Need bandsaw blade advice please.

[Jack Gaskins]

First issue;

I sold my small 14" bs and purchased a used Minimax MM20. I mostly make woodturning projects with very little flat work but wanted a large saw to handle log chunks/blocks. Eventually I do plan on getting into Box making though so keep that in mind. For wood processing, I initially cut up the log into small square-ish blocks using my chainsaw then wax and stack to dry. Most of my wood stash is dry so initially the blade will be used on dry wood. I have all sizes with my largest pieces being 12-15 inches square-ish by 6 inches thick. I need a blade or blades that will allow me to square up all sides then slab off a small section for turning. Im kind of OCD so would like a blade that leaves a smoother finish rather than rough sawn. I have read a lot of blade posts and just gets kinda confusing after reading all the suggestions but no one I have come across use their bandsaw like I would use mine as most use the MM20 strictly for resawing veneer.

Second issue;
The MM20 I purchased came with a 1.5 or 2tpi by 3/4ths wide blade and it chewed the crap out of the tires. How do I prevent a new blade of chewing up the new tires I just installed? Since it is a flat wheel do you put the teeth over the front edge of the wheel?

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Thanks for the help.
Jack

[Jamie Buxton]

I suggest a Lenox Woodmaster CT in the 1" 1.3 tpi flavor. It is carbide-tipped, so it is long-lived. The initial price is higher than standard steel blades, but the long-term cost is lower than steel. The quality of cut is much better than a chainsaw; when I cut veneer, I glue down the cut face without any further processing.
When you put it on the saw, hang the teeth off the front edge of the flat wheel.

[Matt Day]

I know you said you're kind of OCD, but if you're turning a piece why worry about blade marks? Sorry, no suggestion on blade as I need to do some homework on this as well (though not for your application exactly).

I think jamie is right and that you're blade is to far forward on the wheels.

[Sean Troy]

1/2 " 3 or 4 tpi hook Timber Wolf blade is what I've always used for cutting up turning wood.

[Jerry Miner]

Second issue;
The MM20 I purchased came with a 1.5 or 2tpi by 3/4ths wide blade and it chewed the crap out of the tires. How do I prevent a new blade of chewing up the new tires I just installed? Since it is a flat wheel do you put the teeth over the front edge of the wheel?

Yes, since it is a flat wheel, the teeth should hang over the edge. From the manual:

5- Insert blade on tires, adjust so teeth are
just barely protruding beyond outside edge
of tires (teeth should point downward
toward table, if not turn blade inside out)

[Jack Gaskins]

Second issue;
The MM20 I purchased came with a 1.5 or 2tpi by 3/4ths wide blade and it chewed the crap out of the tires. How do I prevent a new blade of chewing up the new tires I just installed? Since it is a flat wheel do you put the teeth over the front edge of the wheel?

Yes, since it is a flat wheel, the teeth should hang over the edge. From the manual:

5- Insert blade on tires, adjust so teeth are
just barely protruding beyond outside edge
of tires (teeth should point downward
toward table, if not turn blade inside out)

Thanks. Need to go download the manual since saw did not come with one.

[Jack Gaskins]

I know you said you're kind of OCD, but if you're turning a piece why worry about blade marks? Sorry, no suggestion on blade as I need to do some homework on this as well (though not for your application exactly).

I think jamie is right and that you're blade is to far forward on the wheels.

Some will be turned some will not, some are future blanks for jewelry boxes.

[Jack Gaskins]

I suggest a Lenox Woodmaster CT in the 1" 1.3 tpi flavor. It is carbide-tipped, so it is long-lived. The initial price is higher than standard steel blades, but the long-term cost is lower than steel. The quality of cut is much better than a chainsaw; when I cut veneer, I glue down the cut face without any further processing.
When you put it on the saw, hang the teeth off the front edge of the flat wheel.

Dang, the WMCT is three times more than the WM B that someone recommended to me. Man that's a lot of dough....

