15" bowl out of the one side and would like to get a vase and small bowl out of the other side. Not going to slice & dice until I'm ready to cut.

[Dirk Hoogendoorn]

David, when I look at those pictures there appears to me to be a number of "strings" of burls around the circumference as it were. A while back I did have one of those and trying to make a bowl from that can be real challenging as the burlwood does not connect well. I think you are wise to study that a little longer and see if, when you cut into it that you get the best use and effect from the burl. Enjoy the project.

[Bob Bergstrom]

I don't know your skill level, but burls can be turned with the pith in the bottom also. You must be able to turn air if the pith is in the bottom. It will have a natural edge, and less likely to have voids. It will be much more of a platter than bowl. If the burl is turned with the pith at the top the rim is more likely to be full of close to it. It will be a deeper bowl, but may have voids in the sides and bottom. Here is one with the pith on the bottom. I turned most of the straight gran pin off the bottom when I was turning it between centers. Which ever you choose, make sure to balance the piece as even as possible. This an white oak burl with the pith on the bottom.

[David Delo]

I don't know your skill level, but burls can be turned with the pith in the bottom also. You must be able to turn air if the pith is in the bottom. It will have a natural edge, and less likely to have voids. It will be much more of a platter than bowl. If the burl is turned with the pith at the top the rim is more likely to be full of close to it. It will be a deeper bowl, but may have voids in the sides and bottom. Here is one with the pith on the bottom. I turned most of the straight gran pin off the bottom when I was turning it between centers. Which ever you choose, make sure to balance the piece as even as possible. This an white oak burl with the pith on the bottom.

Bob & Dirk,Thanks for your pointers. Appreciate your response.I not a beginner but certainly not an advanced turner either. My touch with the bowl gouge is getting better and better every time I turn. Not really worried about push, pull or shear scraping cuts. My touch is getting better evidenced by less and less sanding For each piece I do. However, I realize this type of piece will be the biggest challenge I've ever attempted but I'm really looking forward to climbing this mountain.Never turned a burl before but I know it's going to be some hard stuff. I've turned honey locust and osage orange before but I'm guessing this burl wood might be even harder so sharp tools are a must. Haven't decided on a definite course of action yet but here's what I'm thinking right now since I really want to see if one side of this log will yield a nice size bowl.1.) The burl is 5" to 7" thick around the log but very irregular. So, first cuts taken would be to smooth the surface out attempting to locate a spot where a tenon could be machined. The burl does have a low spot on one side as it wraps around the log. Got my fingers crossed that the good tenon location matches up well with the low spot so that it would make a good spot to rip the log in half. Everything goes out the window if I can't find a spot to put a good sized tenon. Maybe I have 600 hidden pen blanks in that log......who knows.2.) Not going to do anything until I can get some time to do it all at the same time. Figure that will reduce the chance of cracking in the 2nd or 3rd piece. Getting a huge chunk of time is a problem right now.

[Bob Bergstrom]

Best part of burls is the the grain direction and tear out are not the problems they are in normal blanks. The piece I posted had considerable punky sap wood. Soaked with watered down wood glue and some patching with shavings and super glue. When done, the grain is so strong that most never notice the filled areas.B

[Gus Dundon]

That's a beautiful burl. Excellent design and execution.

[Roger Chandler]

I just picked up 3 similar looking burls to those yesterday.......also cherry.......they might be a bit bigger than yours in the pic. Mine might be older and not in as good a shape either.........I have been thinking about how to cut mine up as well, so I am listening with both ears!