[Jim Andrew]

If you have a local shop that sharpens saw blades, they can order bandsaw blades. My local saw shop is much cheaper than ordering online. Or from the mailorder companies.

[Max Neu]

With my 24" Laguna,I have tried several blade types,and I have come to the conclsion that a 1/2" 3 TPI will do anything I need (except a really tight radius).I would start with that,and if you aren't satisfied,you can alway's try more expensive blades later.

[Curt Harms]

I'm certainly no bandsaw guru but here's what I think (not what I know). Blades with less set produce a smoother finish and thinner kerf. Carbide bandsaw blades have brazed on teeth that are wider than the blade so don't require any set to produce a kerf wider than the blade. That's part of the reason a carbide blade produces a smoother cut, no 'scratches' from set teeth. You can get steel blades with less set. There are a few vendors that sell blades made from stock originally made for the meat processing trade. Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking, Iturra sells one - bladerunner? , Spectrum Supply calls theirs kerfmaster. Supercut Bandsaw sells some blades that are designed for resawing. They produce kerfs little wider than the blade so presumably have little set and should produce a pretty smooth cut. Their woodsaver plus has a .025" band and they claim .030" kerf.

If you're cutting bandsaw boxes, don't they require some fairly tight curves? A wider blade with little set isn't going to work well there. A narrower blade with high tooth count should produce a pretty smooth surface I'd think. How narrow a blade will a MM20 run? Carter makes a guide they call their saw blade stabilizer. They certainly ain't cheap - around $80 for one bearing with a slot machined into it but they apparently do work with narrow blades & tight curves.

[Myk Rian]

You can always clamp a blade in a vise to smash the set out of the teeth.

[Jack Gaskins]

With my 24" Laguna,I have tried several blade types,and I have come to the conclsion that a 1/2" 3 TPI will do anything I need (except a really tight radius).I would start with that,and if you aren't satisfied,you can alway's try more expensive blades later.

During my break at work I surfed the internet (well maybe it was an extended break), anyway I ran across a post that some stated the same thing. They used several blades from three different manufactures and kept going back to a Bimetal 1/2 by 3 TPI blade. Someone also suggested I try the Woodmaster B by Lenox.

[Jack Gaskins]

I'm certainly no bandsaw guru but here's what I think (not what I know). Blades with less set produce a smoother finish and thinner kerf. Carbide bandsaw blades have brazed on teeth that are wider than the blade so don't require any set to produce a kerf wider than the blade. That's part of the reason a carbide blade produces a smoother cut, no 'scratches' from set teeth. You can get steel blades with less set. There are a few vendors that sell blades made from stock originally made for the meat processing trade. Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking, Iturra sells one - bladerunner? , Spectrum Supply calls theirs kerfmaster. Supercut Bandsaw sells some blades that are designed for resawing. They produce kerfs little wider than the blade so presumably have little set and should produce a pretty smooth cut. Their woodsaver plus has a .025" band and they claim .030" kerf.

If you're cutting bandsaw boxes, don't they require some fairly tight curves? A wider blade with little set isn't going to work well there. A narrower blade with high tooth count should produce a pretty smooth surface I'd think. How narrow a blade will a MM20 run? Carter makes a guide they call their saw blade stabilizer. They certainly ain't cheap - around $80 for one bearing with a slot machined into it but they apparently do work with narrow blades & tight curves.

No bandsaw boxes. I will be making regular jewelry and knickknack boxes but will be resawing short thick pieces of wood into short planks for the box material so I can use up my wood stash as it is getting out of control and taking up a lot of space. Now if I had a smaller saw then I would look at the carter stabilizer for sure as I have read they work well.

[Jack Gaskins]

You can always clamp a blade in a vise to smash the set out of the teeth.

Well, im not to worried about the set as long as it isn't real aggressive. I'm not a production woodworker/turner so not in a hurry when sawing wood.